90runner died and wont start

I have faith in myself now haha. I called around mechanics shop all day and the prices ranged from 300-900 bucks. no way i can afford that right now right after christmas. they kept telling me how much work it was and that i would need to have it jacked up and it was soo tough and what not for them to get it. not sure if they were just blowing smoke out there ass or what but if its as easy as your telling me I know i can probably do it. ive already gotten to where ive got the first cover off. it shouldnt take me long to get down to the timing guide. if you dont mind would you tell me what i would need to do exactly after i get down where the belt will come right out. like what i need to do with the lining up and the crank shaft and what not. it would be so much appreciated. im going to go tomorrow or saturday and get that tool from autuzone. now with that said i have never really done any intense car work besides oil changes and the occasional spark plug changing. but im kind of a teach myself kind of guy. interwebz ftw.

(also what exact tools would i need besides the tool from autozone? I have a full set of sockets and wrenches. i'm just curious if there is a certain tool i will be needing)
With the tools you already have, all you need is that puller. Make sure you set everything at top dead center, and mark your crank pulley with a sharpie, silver if you have it. If you don't have a book, look at one while at autozone so you know the pattern that the belt goes on. I could explain on here but it would be difficult. Important: After you get the belt on, turn the crankcase 2 full cycles, and check all your markings to make sure they are right on and didn't change. This IS a easy project, so don't listen to these machanics, they just want your money. Let me know if you get in a bind.
Cheers. Dave
 
With the tools you already have, all you need is that puller. Make sure you set everything at top dead center, and mark your crank pulley with a sharpie, silver if you have it. If you don't have a book, look at one while at autozone so you know the pattern that the belt goes on. I could explain on here but it would be difficult. Important: After you get the belt on, turn the crankcase 2 full cycles, and check all your markings to make sure they are right on and didn't change. This IS a easy project, so don't listen to these machanics, they just want your money. Let me know if you get in a bind.
Cheers. Dave

Alright thank you very much for the helpful info, I will try to get it done tomorrow but most likely it will be saturday. I will follow your instructions from this thread and let you know if i have any troubles and let you know the outcome. Thanks again
 
Alright thank you very much for the helpful info, I will try to get it done tomorrow but most likely it will be saturday. I will follow your instructions from this thread and let you know if i have any troubles and let you know the outcome. Thanks again

Maybe this will help.... This attachment is from Autozone;
 

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Only the #1 idler pulley, tension spring, and #1 timing belt cover needs to be removed. Also, buy a new seal for that lower timing belt cover to the oil pan. Good luck to ya.

just to clarify. you mean the seal for the #1 timing belt cover correct?
 
just to clarify. you mean the seal for the #1 timing belt cover correct?

Correct. If you look at the pic, there is a seal that is u-shape, that goes underneath the cover to the oil pan. you'll se it on the bottom side of the cover when you take it off.
 
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I don't know if this picture will be helpful.

Sorry, I don't see what I was expecting to see in your pictures. The 4-cylinder must have a different arrangement. Maybe Davesdetail can pull up the AutoZone exploded view from your engine.

I'm sure this is just a coincident but yesterday I took it in for oil change, this morning it started up and I went inside to let it warm up, but when I came out it wasn't running, looks like it never ran long because the windows were still frosted. I checked oil it looks fine.

I can't think of anything that an oil change could have done to kill your timing belt.
 
Sorry, I don't see what I was expecting to see in your pictures. The 4-cylinder must have a different arrangement. Maybe Davesdetail can pull up the AutoZone exploded view from your engine.



I can't think of anything that an oil change could have done to kill your timing belt.

Well, I hope this 4- cylinder set-up can help Noggie out. This att. is from Autozone. Cheers Guys.
 

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Correct. If you look at the pic, there is a seal that is u-shape, that goes underneath the cover to the oil pan. you'll se it on the bottom side of the cover when you take it off.

I can't seem to get the crankshaft pulley off. Ive tried everything and the bolt will not break. my problem is that when i try to turn the wratchet it turns with it. i asked autozone and advance for a tool that would help and they both told me that toyota has a tool that holds it but its like a $150 tool. just something to keep it from turning..any ideas?
 
If I'm reading your post correctly just chock the tires, put it in first gear and select low range. It will turn a bit, but it should help.

Also for Noggie, distributors will lock out. It is uncommon, but it is something that happens (as mine did). Pull the distributor cap and grab the rotor to see if it will budge in either direction. If you can't get your answer that way then remove the distributor to check if it has seized. Bad news is if it did then you most likely damaged the gear on the cam shaft and have shaving to find.

Good luck to you guys. :cheers:
 
low 4x4? I was considering doing that but I was worried about breaking something. also do you know if the bolt goes <----left or right---->? i was looking online and some people mentioned them being reverse threaded?
 
Yeah low 4x4. Pretty sure they are threaded in the normal direction.
Link on various ways one can and should not try.
REMOVAL

Good luck man.
 
i put it in 5th gear. low 4x4 and it didnt work. still spun. I pulled it out of low 4x4 in 2wd and it kept it from spinning. now my problem is getting the damn bolt off-_-
 
i got the crankshaft pulley off. but when im putting the belt off even with the tensioner spring all the way tightened my belt is still loose...is this normal?
 
i got the crankshaft pulley off. but when im putting the belt off even with the tensioner spring all the way tightened my belt is still loose...is this normal?

It's not normal. Do you have the idler pulley adjusted all the way to the right and still loose? The spring should just hold it together while you push the loosened idler pulley to the right with a 2x4 piece of wood.
 
so im not sure if the timing is right. but after putting everything back together i realized i never marked the spark plug wires. now the distributor cap has the numbers on it but i dont know which spark plug is which. does it go 1,2,3 on the right side(looking from the front of the truck) and then 4,5,6 on the left? or does it criss cross?
 
so im not sure if the timing is right. but after putting everything back together i realized i never marked the spark plug wires. now the distributor cap has the numbers on it but i dont know which spark plug is which. does it go 1,2,3 on the right side(looking from the front of the truck) and then 4,5,6 on the left? or does it criss cross?

Passenger side is 123- drivers side is456, front to back. did you get the timing belt tight? Not too bad of a job, right?
 
Passenger side is 123- drivers side is456, front to back. did you get the timing belt tight? Not too bad of a job, right?

ah okay so i have them completely backwards haha. and i thought i had it. but i think my timing is off still. i don't think i set it at TDC correct. could you thoroughly explain how to do that? my crankshaft doesn't have any markings. on the #1 cover it does have numbers on it i cant remember which. i put everything together and tried to start it and it tried but puttered. that could be from my spark plugs being backwards tho. i have them set as 123 drivers side and 456 passenger
 

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