earlier today I started it up and everything sounded fine. drove it about 5-10 miles and as I was going up a hill I downshifted to 1st then to 2nd and soon as i hit 2nd it started to die and stalled on me. I pulled off and can't get it to get started. It doesn't sound like its the started because it still turns off just won't actually start. I thought maybe the fuel pump but not sure. earlier i didn't get a chance to listen and see if i heard the fuel pump kick on but someone told me the fuel pump is in the gas tank? its a 1990 6cyc 3.0 any ideas would be great please
90runner died and wont start
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I did check it, it didn't seem milky. I did put oil in it earlier today because it was low. it has like 225,000 miles and when i took it for an oil change they put 5w 30 and earlier today i put 10w 30. think its possible I could have screwed something up? I don't think it would of but who knows...and if i blew a head gasket it still wouldn't start up would it?
Awz
New member
If you blew a headgasket it likely wouldn't start (sometimes they still will). If the oil isn't milky, I'd be looking for spark and fuel. I don't know how easy either would be to check on the V6. Easiest way to check for spark is to pull one wire, and place it next to something metal (very away from the fuel lines, but grounded) have a friend crank the engine, (remove the fuel pump fuse) The best way is to get a spark tester, they connect to one of the wires and have a clamp on the other end (I'm nervous testing spark without one of these, they just make me feel better. Need to remove pump fuse for this too), Fuel I'm not sure on the V6, but I'd find a fitting somewhere (preferably one without the banjo fittings, they don't always go back together well). and turn the key to the ON position, and see if you get any fuel.
I checked the spark plugs and no milky oil. I checked the dipstick and couldn't see. I think that my dip stick is aftermarket and is too small. on yours about how long is the dipstick? the only that mine currently has is probably like two feet long if that. When I first tried to start it puttered and tried but then the second time nothing. i tried to listen in the gas tank when the key was in the on position to see if i could hear it(thats what i was told to do to listen for it) and i couldn't hear anything. i think i was messing with the right thing but when i reached my hand up above my actual gas tank there was something with i think 2 wires that looked like fuel lines coming off it so that could have been the fuel pump. i tried knocking on it and everything and nothing worked. my issue is that its across town from me and i didn't feel like calling a tow truck out today. tomorrow morning or afternoon im gonna have it towed to my house so that I can inspect more closely. any suggestions or ideas what else i should do? anyone know how hard it is to change the fuel pump or filter on this year? its 1990 v6 3.0 4x4
jdjesse
New member
did you check for spark? and when you had the filter off did you check for fuel?
so i check them for spark and none of my spark plugs are giving me sparks? my wires were all corroded. one or two of them looked like they arent even giving a connection to the spark plugs. but i havent really noticed any less power lately. i got the truck about 6 months ago so it could have been like this the entire time and i never noticed it. ive already put like 8000 miles on it lol. should i replace the distributor cap if i replace the plugs an wires?
Awz
New member
Yes replace the cap with the wires, especially if they're corroded. I would replace the rotor inside as well. they wear out. I just replace plugs, wires, cap, and rotor whenever I do my tune ups. Costs a little more then normal, but I know it's all good.
I replaced the wires, spark plugs, and the rotor inside the cap. but not the cap yet. would it make that big of a deal? inside the cap i didn't see much build up or gunk in the bottom. think i should just replace the cap now? do you think that it could be my starter solenoid? or my iginition? how would I check if it were either of them?
or my coils?
or my coils?
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Davesdetail
New member
Check your timing belt. Use a timing light while someone cranks the starter. If you do not see your crank mark anywhere near the timing plate; pull your radiator, shroud, fan, and timing cover, pull your #1 spark plug, and turn the crank clockwise to top dead center, making sure the #1 piston is up top ( I use a pencil). Now check both overhead cam pulley marks which should be at 12 o'clock, lined up with marks on casing. Your belt may have jumped on one side or the other. Since you've gone this far, I would still take your crank pulley off, and change the belt. Good luck, and let me know.
Cheers, Dave :hatsoff:
LakeRunr
Member
Yes. It's relatively cheap. The contacts on the inside of the cap wear over time. If still no spark after that, it could be your ignition coil.
Absolutely not, as long as the starter is turning the engine, the starter is fine.
I think Davesdetail may be onto something. I just re-read your 1st post, and that's exactly what a busted timing belt does when it goes.
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man. you two are absolutely right. I pulled the top cover off of the timing belt and there my belt was...in half. i was checking online to see how hard it would be to change it myself and it looks impossible without being in a shop. I was told i would need to have it lifted up because of how much work is needed to get to the second/third covers off. anyone have any advice on how i could do it myself? or how much it would cost me at a mechanics shop? if all it takes is me taking apart the front of the motor im convinced i can do it by laying underneath it. yay or nae?
Hi everyone, I think the same thing happened to me today. What is the top cover you took off, is that the valve cover? Mine is an 89 4 cylinder so it may be different. There's no spark so I took distributor cap off and It's not spinning, how can I tell if it's chain or distributor?
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Davesdetail
New member
I didn't have to go underneath. It sits up high enough, if you do get under it. Follow my directions on this thread, and you could do this. The tensioner has a spring on it to remove, then loosen the single bolt on it. You will need a puller to get the crankcase pulley off. Autozone will rent you one, and give your money back when you return it, minus tax I think. Buy a book on this car, if you feel unsure, this belt is maybe $30. Don't Take it To A Shop! Save your money. Again, You Can Do This!
LakeRunr
Member
Probably not the distributor...you'd have to strip one hell of a gear for that to stop turning.
The timing belt cover you have to remove is NOT the valve cover. It's a plastic cover on the front of the engine. It should just be held on by several bolts (low torque). I don't know what the 4-cylinder engine looks like, but if you take a picture of it, we can show you what to remove.
Thanks lakeRunr, I don't know if this picture will be helpful. I'm sure this is just a coincident but yesterday I took it in for oil change, this morning it started up and I went inside to let it warm up, but when I came out it wasn't running, looks like it never ran long because the windows were still frosted. I checked oil it looks fine.
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I have faith in myself now haha. I called around mechanics shop all day and the prices ranged from 300-900 bucks. no way i can afford that right now right after christmas. they kept telling me how much work it was and that i would need to have it jacked up and it was soo tough and what not for them to get it. not sure if they were just blowing smoke out there ass or what but if its as easy as your telling me I know i can probably do it. ive already gotten to where ive got the first cover off. it shouldnt take me long to get down to the timing guide. if you dont mind would you tell me what i would need to do exactly after i get down where the belt will come right out. like what i need to do with the lining up and the crank shaft and what not. it would be so much appreciated. im going to go tomorrow or saturday and get that tool from autuzone. now with that said i have never really done any intense car work besides oil changes and the occasional spark plug changing. but im kind of a teach myself kind of guy. interwebz ftw.
(also what exact tools would i need besides the tool from autozone? I have a full set of sockets and wrenches. i'm just curious if there is a certain tool i will be needing)
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