92-4Runner needing some help

4

4runner-neo

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Hey guys!!! I wanted to join this thread because you guys are the experts at these trucks. My 4 runner starts and then dies right up after. I replaced the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, and of course it wasn't the problem.

Its not throwing a code and i've tested if its getting spark and fuel. Both seem to check out ok.

ANY CLUE?? It has the 3.0 6V motor in it. I've followed the fuel line and loosen the main bolt and cranked it and gas goes everywhere. I pulled a plug and I am getting spark.

It starts up just fine, but when it come down to idle it dies....it sputtlers and dies. Help please!! Going through a divorce and I need this truck :(
 
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Can anyone help? I was told this was the place you guys would help me figure this out. I don't want to get rid of my truck...but I am running out of options. PLease help guys
 
Check your connections on the AFM. That's how my 22RE acts when the AFM is unplugged, and that was the problem on my friends' 5VZE this weekend too.
 
I'm haveing the same issure but no luck YET. My EGR top vacuumn line has vac when I start it up and I have bad idle. A sign that the egr valve itself works. Its not supposed to have vac until you put your foot to it, thus reducing emmissions by recirculating the hot gases. When I remove that top vac line the engine runs smoothly, of course. I suggest you try that. My modulator was carboned up, but replaceing that did not cure anything.
I do not know yet where this vac line runs too. TB is spotless, not looking forward to removeing plenom. I removed the VSV lines but still have vac at egr.Where is other end attached?

I've asked for help here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/156080-erradic-idle.html
 
Last edited:
bills86e said:
I'm haveing the same issure but no luck YET. My EGR top vacuumn line has vac when I start it up and I have bad idle. A sign that the egr valve itself works. Its not supposed to have vac until you put your foot to it, thus reducing emmissions by recirculating the hot gases. When I remove that top vac line the engine runs smoothly, of course. I suggest you try that. My modulator was carboned up, but replaceing that did not cure anything.
I do not know yet where this vac line runs too. TB is spotless, not looking forward to removeing plenom. I removed the VSV lines but still have vac at egr.Where is other end attached?

I've asked for help here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/156080-erradic-idle.html
Click to expand...

Mine has a nice smooth sound when it fires up..no misfire. Just when it comes down to idle it dies. I will look into this tomorrow. The truck was at my work so I couldn't try anything out on it just yet. I will keep you guys posted.
 
What I can't understand is ...when the temp dropped the truck worked fine for two days. Gotta little warmer and the problem came back
 
Have you tried adjusting the throttle screw? On hot days, my rpms are a little lower at idle. Maybe you just need to bump yours up.
 
nicnmike said:
Have you tried adjusting the throttle screw? On hot days, my rpms are a little lower at idle. Maybe you just need to bump yours up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response man...but it won't even take the gas when I hit the pedal, just shuts off.

I had a guy out today to help me...he swears its the pump so Im going to try that. I'll keep you guys posted
 
Easy enough to test the pressure = shraider valve = gauge.

I suggest you remove the Throttle body, use a spray TB cleaner like CRC, and tooth brush & paper towels. Might be carboned/closed up where plate meets. Do not use other solvents on a TB, light sprays only as TPS is very sensitive. Clean the Dashpot internal filter and the EGR modulator filter. Carbon seems to gum every one of these. The end caps just pop off.
 
bills86e said:
Easy enough to test the pressure = shraider valve = gauge.

I suggest you remove the Throttle body, use a spray TB cleaner like CRC, and tooth brush & paper towels. Might be carboned/closed up where plate meets. Do not use other solvents on a TB, light sprays only as TPS is very sensitive. Clean the Dashpot internal filter and the EGR modulator filter. Carbon seems to gum every one of these. The end caps just pop off.
Click to expand...

Im going to replace the fuel pump tonight. Wish me luck guys! :cry2:
 
hey guys...so BEFORE i tackle this fuel pump..I wanna make sure it wasn't something simple as a relay...cuz it doesn't seem to be having trouble getting fuel..WATCH THE VIDEO I MADE GUYS....WHAT DO U THINK?

Should I still change the fuel pump? Its $130 i really don't have if it isn't it :( ...let me know what you guys think

Here is video....1992 4runner - YouTube
 
4runner-neo said:
hey guys...so BEFORE i tackle this fuel pump..I wanna make sure it wasn't something simple as a relay...cuz it doesn't seem to be having trouble getting fuel..WATCH THE VIDEO I MADE GUYS....WHAT DO U THINK?

Should I still change the fuel pump? Its $130 i really don't have if it isn't it :( ...let me know what you guys think

Here is video....1992 4runner - YouTube
Click to expand...

Honestly I don't think it's the fuel pump that's not how they tend to act when they are going out. I think it has to do with your ECM or a connection. Good luck
 
I suggest you pull the modulator cap and clean the filter in there. Next, pull the throttle body snorkel rubber tube and see if you have carbon build-up around the throttle plate in there, that would shut the air flow and cause a high-rich idle. Whats the recent mechanical history?
 
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