89 22re completely dead, wont start

[BaseRunner]

I just ran into a whole new problem. My truck started fine no problem, I drive to my cousins house and turn it off, 45 mins later I come out to start it and NOTHING, not even a click, a light or anything...it was completely dead...no turnover no clicking sound from the glovebox for the starte, nothing! I tried to jump it and still no lights no cranking or anything I used two seprate jumper cables too. Anyone have a clue what it is?

 

[BaseRunner]

Could it be the battery wires? If it was the starter. You'd hear a wining noise when you start the car. Where the starter motor turns but not enough power to turn the fly wheel. But it seems like no power is getting to the starter. Only thing I can say is there's no electrical power. Since no dash board lights came on and no clicking of the starter or anything, and the battery is only a year old so im thinking its the battery wires???...Anyone got any info to confirm this?

 

[BigRyan1986]

that very well could be the problem try swapping with a hot battery just to eliminate that it could be the battery if that doesnt do it than look at the ground cable it sounds like it may be a ground problem

 

[BaseRunner]

that very well could be the problem try swapping with a hot battery just to eliminate that it could be the battery if that doesnt do it than look at the ground cable it sounds like it may be a ground problem

I'm gonna have to do that, another possibility im thinking about is the ignition switch...do you think that would cause this type of problem?

 

[RAD4Runner]

Could it be the battery wires?...Only thing I can say is there's no electrical power...

Not the battery. Assuming you inspected and cleaned to bare metal all your connections, Id say power got interrupted between battery and your fuse block in engine compartment.

Gotta have a volt-meter.
Check your Screwed-in 80A fusible link. Got voltage on both sides?
Check your fusible link wire. Got voltage at plate where where it enters the fuse block?

Fusible Link wire:

Fusible Link Wire is screwed directly to the Screwed-In Fusible Link here

Here's the schematic:

Let us know what you find out.

 

[BaseRunner]

Not the battery. Assuming you inspected and cleaned to bare metal all your connections, Id say power got interrupted between battery and your fuse block in engine compartment.

Gotta have a volt-meter.
Check your Screwed-in 80A fusible link. Got voltage on both sides?
Check your fusible link wire. Got voltage at plate where where it enters the fuse block?

Fusible Link wire:

Fusible Link Wire is screwed directly to the Screwed-In Fusible Link here

Here's the schematic:

Let us know what you find out.

Unfortunately I don't have a volt-meter :/ so I cant do any of that. I'm gonna have to mess with the wires and see if can get a connection. If worst comes to worst i'm gonna have to tow it to the shop...damn it just when I thought i was problem free lol

 

[RAD4Runner]

Unfortunately I don't have a volt-meter ...
...i'm gonna have to tow it to the shop...

This is a simple problem. You really want to rely on others to work on your truck and pay them each time you have an electrical problem?
A volt-meter is something we all should have in the truck at all times, anyway.
AND ALSO a schematic stored on our smartphones.

How much would you pay the shop? More than these, I bet

Radioshack

Harborfreight

 

[RAD4Runner]

OOPS Double-Click.
Admins, please delete.

 

[RAD4Runner]

...another possibility im thinking about is the ignition switch...do you think that would cause this type of problem?

Absolutely not. You can pull out the ignition switch and you would still have tail lights, dash lights, dome lights and hazards.

Electrical problems need:
1) Patience
2) Multi-meter - next to our senses (hear/feel a click? smell something burn? feel something hot? See hot wire touching chassis?) this is the most important electrical diagnostic tool.
3) Schematic - so you're not guessing like that shop you could take your shop to.

 

[BaseRunner]

This is a simple problem. You really want to rely on others to work on your truck and pay them each time you have an electrical problem?
A volt-meter is something we all should have in the truck at all times, anyway.
AND ALSO a schematic stored on our smartphones.

How much would you pay the shop? More than these, I bet

Radioshack

Harborfreight

Absolutely not. You can pull out the ignition switch and you would still have tail lights, dash lights, dome lights and hazards.

Electrical problems need:
1) Patience
2) Multi-meter - next to our senses (hear/feel a click? smell something burn? feel something hot? See hot wire touching chassis?) this is the most important electrical diagnostic tool.
3) Schematic - so you're not guessing like that shop you could take your shop to.

Yea I hear ya man, but I'm not that mechanically inclined. I need a damn haynes or Chiltons Manuel to get me started, because without that I feel like I'll mess something up rather than fix anything. But I really appreciate all your help, and thanks for ruling out the ignition switch.

 

[KidVermicious]

Nobody gets to be "mechanically inclined" by calling the towtruck. Get you a $5 multimeter from Harbor Freight, then watch a Youtube video or two to learn how to use it (or come back here and we'll walk you through it), then check the spots RAD laid out.

While you're running around, pull the battery and take it to a parts store to get checked out just in case. Did you get any spark when you hooked up the jumper cables?

 

[RAD4Runner]

One's gotta start somewhere. Where better to start than where people are willing to help u. If u really want to give away ur money, I can send u my Paypal acct. LOL!
Shall we start by getting a 6-dollar multimeter?

 

[BaseRunner]

Nobody gets to be "mechanically inclined" by calling the towtruck. Get you a $5 multimeter from Harbor Freight, then watch a Youtube video or two to learn how to use it (or come back here and we'll walk you through it), then check the spots RAD laid out.

While you're running around, pull the battery and take it to a parts store to get checked out just in case. Did you get any spark when you hooked up the jumper cables?

One's gotta start somewhere. Where better to start than where people are willing to help u. If u really want to give away ur money, I can send u my Paypal acct. LOL!
Shall we start by getting a 6-dollar multimeter?

lol well you guys are awesome i really appreciate yals help. I went back out there and after reading what RAD said over 7 times and watching some youtube videos I got up enough courage to go out there and mess with it. I noticed I had spark when I put the cables on the battery and touched them together, so that ruled the battery out. Rad4runner also ruled out the ignition switch for me so I knew it wasn't that. I went and got a little piece of wire and cut both ends off, after touching it on several of the wires I finally got it onto the right one, which I want to call the white wire on the fusebox and then onto the positive on the battery. I noticed my lights came on (you can imagine my excitement lol) I got my cousin to go in the truck and start it up as I touched the wire onto the positive of the battery and booom it started right up. Rad4runner you were right, it seems one of the wires thats leading from that one fuse is either corroded or just not getting the juice to the battery because after I turned it off it wouldnt turn back on again, so I guess I'm gonna have to unscrew the fusebox and see what wires are corroded underneath.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Cool
That's the best way to learn. Get in there. Dive in that spaghetti soup* of wires.
See that segment with blue wire exposed? that's the Fusible link wire. Inspect/test that. Also the 80-amp Fusible link module (like a fuse) that it screws directly into.
To remove the module, you need to un-mount the fuse block and work from the bottom. There's a tab taht needs to be pushed out of the way. Terrys87 on Yotatech has a picture.


So...
I need to add to my list...
Electrical problems need:
1) Patience
2) Multi-meter
3) Schematic
.
.
.

4) COURAGE - LOL!

I noticed I had spark when I put the cables on the battery and touched them together

Not that kind of courage - LOL! Don't do that. Run to Harbor Freight now - LOL!




*chefyota4x4@yotatech

 

[BaseRunner]

Cool
That's the best way to learn. Get in there. Dive in that spaghetti soup* of wires.
See that segment with blue wire exposed? that's the Fusible link wire. Inspect/test that. Also the 80-amp Fusible link module (like a fuse) that it screws directly into.
To remove the module, you need to un-mount the fuse block and work from the bottom. There's a tab taht needs to be pushed out of the way. Terrys87 on Yotatech has a picture.


So...
I need to add to my list...
Electrical problems need:
1) Patience
2) Multi-meter
3) Schematic
.
.
.

4) COURAGE - LOL!



Not that kind of courage - LOL! Don't do that. Run to Harbor Freight now - LOL!




*chefyota4x4@yotatech

LOL yea I'd throw courage in there! Trust me I didn't touch the cables too much, I just barely touched them enough to see a bit of spark and that was it lol. Lucky for me my brother in law knows this stuff in and out, so after starting my truck manually with my handy wire lol, I went to his place and we changed all the wires and cleaned up what didn't need to be changed. I also changed both my battery terminals because they were in pretty bad shape. I know first hand how to do this stuff next time if it happens again. You're a lifesaver [MENTION=80771]RAD4Runner[/MENTION] thank you very much for your help. I couldn't have done it without your help.