94 4runner 3L blown....worth fixing?

jstach93

New member
My name is Jason, my brother recently blew up my 94 4runner and I'm wondering if its worth rebuilding, and if so should I rebuild it to factory specs or does anyone have any suggestions on possibly upgrading and adding more horsepower. If it helps I use it as a daily driver and I use it to off road a little. mostly pulling other people out of ditches. Really would appreciate some advice it my first vehicle, had it going on 3 years. :shrug:
 
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My name is Jason, my brother recently blew up my 94 4runner and I'm wondering if its worth rebuilding, and if so should I rebuild it to factory specs or does anyone have any suggestions on possibly upgrading and adding more horsepower. If it helps I use it as a daily driver and I use it to off road a little. mostly pulling other people out of ditches. Really would appreciate some advice it my first vehicle, had it going on 3 years. :shrug:

It depends on what is wrong with it. In my opinion, if it needs a full rebuild, it is not worth doing. Instead, a lot of poeple replace there 3.0l with the 3.4l that came in the next gen 4runner and Tacoma. It goes in with little modifications.

Do a little research and you will find dozens of threads that are near identical to yours.
 
I'm against 3.0 rebuilds. As said the 3.4L next-generation V6 is better in every way, and from what I hear the swap isn't that terrible.
 
I'm one of the few fans of the 3.0. If well maintained, it is a perfectly good engine with enough power to do the jobs it was built for. That being said, the 3.4L is a solid upgrade if you are looking for a little more power, but even if stock it does not yield that much more HP than the 3.0. If a serious upgrade in HP is what you want, then consider doing a swap with a Chevy 4.3 V6 or a 350 V8. Any engine swap will be more exspensive than just doing a rebuild on he 3.0.
 
I'm with Footofgod on this one, the 3.0 engine is a decent, reliable power plant is maintained correctly. It would be cheaper to rebuild what you have and install a set of headers (NWOR or the like) to safe guard the head gaskets for the future(and add a bit of hp).
regards
 
I've had 2 different 2nd gen 4runners both with the 3.slow. I've never been a fan of rebuilt engines on any car, but if you're limited on cash, buying a used 3.0 for about $300-$500 is cheaper than rebuilding it. I would love to get a 3.4L supercharged engine, but that would probably cost roughly $1000-$3000.
 
isn't the TRD kit 3k alone? I haven't been able to find any 3.4's that were cheaper than $1000

as mentioned before, depends on the damage.
 
Unless the damage is catastrophic, you can probably get away with rebuilding the top end yourself for $300-$500, and that's what I recommend if possible - you don't need anything fancier than basic tools, and it's good to know your motor (you'll get to know it well). A used motor in unknown condition will run you probably $400 to $800 depending, and a reman will go for at least $1000. You can add hours and hours of labor at probably $75-$100/hour if you choose to have a shop do the rebuild or replacement. If you're new to motors, I wouldn't consider a motor swap on your own - if you're flush with cash you could have it professionally done, but now you're talking thousands of dollars, and not the low thousands.

We can advise you better if you can be more specific - what does "blown up" mean? Is this a blown head gasket, or are we talking a hole in the block?
 
By "blown" I mean the head gaskets, warped heads, and a locked motor. Its more sentimental than what its worth. I have thought about a 2jz swap but the mods it would take are too much. A 350 swap would consist on a new tranny and axles, front and back. I'm in the USAF, just joined, so money isn't really a problem. I'm stationed around the Dallas area so the resources are kind of plentiful. The shop is only 20 bucks a day. So I guess it would come down to a rebuild or swap?
 
By "blown" I mean the head gaskets, warped heads, and a locked motor. Its more sentimental than what its worth. I have thought about a 2jz swap but the mods it would take are too much. A 350 swap would consist on a new tranny and axles, front and back. I'm in the USAF, just joined, so money isn't really a problem. I'm stationed around the Dallas area so the resources are kind of plentiful. The shop is only 20 bucks a day. So I guess it would come down to a rebuild or swap?

So, catastrophically overheated then. That sucks. You'll need more than a top end refresh, that's a complete rebuild you're looking at. If you have a hobby shop on base with a hoist and stand and such, you can still do it yourself way cheaper than paying a shop or buying a reman, but it'll take you a while if you're new to wrenching. Another option is to snag a junkyard motor - see if you can find a place that'll let you hear it run before they pull it.

It's a lot of blood sweat and tears just to have another 3.0 when you're done - it's not a bad motor, but consider upgrading. The Toyota 3.4 is a solid powerplant that's more powerful than the 3vze you've got now, and as far as swaps go it doesn't get much easier. I feel dirty saying it, but a Chevy 350 is also a good motor that can be had for cheap, and I'm pretty certain there's an aftermarket adapter or two out there that'll let you bolt it up to your existing drivetrain - you don't have to change transmissions if you don't want to. But again, a motor swap is not something you want to do for the first time by yourself unless you have lots of time to stumble through it.

The easiest option is to find another motor that already has a truck wrapped around it - when I holed the 22RE in my '86, that's what I ended up doing. I still had to replace the head in the new truck, but it was more within my means than installing a complete new motor in the old truck. It really comes down to how much you're ready to tackle, and how happy you were with the 3.0 before it blew. If that was enough motor for you, and you've got access to a shop on base, I'd roll your sleeves up and pull that block and see what you're looking at in there.
 
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Big Bucks

Today I paid my repair bill and took the SUV away from the shop. It cost me $3,854.75 for a rebuild of the engine. They replaced the head gasket, had the head machined elsewhere, put in a new timing belt and belt wheel, replaced the starter and rear main seal, and it runs great. I'm glad I put this behind me. I have not opened the hood, either. I took it 4 wheeling for a half hour and was pleased. We are having a spate of warm weather so I can't do a test of the cold starting, but so far it starts after only a few seconds. The service was prompt, too. They had the vehicle up on a lift as soon as I dropped it off. Ten days later I drove it away. For Cape Cod that is great!!! It's all a question of what you think it's worth. I wrote another post about this, but haven't seen it up. I'm sure I paid more than Kelly Blue Book value here.
 
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Today I paid my repair bill and took the SUV away from the shop. It cost me $3,854.75 for a rebuild of the engine. They replaced the head gasket, had the head machined elsewhere, put in a new timing belt and belt wheel, replaced the starter and rear main seal, and it runs great. I'm glad I put this behind me. I have not opened the hood, either. I took it 4 wheeling for a half hour and was pleased. We are having a spate of warm weather so I can't do a test of the cold starting, but so far it starts after only a few seconds. The service was prompt, too. They had the vehicle up on a lift as soon as I dropped it off. Ten days later I drove it away. For Cape Cod that is great!!! It's all a question of what you think it's worth. I wrote another post about this, but haven't seen it up. I'm sure I paid more than Kelly Blue Book value here.

Reading this again......Would you be interested in buying some ocean front property in Kansas?
 
$3800 is not unrealistist for a turn key job. I am looking at $3600 to have a shop do the same for me right now.
- Long block engine is $1500 - $2500 depending on where you get it
- Labor is quoted at $1200
- Parts like new belt, hoses, oil, filters, anti freeze, etc...
- if there is a problem, the shop deals with the engine builder on the warranty, shipping, etc...

A 5VZ swap is gonna run much more than this to have a shop do it and that's if you can even find anyone willing to take on a swap.

I have an automatic tranny so an engine only swap is not an option for me. I have found a few wrecked 3rd gens for $2000 - $2500 but I still gotta do the labor or pay a shop to do it and I end up with a used engine and drive train that may or may not have problems that I dont know about yet.

Is there anyone that make an adapter to mate a Chevy small block or a 5VZE to my 3.slow auto transmission?
 
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$3800 is not unrealistist for a turn key job. I am looking at $3600 to have a shop do the same for me right now.
- Long block engine is $1500 - $2500 depending on where you get it
- Labor is quoted at $1200
- Parts like new belt, hoses, oil, filters, anti freeze, etc...
- if there is a problem, the shop deals with the engine builder on the warranty, shipping, etc...

A 5VZ swap is gonna run much more than this to have a shop do it and that's if you can even find anyone willing to take on a swap.

I have an automatic tranny so an engine only swap is not an option for me. I have found a few wrecked 3rd gens for $2000 - $2500 but I still gotta do the labor or pay a shop to do it and I end up with a used engine and drive train that may or may not have problems that I dont know about yet.

Is there anyone that make an adapter to mate a Chevy small block or a 5VZE to my 3.slow auto transmission?

If you cannot do the work yourself then yes, a shop will be very expensive. Those of us that are grease monkeys have different opinions when it comes to paying someone a ton of cash to do what we can do for a fraction of the price. It's a plus side of being able to work on your own vehicles.

Check out advanced adapters. They make a few bell housings for the chevy 350 to toyota stuff. You don't need an adapter for your auto trannny to go to a 5vz block. The back side of the 3vz and 5vz are the same bolt patterns from what I understand.
 
If you cannot do the work yourself then yes, a shop will be very expensive. Those of us that are grease monkeys have different opinions when it comes to paying someone a ton of cash to do what we can do for a fraction of the price. It's a plus side of being able to work on your own vehicles.

Check out advanced adapters. They make a few bell housings for the chevy 350 to toyota stuff. You don't need an adapter for your auto trannny to go to a 5vz block. The back side of the 3vz and 5vz are the same bolt patterns from what I understand.

Oh dont get me wrong... I am a very capable mechanic. I am just tired of messing with it and my time is more valuable to me.

No... the 5VZ-E will not bolt up to my 3.0 automatic tranny. I would have to swap the engine/tranny/t-case from a donor 4runner... and I may still do this if I can find one that I can trust to be in good running/working condition.

Advance Adapters doesn't offer a way to bolt a Chevy or a 5VZ-E to my tranny... I don't think anyone does.
 
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If you're looking into the 5vz swap and keeping an auto tranny, why not use the auto tranny that comes behind the 5vz?
 
Just the extra cost I'm sure. I wouldn't have a problem with a 5vze swap, but personally I don't feel like having another project vehicle.

For that matter, with a 350 you would just need to get a 700r4 or 4l60e to toyota transfer case adapter.

Why not a Ford 302? it's smaller anyway. Distributor at the front if you use that style of engine....
 

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