5W-20 or 5W-30...?

[sport2004]

2004 Sport V6 4 WD, with 100K, mid-western climate

OK, I've been looking this over for a while. The fill cap says 30. Last October Toyota sent me an email advising 30. The dealer said 20 in a synthetic blend. I see many say when changing the oil on their own, swear by Mobil 1 (full synthetic).

I've seen some data sheets indicating in 2008, or so, Toyota indicates 20 or 30. I saw where Toyota may be advising 20 due to emission and mileage standards.

Right now I run premium gasoline and get 19-20 mpg on the expressway, with all stock everything (for now).

Any insight or references to existing thread(s) welcome...thanks.

 

[ZebRuaj]

From my readings, the change over to the thinner 20wt was for EPA and MPG's. The 5th gens are all spec'd for 20wt I believe.

With how old our motors are by now, I stick to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule of thumb.

 

[m85476585]

I used 0W20 for a while, and I didn't see much of a change in mileage from 5W30. I don't doubt it helps, but it probably saves you less than 1 mpg. I have some issues with piston slap or something like that when the engine is cold, but switching back to 5W30 didn't change it, so that's probably not an oil problem. I think that's a somewhat common problem for the V8 engine.

Synthetic is good for extremely cold winters, harsh driving cycles (like frequent short trips), or if you want to change it less frequently.

Part of the reason Toyota switched old vehicles to 5W20 is so that they only have to stock one or two kinds of oil (5W20 and synthetic 0W20). That saves money and storage space. Presumably they tested it and it's OK.

These engines seem to be easy on the oil, so it probably doesn't matter honestly. There are millions of vehicles out there running on the cheapest conventional oil that quick oil change places can get. If you do it yourself synthetic hardly costs any more than conventional (Mobil 1 often has rebates that make it about $14 for 5 quarts at Walmart). But if you're paying to have it changed then there's usually a bigger premium for synthetic.

 

[sport2004]

Thanks for the responses, guys...

I have no problem with a synthetic blend, should go 5K miles with no problems. But, I really don't want to use 5W-20. I'm almost afraid that if I insist on the 30, after some push back from the dealer, they may go ahead and put in the 20, with me not being the wiser.

 

[Ralph Blake]

I have been using Mobil1 5/30 and feel it's the correct weights for my needs.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I used 0W20 for a while, and I didn't see much of a change in mileage from 5W30. I don't doubt it helps, but it probably saves you less than 1 mpg. I have some issues with piston slap or something like that when the engine is cold, but switching back to 5W30 didn't change it, so that's probably not an oil problem. I think that's a somewhat common problem for the V8 engine.

Synthetic is good for extremely cold winters, harsh driving cycles (like frequent short trips), or if you want to change it less frequently.

Part of the reason Toyota switched old vehicles to 5W20 is so that they only have to stock one or two kinds of oil (5W20 and synthetic 0W20). That saves money and storage space. Presumably they tested it and it's OK.

These engines seem to be easy on the oil, so it probably doesn't matter honestly. There are millions of vehicles out there running on the cheapest conventional oil that quick oil change places can get. If you do it yourself synthetic hardly costs any more than conventional (Mobil 1 often has rebates that make it about $14 for 5 quarts at Walmart). But if you're paying to have it changed then there's usually a bigger premium for synthetic.

Not sure about the cost savings, all the Toyota dealers I've seen stock 5w-30, 5w-20, and 0w-20 in bulk because all our older vehicles and the Tacoma up until 2016 used 5w-30. A handful used 5w-20 for a bit, and then they switched everything to 0w-20.

As for piston slap in the 2UZ-FE, that's the first I've heard of it... are you sure it's not an exhaust leak or something? I imagine if you have piston slap, oil won't fix that... sort of a "the damage is done" issue.

From my readings, the change over to the thinner 20wt was for EPA and MPG's. The 5th gens are all spec'd for 20wt I believe.

With how old our motors are by now, I stick to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule of thumb.

Well they went with 5w-20 for a short while, now they went with an even thinner synthetic 0w-20 across the board.

Thanks for the responses, guys...

I have no problem with a synthetic blend, should go 5K miles with no problems. But, I really don't want to use 5W-20. I'm almost afraid that if I insist on the 30, after some push back from the dealer, they may go ahead and put in the 20, with me not being the wiser.

Run what the engine is designed for, you won't get much if any benefit running a 5w-20, I wouldn't even waste time with 0w-20. The engine was never designed for such a thin oil to begin with. Dealer is going to put whatever the cap and/or oil sheet says, so unless you ask for something specific they're gonna run 5w-30 in it.

 

[sport2004]

Not sure about the cost savings, all the Toyota dealers I've seen stock 5w-30, 5w-20, and 0w-20 in bulk because all our older vehicles and the Tacoma up until 2016 used 5w-30. A handful used 5w-20 for a bit, and then they switched everything to 0w-20.

As for piston slap in the 2UZ-FE, that's the first I've heard of it... are you sure it's not an exhaust leak or something? I imagine if you have piston slap, oil won't fix that... sort of a "the damage is done" issue.



Well they went with 5w-20 for a short while, now they went with an even thinner synthetic 0w-20 across the board.



Run what the engine is designed for, you won't get much if any benefit running a 5w-20, I wouldn't even waste time with 0w-20. The engine was never designed for such a thin oil to begin with. Dealer is going to put whatever the cap and/or oil sheet says, so unless you ask for something specific they're gonna run 5w-30 in it.

Thanks for the insight. I had the same thoughts about the switch.

Only reason I brought this up to begin with is the service rep on the phone said 5W-20, but there is the possibility he was wrong.

 

[TXLX1]

Thanks for the insight. I had the same thougths about the switch.

Only reason I brought this up to begin with is the service rep on the phone said 5W-20, but there is the possibility he was wrong.

It's probably what they have in their reel, and most often used. I use 5-30, but if I took somewhere and they only had 5-20 in the reel and would cost me more to get 5-30, I'd just get the 5-20

 

[CookieRoe]

From my readings, the change over to the thinner 20wt was for EPA and MPG's. The 5th gens are all spec'd for 20wt I believe.

With how old our motors are by now, I stick to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule of thumb.

20wt? You mean 5W-20 or 0W-20?

I can't picture putting in straight 20wt oil in the 1GRFE. Little protection when cold. Yikes. Unless of course you operate in the Sahara Desert.

For the past 2 oil changes (so 10,000 miles), I've put in 0W-20. Haven't seen any gains in MPG (you honestly shouldn't expect anything EXCEPT improved very cold start protection). So far, so good (as in, no leaks, no ticking, no comsumption, etc). I use 0W-20 b/c, as was previously mentioned, it is often on sale in Walmart AND I use this for my 07 Civic.

 

[m85476585]

Not sure about the cost savings, all the Toyota dealers I've seen stock 5w-30, 5w-20, and 0w-20 in bulk because all our older vehicles and the Tacoma up until 2016 used 5w-30. A handful used 5w-20 for a bit, and then they switched everything to 0w-20.

As for piston slap in the 2UZ-FE, that's the first I've heard of it... are you sure it's not an exhaust leak or something? I imagine if you have piston slap, oil won't fix that... sort of a "the damage is done" issue.

Per this chart they allow 5W20 or 0W20 for everything made after 2000. Toyota Oil Chart
Presumably that's so they can stock mostly those two kinds of oil, but I guess a lot of dealers still keep 5W30 for vehicles that were originally designed for it.

Here's my thread about the noise when my engine is cold. I never got a definitive answer, but I guess it could be an exhaust leak. It's hard to get a good video of the sound, and it's hard to hear under the hood because all the other noises are louder. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/207713-rough-engine-sound-cold-mornings.html

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Per this chart they allow 5W20 or 0W20 for everything made after 2000. Toyota Oil Chart
Presumably that's so they can stock mostly those two kinds of oil, but I guess a lot of dealers still keep 5W30 for vehicles that were originally designed for it.

Here's my thread about the noise when my engine is cold. I never got a definitive answer, but I guess it could be an exhaust leak. It's hard to get a good video of the sound, and it's hard to hear under the hood because all the other noises are louder. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/207713-rough-engine-sound-cold-mornings.html

Look at the chart closely, all the 1GR-FE (Single VVTi, Dual switched to a 0w-20 design), 2UZ-FE vehicles are 5w-30 or optionally 5w-20 okay. Again, I'm not saying running 5w-20 is going to blow your engine (if Toyota tested it and said it's okay it shouldn't), running a 0w-20 in an engine originally designed for 5w-30 is not something I would do. 0w-20 is much thinner than 5w-20 and I imagine 5w-20 was at best a "well I guess you could do it" thing from Toyota.

It comes down to the fact that the entire lubrication system, bearings, ect. were designed for a 5w-30 API SN or better oil. You wouldn't run 5w-30 in an engine designed for 0w-20 for the same reasons.

 

[m85476585]

Look at the chart closely, all the 1GR-FE (Single VVTi, Dual switched to a 0w-20 design), 2UZ-FE vehicles are 5w-30 or optionally 5w-20 okay. Again, I'm not saying running 5w-20 is going to blow your engine (if Toyota tested it and said it's okay it shouldn't), running a 0w-20 in an engine originally designed for 5w-30 is not something I would do. 0w-20 is much thinner than 5w-20 and I imagine 5w-20 was at best a "well I guess you could do it" thing from Toyota.

It comes down to the fact that the entire lubrication system, bearings, ect. were designed for a 5w-30 API SN or better oil. You wouldn't run 5w-30 in an engine designed for 0w-20 for the same reasons.

I meant that for all those engines either 5W20 or 0W20 is one of the options. Not that 0W20 is an option for every engine. The only ones that require 5W30 are older ones.

I tend to agree that we might as well stick with 5W30.

 

[ZebRuaj]

20wt? You mean 5W-20 or 0W-20?

Yup. I should've keyed in Xw-20 to avoid confusion.

I've been tempted to run the thinner 5w-20 or 0w-20 in the 4Runner since I stash it for the wife's Rav4 but it's lasted 152k now on good ol 5w30 so why create a potential problem?

 

[Rodbolt]

Different engine but my 2008 5.7 Sequoia has been flawless for 220,000 miles with Mobil 1 5W-20

I just purchased a '07 4.7 with 103,000. Need to decide what Mobil 1 for it?