'97 4runner to '99+ 4runner airbox/MAF conversion

[blarchitect]

Was looking to do this swap but the thread everyone refers to by Toytec on UY. is gone. Found some pics showing the MAF pinouts and colour coding but nothing on the rest of the mod. Anyone have a print out of it or pointer somewhere?

 

[toastybroski]

I know this is an old thread but I picked up an intake from a junkyard from a 2000 4runner (airbox, maf, tube, resonator). Can I just replace the intake on a 96 without any problems? I have been having issues with my k&n.

 

[rickmum]

What would be the upside of using a 99+ intake? Aside from fitment for a K&N which I don't need.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I know this is an old thread but I picked up an intake from a junkyard from a 2000 4runner (airbox, maf, tube, resonator). Can I just replace the intake on a 96 without any problems? I have been having issues with my k&n.

No you'll need to change the wiring on the MAF connector. If you clipped the connector off with it then you'll see how the wires need to go. If not, I think I saved a thread for when I swapped mine out.

Yeah here it is: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/222163-maf-conversion-wiring-02-maf-98-a.html. Basically you'll remove the little white piece in the connector, open the tab on each wire pin, pull them out the back of the connector, then take the black wire and put in in the slot between the red and white, moving all the rest of the wires down one slot. The white wire does not move.

It's not hard, just take you time and don't break anything.

 

[toastybroski]

What would be the upside of using a 99+ intake? Aside from fitment for a K&N which I don't need.

The upside was that was what they had at the junkyard? I think the MAF is cheaper if it ever craps out.

 

[toastybroski]

No you'll need to change the wiring on the MAF connector. If you clipped the connector off with it then you'll see how the wires need to go. If not, I think I saved a thread for when I swapped mine out.

Yeah here it is: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/222163-maf-conversion-wiring-02-maf-98-a.html. Basically you'll remove the little white piece in the connector, open the tab on each wire pin, pull them out the back of the connector, then take the black wire and put in in the slot between the red and white, moving all the rest of the wires down one slot. The white wire does not move.

It's not hard, just take you time and don't break anything.

That doesnt seem hard at all. I am not sure the exact year I got it from but there shouldn't be ECU problems right?

 

[gamefreakgc]

That doesnt seem hard at all. I am not sure the exact year I got it from but there shouldn't be ECU problems right?

Nope, none at all. You'll be getting better airflow to boot, I switched over for performance reasons.

And there's the side effect that the newer MAF's cost $90 new, where the old ones are $600.

 

[4bangr]

I did mine last weekend; no issues at all.

 

[toastybroski]

I did mine last weekend; no issues at all.

So I did this last weekend and it was very easy. Problem is I am getting a p0171 code. Did you run into this issue at all? It seems to be running great. The code popped up about 45 minutes after driving it. Are the vacuum lines on correctly? It is kind of confusing as there was a T junction with the vacuum hoses that is definitely not stock when the K&N was on there.

 

[habanero]

I've done it too, no problem, no codes.

Write-up on the connectors, wire placement, stuff:
Starts post#3325
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200/habaneros-1996-4runner-build-up-thread-201751/index167.html

The hoses appear to be correct as best as I can see [MENTION=236285]toastybroski[/MENTION]
I can't see your re-arranged wiring, pic is too blurry.

 

[toastybroski]

I've done it too, no problem, no codes.

Write-up on the connectors, wire placement, stuff:
Starts post#3325
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200/habaneros-1996-4runner-build-up-thread-201751/index167.html

The hoses appear to be correct as best as I can see [MENTION=236285]toastybroski[/MENTION]
I can't see your re-arranged wiring, pic is too blurry.

Most of the pictures I find online have nothing attached to the bottom nipple on the resonator. Most of those pictures also showing it as a solid piece and not a hole though. There was a T with the k&n.

 

[habanero]

[MENTION=236285]toastybroski[/MENTION]
You have that part right, basically you inserted the resonator where the T was, with that lower port hose leading to the nipple for the power steering....idle control, I believe it's called.

You have the wiring correct, too.

Did you clean the 'new' maf, especially the little tiny wires (they're hard to see)?

 

[toastybroski]

[MENTION=236285]toastybroski[/MENTION]
You have that part right, basically you inserted the resonator where the T was, with that lower port hose leading to the nipple for the power steering....idle control, I believe it's called.

You have the wiring correct, too.

Did you clean the 'new' maf, especially the little tiny wires (they're hard to see)?

I just did that and disconnected the battery. I only sprayed the ones I could see? They were completely black on the intake side. Really rough idle and low for a few starts but seems to be rising higher now. Put the vacuum lines back to how they were (no T). No check engine light yet...

 

[habanero]

I just did that and disconnected the battery. I only sprayed the ones I could see? They were completely black on the intake side. Really rough idle and low for a few starts but seems to be rising higher now. Put the vacuum lines back to how they were (no T). No check engine light yet...

Your air temp sensor (bulb-looking thing) is probably clean but the wires are likely still very dirty, they are really hard to see, especially when everything is black. They are tiny...look like what was in your old maf, but more hidden. You likely know, but I'll put a BE VERY GENTLE here for anyone reading. Some people will only use a maf cleaning spray and not touch them with anything, your call.

The Durk post#33 had some pics that might help...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/86675-help-p0171-3.html

 

[toastybroski]

Your air temp sensor (bulb-looking thing) is probably clean but the wires are likely still very dirty, they are really hard to see, especially when everything is black. They are tiny...look like what was in your old maf, but more hidden. You likely know, but I'll put a BE VERY GENTLE here for anyone reading. Some people will only use a maf cleaning spray, your call.

The Durk post#33 had some pics that might help...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/86675-help-p0171-3.html

Damn I didn't even clean that... Thanks.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Also check to make sure there's no cracks in the "accordion" section of the intake tubing. They can hide there and cause a vacuum leak.

 

[toastybroski]

Your air temp sensor (bulb-looking thing) is probably clean but the wires are likely still very dirty, they are really hard to see, especially when everything is black. They are tiny...look like what was in your old maf, but more hidden. You likely know, but I'll put a BE VERY GENTLE here for anyone reading. Some people will only use a maf cleaning spray and not touch them with anything, your call.

The Durk post#33 had some pics that might help...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/86675-help-p0171-3.html

So I cleaned that out and went for a drive to test it in the mountains. Was very happy with the responsiveness in the car and thought I was in the clear. P0171 came back at 32 miles from resetting the ECU. I don't know what else to do.

Could this cracking be the issue? I sprayed around the area and the idle didn't go up so I don't think its leaking. The connection for the top vacuum hose seems a little loose as well.

 

[habanero]

That looks pretty cracked. Repair and try again?

I have the MAF test procedure post# 778
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200/habaneros-1996-4runner-build-up-thread-201751/index39.html

The link that had the procedure for the newer style appears to be dead.
I modified their info to work for the 96's maf. Use the pictures and what you know about the wiring to test the newer maf.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So I cleaned that out and went for a drive to test it in the mountains. Was very happy with the responsiveness in the car and thought I was in the clear. P0171 came back at 32 miles from resetting the ECU. I don't know what else to do.

Could this cracking be the issue? I sprayed around the area and the idle didn't go up so I don't think its leaking. The connection for the top vacuum hose seems a little loose as well.

Those of the kind of cracks that will eventually cause a leak if they have not already. For that top hose you mentioned, I had to cut about 1/2" off and then refit it since the outside hose was so brittle from heat/oil exposure, mine leaked too.

You could try filling the crack with some black FIPG sealant if you have that laying around if you are on a tight budget.