5th Gen Tailpipe redirect add second, rear anchor/recovery point

[Boyds4Runner]

I have seen this done on the 4th gen site and [MENTION=127657]codyHTX[/MENTION] posted his 5th gen on the "what did you do..." Thread. Just thought I would post a dedicated thread on bending the tailpipe 90 degrees out to the passenger side.

Went to my local Midas Muffler shop where they do all kinds of work and did this for me with no appointment and in about an hour. Nothing fancy, just wanted the tail pipe out the side and no fancy tip since it will probably get scraped on a rock or two. Also did it to avoid the hot-exhaust air getting into the cabin when I drive with the rear window down.

Where the pipe was cut:

Welded a mount point to frame so that if the pipe hits a rock it won't bend up into the passenger side rear lower quarter panel.

Finished item. I spray painted it black with Rustoleum High Heat flat black paint but I did that after the picture.

I also cut a bit of the upside-down fin coming out from behind the mudflap so the tail pipe doesn't touch or bang into it.

I drove in with all of the windows down and I was getting hot air and exhaust from the back. Once the bend was in I couldn't get the grin off of my face. Absolutely NO hot exhaust air coming in at all! It was actually much cooler in the truck.
[MENTION=127657]codyHTX[/MENTION] posted the part numbers for the recovery point:
51095-60030 for the loop
91642-81235 for the bolt w/washer (need to get two of those)

Thanks for that [MENTION=127657]codyHTX[/MENTION]

When I get those on I will post a follow up.

Finally, I found a 2008 at a local junk yard and got the loop and bolts for $50.00. The bolts were a bit too rusted for my taste and some of the threading was flattened out some how. I bought new bolts from the dealer but they were silver and not exactly the same but they worked.

Asked at the dealer about the torque spec. They could not find it in their TIS but the master mechanic said the 17mm bolts get 90ft/lbs.

So on they went

Torqued down to 90ft/lbs

Painted with Rustoleum high heat flat black.

All set. There was some rust on the loop from the 2008 4Runner but I just scraped as much as I could off and sprayed over it with the Rustoleum.

With the exhaust moved to the side the cabin gets nice air flow with the rear window down. An added benefit is that when sitting at the rear with the car running there is no hot exhaust to burn shins or feet back there.

Additional tow hook should allow more flexible options for pulling or getting pulled.

Another mod to make me wonder why it wasn't like that in the first place? Or is Toyota opting to give us things to do on our own? I'm sure the extra tow hook wasn't thought of since they are building a street legal vehicle and why waste money on a part that most consumers won't need. The exhaust pipe though...engineers must have known that with a roll-down rear window, exhaust would be drawn into the cabin?



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[MTP_Vader]

Was there a significant amount of exhaust coming in the rear window prior to your side exhaust mod? I'm noticing a "burning" smell coming in when going up long hills (maybe just high revs) and am having a tough time identifying the cause or even the type of smell. It's a 2015 with only 10,000 kms on it so I'm at a loss figuring out the smell. It's definitely not sulfur smelling.

 

[BLACK-FL4RUNNER]

That's more of a tie down hook.
I wouldn't use it to pull or snatch on, you'll rip your bumper up.

 

[KingTaco]

[MENTION=3442]Boyds4Runner[/MENTION] How much did they charge you for the exhaust material/labor? I'm in Annapolis, and have been meaning to do this. Midas on West Street?

Thanks!

 

[nb rob]

Was there a significant amount of exhaust coming in the rear window prior to your side exhaust mod? I'm noticing a "burning" smell coming in when going up long hills (maybe just high revs) and am having a tough time identifying the cause or even the type of smell. It's a 2015 with only 10,000 kms on it so I'm at a loss figuring out the smell. It's definitely not sulfur smelling.

its coming in the rear window, if you have it down. Turning the exhaust out the side will decrease that a lot.

Going up long hills makes it very noticeable.

 

[STX4Runner]

That's more of a tie down hook.
I wouldn't use it to pull or snatch on, you'll rip your bumper up.

This is a myth that just won't die. That loop is bolted to the frame. It's fine to use as a recovery point. Also, he's got a TRD Pro with the higher clearance rear bumper than an SR5 or Limited, and after the 2014 refresh SR5s now have higher clearance bumpers just like Trails, so he won't destroy them in a recovery.

No matter the recovery point on any vehicle, you shouldn't have the pulling vehicle violently yank the stuck vehicle. If you feel like you have to do that to get unstuck, you need to stop and think about your situation for a minute and figure something else out.

 

[1engineer]

I drove in with all of the windows down and I was getting hot air and exhaust from the back. Once the bend was in I couldn't get the grin off of my face. Absolutely NO hot exhaust air coming in at all! It was actually much cooler in the truck.


Asked at the dealer about the torque spec. They could not find it in their TIS but the master mechanic said the 17mm bolts get 90ft/lbs.

OP, just for future reference, bolt torque is not determined by bolt head size, but material grade, thread diameter and thread length of engagement. here is a reference The Nuts and Bolts of Specifying Fastener Torque | Archive content from Machine Design.

If it is hot outside and you have your rear window down you will get hot air inside, regardless of where the exhaust is. There is not enough volume of exhaust gases to appreciably increase the air temperature entering the cab through the back window. What you won't get is the sulfur smell of the catalytic converter if your exhaust is turned out on the side as you did.

 

[BLACK-FL4RUNNER]

This is a myth that just won't die. That loop is bolted to the frame.

I'm not questioning the strength of the loop, just the likely angle needed for a recovery. Most vehicles sink into whatever they are stuck in, be it mud/sand/snow, and the vehicle doing the recovery is usually on equal or higher ground. It's great to add another rear recovery point though!

 

[1engineer]

I'm not questioning the strength of the loop, just the likely angle needed for a recovery. Most vehicles sink into whatever they are stuck in, be it mud/sand/snow, and the vehicle doing the recovery is usually on equal or higher ground. It's great to add another rear recovery point though!

Think of it like this: Very seldom do you ever make a straight, level pull from a recovery point. Let's say the 4Runner went over a hill with the ass end up. Then the loop the OP shows is perfect. If it is stuck with the ass end down, a loop in the opposite direction would be better. My point is there is never a perfect recovery point because loads and fastener points will always be less than optimal and rarely level and straight.

 

[STX4Runner]

I'm not questioning the strength of the loop, just the likely angle needed for a recovery. Most vehicles sink into whatever they are stuck in, be it mud/sand/snow, and the vehicle doing the recovery is usually on equal or higher ground. It's great to add another rear recovery point though!

OK. Good. I just get tired of everyone questioning the strength of the loops provided. I agree. With the placement of the loops you have to be careful not to damage the bumper in a recovery.

 

[Boyds4Runner]

OP, just for future reference, bolt torque is not determined by bolt head size, but material grade, thread diameter and thread length of engagement. here is a reference The Nuts and Bolts of Specifying Fastener Torque | Archive content from Machine Design.

If it is hot outside and you have your rear window down you will get hot air inside, regardless of where the exhaust is. There is not enough volume of exhaust gases to appreciably increase the air temperature entering the cab through the back window. What you won't get is the sulfur smell of the catalytic converter if your exhaust is turned out on the side as you did.

I feel honored to have been referred to directly by [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] :third:

Thank you for the link, I understand that the torque is determined by the material of the bolt, thread diameter etc. Just putting in there what they told me when they couldn't find it in their computer. Could be BS from the Master Mechanic but I don't know enough to fight them on it either way. The bolts haven't sheared on me while putting them on and cranking it to 90. I hope my laziness doesn't come back to haunt me that I don't feel compelled to unbolt them to see if they have stretched. I'll have to take this one on faith.

In reference to the exhaust, I would sometimes get the mixed wafts of temperature and smell when the rear window was down and my girls would complain of getting a headache in the back. Since the re-direction there just doesn't seem to be a sense of as much exhaust or smell coming back into the cabin giving the dominant illusion of "fresh" air coming in from the back. I'm sure some is still getting in, just truly less of it the majority of the time.

 

[Boyds4Runner]

[MENTION=3442]Boyds4Runner[/MENTION] How much did they charge you for the exhaust material/labor? I'm in Annapolis, and have been meaning to do this. Midas on West Street?

Thanks!

Sent a PM with details. $156.36 out the door.

I know most others have gotten it for half that but considering where we live and my lack of tools and skills for that job I believe it is fair.