89 mild build
- Thread starter airdreams1
- Start date
flyinhawaiian01
New member
OI! I just realized that's a 3VZE in there! For some reason, I just thought it was a 22RE and never even looked at the engine in your pics!:wacko:
levi.watson
New member
Sweet, thanks!
airdreams1
New member
So, still been fixing everything on it that got messed up in the wreck.... Still have 2 things theat I cant seem to figure out. (yes, both issues are new since the wreck. may have others that I havent found yet.)
~ 1 ~ The e-brake light wont turn off. it does dim a bit when pressed in all the way. yes I changed the switch for 1 that tested good, & it didnt help. any ideas?
~ 2 ~ the cruse control doesnt work. I cant seem to find any fuse to check. the push button on the dash does light up when pushed, but it wont set with the control on the wiper arm. did change the whole turn signal/wiper/cruse switch that didnt help. Any ideas on whta to check or where the fuse is?
(unfortinatly, I cant download the FSHM on my old mac.
)
.........................................................................................................................................
Brakes are all mushy now as well. Going to bleed them & see if that fixes them.
thinking about getting these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FITS-TOYOTA...ash=item2ca5a71d33:g:RLYAAOSw7FRWarLk&vxp=mtr Just wondering if anyone has used them & if they are any good. (supposidly drilled & slotted rotors help)
also going to do new rear shoes & wheel cylinders, brake booster & maybe hoses as well. (depends on funds)
wish I could do rear disk conversion, but thats way out of my price range & I dont like that there is no kit that alows for emergency brake. (yes I know they make a transfer case/driveline brake. just more $$$ )
~ 1 ~ The e-brake light wont turn off. it does dim a bit when pressed in all the way. yes I changed the switch for 1 that tested good, & it didnt help. any ideas?
~ 2 ~ the cruse control doesnt work. I cant seem to find any fuse to check. the push button on the dash does light up when pushed, but it wont set with the control on the wiper arm. did change the whole turn signal/wiper/cruse switch that didnt help. Any ideas on whta to check or where the fuse is?
(unfortinatly, I cant download the FSHM on my old mac.
).........................................................................................................................................
Brakes are all mushy now as well. Going to bleed them & see if that fixes them.
thinking about getting these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FITS-TOYOTA...ash=item2ca5a71d33:g:RLYAAOSw7FRWarLk&vxp=mtr Just wondering if anyone has used them & if they are any good. (supposidly drilled & slotted rotors help)
also going to do new rear shoes & wheel cylinders, brake booster & maybe hoses as well. (depends on funds)
wish I could do rear disk conversion, but thats way out of my price range & I dont like that there is no kit that alows for emergency brake. (yes I know they make a transfer case/driveline brake. just more $$$ )
Last edited:
airdreams1
New member
Humm. guess nobody knows much about cruse control....
having more issues to deal with: have some sort of fuel leak (injectors, fuel rail, or something up in the motor.) so have to tare off the plenum & hope I can find the issue. if not Ill just start replacing everything!
did replace the fuel sending unit in the tank, welded in a new muffler. pulled a bunch of odds & ins @ the wrecking yard since they have 2 first gen 4runners... stuff like ignition door & tailgate lock with key. extra interior panels. e-brake handle (mine is worn). etc. there is more that Id like to get, but funds are getting low.
having more issues to deal with: have some sort of fuel leak (injectors, fuel rail, or something up in the motor.) so have to tare off the plenum & hope I can find the issue. if not Ill just start replacing everything!
did replace the fuel sending unit in the tank, welded in a new muffler. pulled a bunch of odds & ins @ the wrecking yard since they have 2 first gen 4runners... stuff like ignition door & tailgate lock with key. extra interior panels. e-brake handle (mine is worn). etc. there is more that Id like to get, but funds are getting low.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Your cruise control will not set because the brake light has an issue. I believe you may have a short somewhere with it, causing the light to come on.
Or, its possible that the brake reservoir switch is stuck or fluid is low. I'd check that first to rule it out. I forget if the switch is N.O. or N.C., you might wanna try unplugging it. If light comes on bright, then jump the switch terminals and see if it goes out. Its either one or the other for that switch. Hopefully its just low on brake fluid and once you fill it up, all goes back to normal!
Or, its possible that the brake reservoir switch is stuck or fluid is low. I'd check that first to rule it out. I forget if the switch is N.O. or N.C., you might wanna try unplugging it. If light comes on bright, then jump the switch terminals and see if it goes out. Its either one or the other for that switch. Hopefully its just low on brake fluid and once you fill it up, all goes back to normal!
airdreams1
New member
brake fluid is full.......
switch unplugged = bright
switch jumped = slightly dimmer
switch unplugged = bright
switch jumped = slightly dimmer
_ExpeditionMan
New member
So, still been fixing everything on it that got messed up in the wreck.... Still have 2 things theat I cant seem to figure out. (yes, both issues are new since the wreck. may have others that I havent found yet.)
~ 1 ~ The e-brake light wont turn off. it does dim a bit when pressed in all the way. yes I changed the switch for 1 that tested good, & it didnt help. any ideas?
~ 2 ~ the cruse control doesnt work. I cant seem to find any fuse to check. the push button on the dash does light up when pushed, but it wont set with the control on the wiper arm. did change the whole turn signal/wiper/cruse switch that didnt help. Any ideas on whta to check or where the fuse is?
(unfortinatly, I cant download the FSHM on my old mac.
.........................................................................................................................................
Brakes are all mushy now as well. Going to bleed them & see if that fixes them.
thinking about getting these: Fits Toyota 4Runner 86 87 88 89 90 May 91 Rotors Metallic Pads Front | eBay Just wondering if anyone has used them & if they are any good. (supposidly drilled & slotted rotors help)
also going to do new rear shoes & wheel cylinders, brake booster & maybe hoses as well. (depends on funds)
wish I could do rear disk conversion, but thats way out of my price range & I dont like that there is no kit that alows for emergency brake. (yes I know they make a transfer case/driveline brake. just more $$$ )
I know the answer to your cruise control problem! Went through the same thing recently with my 1994. Forgive the long post:
The cruise control on my second gen (should be same on yours) has 3 requirements that must be met before it will engage. Assuming you have a manual, an automatic may be slightly different.
1) clutch peddle has to be in a fully returned state. There is a button sensor near the very top of the clutch peddle (furthest from where you put your foot) that has to be fully depressed to allow cruise control engagement. If you have slack in your clutch pedal (meaning the return spring is worn) you may not be depressing this all the way
2) This was the issue I was having, an e-brake light that wouldn't shut off. If this brake light is on the sensor is sending a signal saying your parking brake is engaged. Cruise will not engage if the light is on, regardless of whether or not your e-brake is pulled or pushed into the dash. If you look up under the dash with a light and follow the shaft of the parking brake handle you will notice a tab about .5 inches long. It sticks off the shaft at a 90 degree angle. This tab is supposed to depress another button which will kill the parking brake light and free up cruise control. This can be hard to do if you aren't feeling for it or aware of the tab and button. Next time you release your e brake try to land the tab on the button, you should be able to tell if you are missing the button if the e-brake handle is fully depressed but you cannot rotate it past a certain point. That limit in movement is typically the tab contacting the button (which is extended, since the tab didn't push it down). Once you get a hang of this it isn't too hard to nail it each time.
3) the last preventative measure before using cruise control is low brake fluid. Most people don't know this but (at least for 2nd gens) the e brake light serves a dual purpose, as it notifies low brake fluid level AND the position of the e brake.
Hope this helps, and let me know if cruise still doesn't work after all this because I have a few more ideas.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Bummer! Was hoping it would be an easy fix! Try Expeditionman's suggestion before moving forward, see if that's it. I still think its an issue with the brake's lighting, but its more intensive to diagnose than the clutch pedal, so try the easy things first.
Btw, you wouldn't have LED tail/stop lights in the truck, would you? Also, you wouldn't have a trailer light converter like this:
If so, next plan is to check that box and see if its swollen or burnt!
airdreams1
New member
ExpeditionMan:
*Brake fluid is full.
*its not the e-brake switch. I tried a new switch, deleting it & jumping it.
*Ill check the clutch pedal switch
Flyin:
*no LED in the tail lights. They are all regular bulbs & halogen turn & reverse. only the 3rd brake light is LED.
*Will check the trailer box. should be good, as i had just put it in right after the motor..
*Brake fluid is full.
*its not the e-brake switch. I tried a new switch, deleting it & jumping it.
*Ill check the clutch pedal switch
Flyin:
*no LED in the tail lights. They are all regular bulbs & halogen turn & reverse. only the 3rd brake light is LED.
*Will check the trailer box. should be good, as i had just put it in right after the motor..
airdreams1
New member
another issue is that the water temp gage works very intermittently...... if I whack the dash it some times starts working again. (tac doe sit too, but rarely)
going to tare it apart & see if I can get it to work..... thinking its a loose connection or something...
going to tare it apart & see if I can get it to work..... thinking its a loose connection or something...
levi.watson
New member
Can't remember what the thread was about, but I saw a write up on how to fix that one on here. Something about corroded connections on the back of the board. I bet with some searching you could find it.
theking11863
Member
Corroded or loose. When I pulled out the gauges in the Firebird it did the same thing because connection doesn't actually lock. There is a connector in the back of the dash that fits in a port in the back of the cluster. It's a lose, crappy connection. When I was tightening the bolts the gauges would go from working to freaking out and static to working again with every half turn.
Thankfully Toyota did something right and made the connections lock into the back of the cluster :clap2:
_ExpeditionMan
New member
If I am not mistaken the cruise control is also vacuum operated (yay..). Have you checked to see if you have a leak in the corresponding hose(s)?
airdreams1
New member
shouldnt be any holes in the new vacuum lines.
airdreams1
New member
still haven't figured out the cruse control....
Bought Old Man Emu leafs & u Bolts & nuts + bushing kit, 6 x120mm greasable bolts, made my own stock length shackles, & to brace up the front of the frame (since it was wrecked & Im sure its much weaker after being straightened by me) I cot there Severe Duty Frame Brace. (will be adding some more metal to it to make it even stronger.)
ball joint spacers for the front from 4Crawler.com main page
after 6 hrs.... (they dont tell you the stock holes in the frame hangers wont work!) made my own shackles & only the rear lifted:
& with the front lifted:
& its still easily 5" taller in the rear than the front..... Not really happy with it that high in the rear.
Bought Old Man Emu leafs & u Bolts & nuts + bushing kit, 6 x120mm greasable bolts, made my own stock length shackles, & to brace up the front of the frame (since it was wrecked & Im sure its much weaker after being straightened by me) I cot there Severe Duty Frame Brace. (will be adding some more metal to it to make it even stronger.)
ball joint spacers for the front from 4Crawler.com main page
after 6 hrs.... (they dont tell you the stock holes in the frame hangers wont work!) made my own shackles & only the rear lifted:
& with the front lifted:
& its still easily 5" taller in the rear than the front..... Not really happy with it that high in the rear.
Last edited:
airdreams1
New member
some other things Ive been working on
RAV4 steering wheel took a bit of work to make it work....
LED dome light from an RV.... now I can see everything @ night!
video doesnt really show how much light it really puts out. (tablet doesn't take good video I guess)
Also had 1 of my wheels come off after the lift..... someone put these on these POS nuts to hold on the wheel bearings.
No Idea how they are suppose to hold without the lock washer thing & second nut..... so it came loose & distroyed my wheel bearings, Waren locking Hubs & my rotor! (have the same thing on the other side so It will be getting switched out tomorrow!)
atleast my buddy in seattle scored me a set of used AISIN Hubs... now to get new rotors & wheel bearings.
RAV4 steering wheel took a bit of work to make it work....
LED dome light from an RV.... now I can see everything @ night!
video doesnt really show how much light it really puts out. (tablet doesn't take good video I guess)
Also had 1 of my wheels come off after the lift..... someone put these on these POS nuts to hold on the wheel bearings.
No Idea how they are suppose to hold without the lock washer thing & second nut..... so it came loose & distroyed my wheel bearings, Waren locking Hubs & my rotor! (have the same thing on the other side so It will be getting switched out tomorrow!)
atleast my buddy in seattle scored me a set of used AISIN Hubs... now to get new rotors & wheel bearings.
Last edited:
airdreams1
New member
Not too sure I like the baljoint spacer lift.... It changed the handling (on-road) severely! Its almost scarry how bad it wanders now. The tiniest bit of movement makes it react like you jerked the wheel to avoid a wreck.
Now, I will admit that I still need a pro alignment... (I did a home job for now & have it pretty close.) 1 Shop (big name brand) Said I need new: idler arm, pitman arm, tie rods, & all new bushings, etc.... The 2nd shop just recommended new tie rod ends since i have 2 boots with small tares.... So figure Ill try to hold out & get new parts before I spend the $$ on the alignment.
Now, I will admit that I still need a pro alignment... (I did a home job for now & have it pretty close.) 1 Shop (big name brand) Said I need new: idler arm, pitman arm, tie rods, & all new bushings, etc.... The 2nd shop just recommended new tie rod ends since i have 2 boots with small tares.... So figure Ill try to hold out & get new parts before I spend the $$ on the alignment.
