92' Toyota 4Runner Misfire issue?

fernando13e

New member
Hi guys, its been a long time since i last logged in, i was working outside the country and went to Uganda (no internet there :P), so when i came back home my brother told me that my old 92 4runner (which i love hehehe) was repaired in the meantime when i was outside, the cylinder number 1 wasnt working and the problem was the distributor itself not sending any spark to the spark plug number 1, now the problem i have is that if i slowly accelerate her while in Park position it stutters/hesitates/misfires, i can clearly see a variation of the RPM's in the tachometer, the check light is on and i have the code 21 Heated Oxygen sensor problem.

What i tried:

Changed spark plug wires (9 months ago i changed the spark plugs so i know they are new, unless they got deteriorated with time because i didnt drove the truck, can they get bad after a long time without using them?)
Changed distributor cap
Changed fuel pump/fuel filter
Cleaned injectors (this was done by the guy in the dealership)
Checked the Air filter for dirt and was OK, checked for vacuum leaks/air leaks, the EGR Valve hose has a veeery little air leak but the rest of the hoses are ok (can this cause a misfire?)

The weird thing is that i noticed that the misfire becomes present after the engine is warmed up after 5 to 10 minutes, and well this engine was rebuilt like 9 months ago, almost a year i think, since then i didnt drove the truck because of the cylinder number 1 not firing, and then i went out of the country and well, its been sitting on the garage until now after my brother solved the problem with the cyl 1.

Another problem i have is that when im reaching 40 mph the truck doesnt shift to 4th when i last gave it a test drive, im worried because i dont want to blow up the engine as the last owner did (3 times). Any help is greatly appreciated since i dont want to dump this beauty :(, i really love this truck.

Sorry for my english hehehe.
 
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I had the same problem on my 3rd gen, (I have a 2nd and 3rd gen). It ended up being a faulty fuel injector. I could drive 5-10 minutes then it would immediately start shaking, and throwing misfire codes.
 
Hi!, thanks for taking the time to read my post (many other forums doesnt have the same attention as this one :D), well in this 92 4runner is hard, but i mean, VERY hard to check for a faulty injector (the 3VZ-E is a very puzzling engine in terms of checking stuff) the weird thing is that it starts to misfire (i think) when the engine is up an running for about 8 minutes, and the check light is always on even after i start the engine, i checked for inconsistent sparks throughout all cylinders and the sparks were fine (when i disconnect the spark plug wire, the idle speed changes from cyl 1 through 6 one at a time and the whole truck starts to shake when i do that), i notice though that the car shakes a little bit in idle with intervals of 4 to 5 seconds (with all plugs connected), then it smooths out, if i hit the gas slowly it shakes more from idle speed to 3000 rpm's and well i think if there was a problem with an injector maybe the symptoms would be similar as if there was a bad spark plug could it?
 
Last edited:
the injector issue mentioned is called a heat soaked injector when the engine gets warm the injector casing warps and the spray is altered or the o-ring leaks air into the sytem.

as for the engine having issues with rpm change on warm up you need to do the following.
1. Download a Factory Service Manual. NOT A HAYNES MANUAL they are junk.
2. test the coil and ignitor and check they are in spec
3. replace all the old cracked hoses and vacuum lines( vacuum leaks make annoying problems.
4. test the fuel pressure regulator(to spec via FSM)
5. next move on to testing the EVAP control solenoids.
6. finally test the ECU itself the pin out might be causing the issue.

my opinion is that the engine code for the o2 sensor is being tripped by the RPM and idle issue. your EVAP system sounds like it needs help the FSM has the specs and tests for everything on your vehicle, you may need to get a new EGR or a new Idle air temp sensor your charcoal canister could be plugging the EGR tube.
get the FSM is has symptoms diagnosis and solution in a step by step testing of needs to be done to narrow down the problem.
dont trust your eyes trust your tools and test equipment.
and just for kicks try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds.
 
Hi, well i reset the ECU and its still giving me the code 21 heated oxygen sensor, i have a copy of the factory service manual so i can do my testing with the book at hand, i did test the igniter and coil and i got normal values comparing them to the specifications given by the manual, the air hoses dont have any leaks, but i suspect of the vacuum lines, there are 2 lines connected to the EGR Vacuum Modulator and one of them is completely broken, the little tube that sticks out from the modulator is broken, i dont think the EVAP system is bad, although i cant test it, tomorrow im going to test the fuel pressure regulator and listen if fuel is coming from the return hose, unfortunately i dont have any pressure measuring tool for this.. only thing i have is a multimeter :(
 
What a shame :(, the hose is not broken but the nipple of the EGR Vacuum modulator is, there were some vacuum lines that were partially connected, so i secured those, i noticed that the EGR Valve metal tube has leaks, so im going to have that soldered by the end of the week, another thing i saw is when i look at the exhaust i see that its a little bit wet on the bottom, i checked the spark plug number 1 (which is the cylinder i suspect is giving me problems) and the electrode was fine, the gap was fine too BUT it looked sort of oily (maybe carbon deposits?), i noticed that i can hear some sort of rattle too if i accelerate the engine quickly, this is on the right side of the truck (copilot side)
 
might be the start of head gasket issue.
replace all the old vacuum lines for starters a vacuum leak will cause many many headaches.
a rattle my be spark knock but could be lots of things like coolant dousing the cylinder fire,
improper timing and bad coil.
 
might be the start of head gasket issue.
replace all the old vacuum lines for starters a vacuum leak will cause many many headaches.
a rattle my be spark knock but could be lots of things like coolant dousing the cylinder fire,
improper timing and bad coil.


B_V always a plethora of knowledge, but also the bearer of bad news :(
 
Finally..

Hi guys, good news, i finally fixed those vacuum hoses and the EGR Valve tube soldered, although it helped a little to get a pretty stable idle i managed to adjust the idle speed to aproximately 800 rpms (almost exactly between the 1000 rpm mark on the tachometer and the lower stripe mark), the bad thing is that im still having issues within the low speed rpm range and idle, at idle the car shakes intermittently, if i open the hood i can see the engine moving from side to side, one veeery important thing i did which improved a lot my idle was cleaning the idle speed adjusting screw, which in fact i think it solved an issue i had when i shifted the shift lever from park to drive with the AC on, when the truck was warm enough and with the AC on and in drive position if i pressed the accelerator pedal and suddenly depressed it, the truck would die/stall, i appreciate any help you can give, as im afraid to go with a mechanic again..they charge me a lot of money every time i go with them, and they dont always solve my issue, leaving my truck worse than it was, do you think cleaning the throttle body would help me to solve my problem?.

Thank you guys.
 
Hi, well i removed the big vacuum hoses that were attached to the throttle body and well, what a surprise!, the hose that connects to the TB is cracked right below the pressure washer (the ring that secures the hose in), ill be getting one of those, as for the TB it wasnt very dirty but still i used carb cleaner and ran a quarter bottle in it, i cleaned the hole where the idle speed screw was and i got a more stable idle (or thats what i think) im thinking of removing the whole throttle body but im afraid of damaging the TPS or messing up the throttle intake, do you know what could improve my idle and eliminate my problems besides cleaning the TB and idle screw hole?, i got checked the oxy sensor and is working fine, i dont know why the ECU sends me a code 21 engine check light
 

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