5th gen lower ball joint write up

[caper]

Couldn't find anything on a 5th gen so i did a half azz write up, started by taking off lower joint holder.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

One picture and zero details is not a write up.............

 

[caper]

thanks captin obvious , im having difficulty doin it through my phone

 

[Antman]

thanks captin obvious , im having difficulty doin it through my phone

Lolol

 

[caper]

holder removed

 

[caper]

otc press installed but could not move it . Runner lives in most corrosive enviroment on earth parked 100 feet from ocean so salt air is always present and copous amounts of road salt all winter

 

[RCFJ]

thanks captin obvious , im having difficulty doin it through my phone

Lol, please do continue your write up.

 

[caper]

decided to remove a arm and use hyd press but couldnt get a arm out due to the sleve being frozen in bushing and didnt want to mess it up as new arms were 3 days away at a cost of $500 each

 

[caper]

this little bugger here only thing keeping a arm in

 

[caper]

so with a little heat 3/4 drive power handle and snipe and some good wacks on c clamp from this position it gave way finally , it needed the hammer blows to come free and this position is the only way to get a good swing at c clamp, it just laughed at the 1/2 air impact gun on c clamp

 

[caper]

out with it

 

[caper]

in with the new , splicer life time warrenty , the inpact even had a hard time pressin this one in and as i read some where before with moogs the snap ring slot doent come out enough to get ring on , this was also the case with these the barrell is just a thou too short so we ground a little off the snap ring to get it in the groove , and yes it was pressed in as far as it will go trust me , also remember to orientate grease nipple in correct location before pressing in .

 

[caper]

shes in and arm back together , remember to only torque a arm bolts when full vehicle weight is on them if you loosin bolts for any reason ,and of course i marked the cams before dropping the a arm , i was due for an alligment anyways so took er in to get it done and they didnt even have to adjust it again , got the otherside without droping arm just a little longer snipe , bigger hammer and it might not of been rusted as bad but still took alot of force to get it to start moving.

 

[caper]

that concludes this write up only 90k km on this never off road , if it was rust free its a nice eazy job , hour per side i would say total start to finish . Add rust and that goes right out the window .Torqued everything to spec , also installed new sway bar end links while i was there , lifetime warrenty ones , org ones were sloppy and had play

 

[dirtman]

Many thanks!

Thanks. I hav been needing to do this on my 2010 SR5 and I too live in a corrosive place. I happen to live in the rainiest place in the US and it also happens to have the salty sea air.
How long did this actually take you? I’m trying to get a general idea of how much time I need to set aside. This also happens to be my only car right now so I don’t want to have issues before I get started. Thanks!

 

[shrub1]

Thanks. I hav been needing to do this on my 2010 SR5 and I too live in a corrosive place. I happen to live in the rainiest place in the US and it also happens to have the salty sea air.
How long did this actually take you? I’m trying to get a general idea of how much time I need to set aside. This also happens to be my only car right now so I don’t want to have issues before I get started. Thanks!

He advised 1 hour per side in his write up.

 

[STX4Runner]

That's interesting. I thought I remembered hearing these were permanent installations, and you'd have to get an entire new LCA if the ball joint ever goes bad.

 

[caper]

He advised 1 hour per side in his write up.

1 hour with no rust I mentioned , had 2-3 hours in per side , make sure you have big snipes , ocy/act , big hammers ,3/4 drive power handle , etc before even thinking about doing it

 

[Xtremluck]

That's interesting. I thought I remembered hearing these were permanent installations, and you'd have to get an entire new LCA if the ball joint ever goes bad.

Most people go this route because the time wasted and frustration of trying to pop out the ball joints from a LCA arent worth it

 

[caper]

Most people go this route because the time wasted and frustration of trying to pop out the ball joints from a LCA arent worth it

In my case it would of been $1000 for 2 factory LCA with a dirty ,greasy 1 year warranty , and I still would of had to buy cam bolts and sleeves etc because I would of destroyed them taking the LCA off .

I'm into this for $120 for both sides with a lifetime warranty , and they will be easy (or easier ) to remove next time cause I anti seized the s&#t out of everything , they should just come out with the 1/2 impact next time without unbolting the LCA

( only unbolted it to try and use hyd press , got the other side without unbolting and would of got the first one too if I had put more effort into it instead of trying to take easy way out with hyd press )

its a no brainer somewhat to install aftermarket , just for the cost and warranty

Also they are greaseable , I love flushing them out with new grease often , ensuring there are no contaminants in there unlike guessing with the factory ones

And no alliginment needed if ya don't replace LCA's , more cost savings BONUS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!