97 - Broken Thermostat Housing. Any Experience?

[TheDurk]

As you may have seen, I got the nut off. The stud is still bent. I’m waiting for the new thermostat housing to come in now.

As far as heat, do you recommend I torch the end of the stud to heat it up and try to turn it out with vice grip pliers? I can’t exactly heat up near the engine where the stud is coming from. Do you think this should be enough? The stud appears pretty rusted.

Once the new thermostat housing gets here I plan on finishing the job. Hopefully I can thread the new stud in and slip it through the new housing and put a nut on and that’ll be enough to hold so I don’t have to replace the water pump that also broke where the stud slides through. The timing belt is new enough where I shouldn’t need to replace it. Plus it’s a hell of a job I really don’t want to do right now.

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]
[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

I agree that heat is useless until you get the WP off and can have a crack at the block around the stud. Heating the end of the stud really won't do anything useful. I know of no way to get that stud out if you can't get two nuts on it or weld a bolt to the end of it. That's why I gave up and just left it with two working stud/nuts. Sometimes retreat is your best option.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I would just try and use a very thin bead of FIPG on the housing until you can get the WP off.

Replacing with an OEM thermostat as well?

 

[plcfcng]

looking at the thermostat I would also change out the hoses that go to the oil cooler. Also look to see if your cool is leaking oil not usually a problem but if it is now is the time to take care of it.
hone:

 

[anormalflame]

I would just try and use a very thin bead of FIPG on the housing until you can get the WP off.

Replacing with an OEM thermostat as well?

I've only found one piece of the WP so far and it's pretty busted. I've ordered the OEM thermostat housing (water inlet). It's on the way. The thermostat you see in the pic is OEM.

 

[anormalflame]

Moving forward with the TB and WP

Okay so the double nut method did not work. I've hit a wall and come to grips with the fact that I'll have to pull the timing belt and water pump and most likely use heat to get the stud out of the engine. It's really bent.

I've searched the forum and everyone here says to get the 'AirCabinMan' kit from Ebay. I have a newborn coming in four weeks and have been looking at other options to save $$$. I'll also have to get the No. 1 lower timing belt cover with the 0-5-10-15 measurement. The numbered part broke off in the process of trying to get this stud out.

What are you thoughts on this ASIN kit for $185? I don't need the other belts or thermostat. All of the reviews are good that I've seen.

Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump

[MENTION=163346]plcfcng[/MENTION] [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]

 

[plcfcng]

Wishing I were closer I'd give you a hand with this. If you are trying to keep cost to a minimum here are some things to consider. It's a balance between funds and how bad things need to be replaced and the time you have to repeat anything if you don't replace it now. That being said if the water pump does not leak then just pull it and replace the gasket. The timing belt I would replace unless you have done that with in the last lets say 40,000 miles. If you do reuse the belt mark the direction to reinstall it in the same direction. (for that matter bring it to top dead center and mark the cam shafts and crank shaft positions.

The damaged stud you may have to straighten it to remove the pump. to do this put a nut back on the stud with a hammer get straiten it don't worry if it's not perfect. Go threw the steps to remove the pump you can then you can use one of these methods to remove the stud, if you are lucky the stud is only seated and not corroded in PB blast the base let it sit a hour or so. 1 vice grips or that small pipe wrench I mentioned or the double nut. (If it's not corroded these work 80% of the time. 2. Heat using the methods in (1) First use a map gas torch propane may work it's not as hot. Heat the block at the base of the stud and try spinning out the stud. If you don't have any one to help you I would check out a YouTube video or 2. Good Luck Mike
reggers:

 

[anormalflame]

Wishing I were closer I'd give you a hand with this. If you are trying to keep cost to a minimum here are some things to consider. It's a balance between funds and how bad things need to be replaced and the time you have to repeat anything if you don't replace it now. That being said if the water pump does not leak then just pull it and replace the gasket. The timing belt I would replace unless you have done that with in the last lets say 40,000 miles. If you do reuse the belt mark the direction to reinstall it in the same direction. (for that matter bring it to top dead center and mark the cam shafts and crank shaft positions.

The damaged stud you may have to straighten it to remove the pump. to do this put a nut back on the stud with a hammer get straiten it don't worry if it's not perfect. Go threw the steps to remove the pump you can then you can use one of these methods to remove the stud, if you are lucky the stud is only seated and not corroded in PB blast the base let it sit a hour or so. 1 vice grips or that small pipe wrench I mentioned or the double nut. (If it's not corroded these work 80% of the time. 2. Heat using the methods in (1) First use a map gas torch propane may work it's not as hot. Heat the block at the base of the stud and try spinning out the stud. If you don't have any one to help you I would check out a YouTube video or 2. Good Luck Mike
reggers:

The previous owner replaced the timing belt, but I'm not exactly sure when. I purchased it at 200k mi. I'm at 230k. I figured I'd go ahead the replace the timing belt. I planned on replacing the WP since the section where the stud slides through is now broken, and the new WP would make it more secure. I already have a new water inlet that I ordered last week.

Just curious if this ASIN kit seems like a good kit to others. It does to me and has great reviews form other T4R owners.

I've tried everything I can think of to get this stud out with the WP still on, but it wont budge. I'm worried if I continue without taking the old WP off it may break at the engine and then I have a whole new major problem.

 

[plcfcng]

The weak point is at the bend in the stud. Pull all the other bolts and wiggle the old water pump off as best you can. Then when you get the pump off go ahead and try to remove the stud. Griping it below the exposed threads. Give it a pull like I said above unless it's corroded it should pull out. If it does move with a reasonable amount of force ( I know thats hard to guess but do your best.) Try tapping on the stud forcefully while torquing on the stud. After that try the heat. Looking at the picture again you may not have enough hammer room. But try to get the pump off with bending the stud any more. If you have to use a deep well socket and a extension slip it over the stud and pull to straighten as little as possible as the bend looks to be at the base of the stud. (the bend becomes the weak spot) But you have to try it at some point and time.

A broken stud is not the end of the world just another process. If it come's to it you could sign up for AAA and have it towed and have it repaired. Cheaper to get AAA then having it towed without.

You can do it !!!:cheer2:

 

[gamefreakgc]

Okay so the double nut method did not work. I've hit a wall and come to grips with the fact that I'll have to pull the timing belt and water pump and most likely use heat to get the stud out of the engine. It's really bent.

I've searched the forum and everyone here says to get the 'AirCabinMan' kit from Ebay. I have a newborn coming in four weeks and have been looking at other options to save $$$. I'll also have to get the No. 1 lower timing belt cover with the 0-5-10-15 measurement. The numbered part broke off in the process of trying to get this stud out.

What are you thoughts on this ASIN kit for $185? I don't need the other belts or thermostat. All of the reviews are good that I've seen.

Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump

[MENTION=163346]plcfcng[/MENTION] [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]

That kit will work just fine. The OEM Aisin water pumps will have a spot where the casting mark was ground off (I forget why). The rest of the components are not as critical but Mitsuboshi is the OEM timing belt supplier. Idler pulleys don't go bad, neither do the hydraulic tensioners so you'll be good there. It also has the correct rubber tipped water pump gasket. Avoid any of those flat paper gaskets, they don't seal.

When you take the old water pump off you'll need to scrape the block surface smooth again with a razor blade, so pick up a couple (you will chip them) to get ready. If the surface isn't smooth it runs the risk of leaking. Pick up a set of wobble socket extensions and u-joints to make the job easier.

 

[Riceye]

This is the type of stud extractor you'll want to use.
Roller stud extractor

 

[plcfcng]

That kit will work just fine. The OEM Aisin water pumps will have a spot where the casting mark was ground off (I forget why). The rest of the components are not as critical but Mitsuboshi is the OEM timing belt supplier. Idler pulleys don't go bad, neither do the hydraulic tensioners so you'll be good there. It also has the correct rubber tipped water pump gasket. Avoid any of those flat paper gaskets, they don't seal.

When you take the old water pump off you'll need to scrape the block surface smooth again with a razor blade, so pick up a couple (you will chip them) to get ready. If the surface isn't smooth it runs the risk of leaking. Pick up a set of wobble socket extensions and u-joints to make the job easier.

I would spend the money for a good 6 point shallow 12 mm socket to remove that hard to get to Tensioner bolt if your going to snake it threw the AC compressor.

 

[brillo_76]

Great information fellows. It would be best to replace that WP. Carefully get that pump off then you can heat and hit that stud with penetrating oil many times before trying to extract that. Be sure after serveral cycles that stud is ice cold before trying to extract it.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[LittleCaesar]

Try a mix of 50/50 acetone and ATF as a penetrating lube.

If you have to remove the AC compressor, have a 14mm stubby ratcheting wrench for the bolts.

Good luck, congrats on the baby!

 

[brillo_76]

Try a mix of 50/50 acetone and ATF as a penetrating lube.

If you have to remove the AC compressor, have a 14mm stubby ratcheting wrench for the bolts.

Good luck, congrats on the baby!

ATF is an excellent penetrating oil. Would make a great choice.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[anormalflame]

That kit will work just fine. The OEM Aisin water pumps will have a spot where the casting mark was ground off (I forget why). The rest of the components are not as critical but Mitsuboshi is the OEM timing belt supplier. Idler pulleys don't go bad, neither do the hydraulic tensioners so you'll be good there. It also has the correct rubber tipped water pump gasket. Avoid any of those flat paper gaskets, they don't seal.

When you take the old water pump off you'll need to scrape the block surface smooth again with a razor blade, so pick up a couple (you will chip them) to get ready. If the surface isn't smooth it runs the risk of leaking. Pick up a set of wobble socket extensions and u-joints to make the job easier.

Thanks man. Glad to hear about the kit. I just wanted to be sure. And I definitely didn't want to spend an arm and a leg.

I already have some Toyota FIPG. If for some reason they send the paper gasket, I can always use the FIPG to seal it. I have some plastic razor blades and real scraper blade tools for this very thing. I'll be sure to clean it up real good.

I also have wobble socket extensions I inherited from my uncle this year (practically my dad.) He was a mechanic, and I now have all of his tools. So I'm all set on everything I need for the job for the most part. Thank you!

 

[anormalflame]

This is the type of stud extractor you'll want to use.
Roller stud extractor

Thanks for the tip!

 

[anormalflame]

Try a mix of 50/50 acetone and ATF as a penetrating lube.

If you have to remove the AC compressor, have a 14mm stubby ratcheting wrench for the bolts.

Good luck, congrats on the baby!

I'm going to try to avoid pulling it if possible. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks man! Looking forward to being Pops.

 

[anormalflame]

Thanks guys

Guys thanks so much for your help! This is why I love the 4Runner community. I can't tell you how much T4R.org has helped me over the years and with two different trucks.

I'm sure I'll hit a spot in this that I'll need help with, and I'll come back and let you know. This is the second TB job I've done on T4R, but it's been several years. It's tough doing this stuff without my mechanic uncle at my side these days, and your guidance here is the next best thing.

Thank you [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] [MENTION=163346]plcfcng[/MENTION] [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]

Sean and [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] from Timmy The Toolman and Eric The Car Guy for their help in DMs

Gonna tackle this job this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Anthrax]

How did u get that nut to break free OP? I'm dealing with same issues trying to remove thermostat housing. That nut stripped

 

[brillo_76]

How did u get that nut to break free OP? I'm dealing with same issues trying to remove thermostat housing. That nut stripped

May have to soak it in penetrating oil and heat it up a few times to get it to snap loose. They make nut and bolt extractors. Worst case you can use a dremel or cutting tool to cut the nut off.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk