91 3vze efi help needed-no spark!

MrElectric03

New member
Ok so a little back story here. I bought my 91 4runner 3.0 3vze 5 speed 4x4 a few months ago with a blown head gasket. The PO bought it that way a couple months earlier and never touched it. The story I'm told is that the guy he bought it from replaced the timing belt, water pump, and radiator. After he finished he started it and after running a bit it blew the head gasket. He first thing if noticed is that it did not have a fan shroud. Apparently it didn't fit with the bigger radiator he put in. After much research I found that radiator is a stock replacement and picked up a fan shroud from the junkyard which fit fine.

Now fast forward. I pulled it apart and replaced the head gaskets, set the timing belt and rotor at tdc and lined the distributor up with the notch on the stand and tried to fire it today. I'm getting fuel but it just cranks and wont fire. I checked for spark and had none. The CEL is turning on with the key and stays on while cranking. I checked the wiring and have 12v going into the coil. When I pulled the coil wire off and checked the output I found 12v going to the coil wire which doesn't seem like enough to me.

I've verified that the rotor is turning. I've searched on the interweb a little and with all of the stuff I've found I am completely confused with this. I'm a professional mining mechanic and have been pretty well humbled by this thing. If anyone had found the same issues and can lend a hand I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks!
 
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You might replace your EFI relay (located, passenger side of engine bay). They are usually $12 from the dealer and are a common failure item (ie our dealer actually stocks them). This sounds stupid, but make sure all the harnesses are connected properly, especially after a major repair like you have done. From there, if the problem persists, I would check the ignition unit. Best of luck with it.
regards
 
Well I found the issue. I had the distributor a tooth off. Now it runs ok. Now onto the next problem I found when bleeding the clutch, the pedal bracket (which has already been repaired) is cracked all over, upper bracket has been ripped out of the body, sheet metal behind the clutch master is cracked, and the pin hole in the pedal oblonged.
 

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