97 Limited Brorunner Build (Pic Heavy)

[ridetime4]

Take the heads to a machine shop and have them cleaned. It's not very expensive for them to boil them and clean them up. For a little more you can get a valve job done with new seals, valves cleaned up etc. For the block, get a wet/dry shop vacuum and have at it. If you put a lot of crap down any of the oil passages I would consider removing the engine, tearing it down and getting the block steam cleaned like the heads. It means all new gaskets and bearings but if your cylinders and pistons are still good then it still shouldn't be too expensive. You are still miles ahead since the whole truck was so cheap.

Thank you brother I appreciate the info, went ahead and cleaned them up really well, grabbed some Lucas assembly lube and installed the new heads studs and gaskets.

She's coming together really well, total investment in Repair: $164

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[ridetime4]

We got the old oil drained, removed old filter, and got some new spark plugs.

A friend of mine gave me some awesome LEDs, and I added them to the 3rd brake light, license plate lights, front corner lights and interior. Totally worth it. Going to follow up with HIDs

Next up is hydraulic timing belt tensioner, removal and replacement, so we can pull the pin

After that we install cams, we're home free. Battery is charged....

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[ridetime4]

Update!

Went and made real progress today. We did the following:

Installed and timed Camshafts
Bearings on cams
Removed hydraulic tensioner
Compressed and set pin o n tensioner


We encountered a problem though with the low end...we went to turn her with a socket and breaker bar and have was not moving. Took some real torque to get her low but it's not smooth. I was told by my friend to pull spark plugs and put some marvel mystery oil, or ATF, or engine oil in to help.

She has been sitting for 2 months since I got here with her, and I'm a little worried because she wasn't this hard before.

Any ideas about how to free her up so I can set timing and tensioner??

Since im 2wd I was going to rip the oil pan off, and hit the bearings with some penetration and lube, and clean out pan.

Really hope it works out I want to get her running by tomorrow if this low end cooperates

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[ridetime4]

Can somebody send me the 97 4Runner 5VZ-FE (Factory Service Manual)??

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[ridetime4]

Well looks like I missed a step during the Install of the cams.

I learned here that the valves do have small shins that apply the appropriate lift to intake and exhaust valves.

During the transition from junk yard and shop we had a few fall out of their oiginal location, and I just slapped them back in...

Guess I gotta measure them all so I don't have tight exaust valve tolerance witch will burn a valve up in no time.

Big bummer. Can't believe I missed it ,glad I caught it now, and not after timing is set. Thoughts?

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[Bml_merris]

Awesome find for only $280. And goodluck with the build.

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[ridetime4]

Went ahead and adjusted the valve shims to the appropriate tolerances, and got one side all done.

We also got the timing belt tensioner setup with the pin, and now we're installing the new crankshaft seals, setting timing and reinstalling the remaining components. Should be easy and hopefully by tonight I can try and start her!

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[ridetime4]

Got the timing set today pulled the pin on the tensioner Everything went perfect had no problems whatsoever got a brand new pulley and a brand new belt with the cover and everything else back on got that upper intake manifold back on along with everything else so at this point is trucks almost ready to start I'm just waiting for a new thermostat and heater core hose and then we're going to turn the key I got a friend on the way right now with a section of line for me and hopefully he brings coolant and then we can go ahead and see what happens I'm going to do a live video feed on Facebook for all the people on my page but yeah man pretty excited it's time to finally see what we got here as far as the motors concerned it's been a really long drawn-out project but I saved a whole lot of money and it was just my time that I had to spend on it so for all you guys out there looking to go ahead and Tackle something like this I just got to say don't hesitate do it it's easier than you think

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[Tyler James Inc]

If you haven't started it, why are the marks on the belt not on the timing marks on the cams?


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[ridetime4]

We ended up going ahead and starting the engine today she started right up smoked a whole lot and ended up working great the air conditioning works the heater works everything works!

all we need to do now is repair one of the small lines for the coolant that goes up to the carburetor and then we need to just go ahead and put some more oil in it and run it she actually run super excited!!![emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji23]

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[ridetime4]

If you haven't started it, why are the marks on the belt not on the timing marks on the cams?


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We were just lining ewvrythin up to be sure, oil got on the belt and she jumped timing on me today

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[ridetime4]

So lol the story never ends, started her up today.

We threw some codes, ends up checking the timing, and the low end jumped way far way from the proper location. Unbelievable. I checked and checked and checked again and I don't know how she did it...

She still starts and all but sounds of a misfire. Well e found out. Instead of puling tensioner and vice compression, I'm buying Amazon tool, if I have to. I have a friend who might be able to lend me his tool.

So I learned it was because I did one of two things:

1. Accidentally moved crank counter clockwise to achieve 0° TDC

2. Didn't line up lower marks correctly, got oil on the belt

3. Hydraulic tensioner is failed

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[ridetime4]

New belt install proceedure:

Remove center bearing, turn crankshaft 2 revolution clockwise, to 0° TDC
Check belt, teeth & condition: and if any damage immediately replace
Removing tensioner from Vehicle to verify condition
(Must keep unit upright!!) Never tip upside-down
Alignment and install per Toyota FSM manual specs.

Gotta make sure the belts not damaged, or has any oil on it, or anything. When I went to start her we had a small coolant leak ontop engine and I learned that can make a belt jump timing.

Top cams are both spot on, just crank is 4 or 5 teeth off....ideas?

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[ridetime4]

Went ahead and reset her. Learned I did it incorrect in first place so I made double sure this time.

Poured some 5 gallons of 91 fuel in her, along with some fuel system restore and water remover. The gas was pretty old and you could tell, by the smell. Once we added the newer fuel the engine straighten right out and Idled perfect I mean perfect. Feeling very good knowing that she's running. Tomorrow, test drive, Wednesday arrange SMOG.

She starts around second kick, and under her own power. No jump needed. A/c is cold, heater hot, radio sound good! Tested cooling system by using Mac Tools pressure tester. She holds 12 LBS pressure doesn't leak down. Holding strong so far!

Besides all that I'm.having a issue with my rear hatch lock not working electronically, window quit working as well. Ideas?

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[ridetime4]

Also picked up a new programmable HAM radio, LED light bar, GPS, I had in storage. Now it's fine tuning and suspension over haul

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[ridetime4]

Went and Made a few changes and we got her running. Idle smoothed out, and drove her!

Emptied her out for test drive in about 30 or so. She's running!

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[ridetime4]

Truck is running flawlessly, starts right up, everything is working.

One issue, when we went to test drive her she got past Normal operating temps, so I shut her down before red.

We went home, and re-bleed the coolant system, and had lots of air come out, but she still crept up about normal and once again was shut down.

So upon learning about the thermostat, and the issues with hem, I'm going to just yank.it tomorrow, and go ahead with removing the thermostat, or drilling two small holes through like people were talking about it's these.

Gotta bunch of new coolant and .gonna take he radiator out and flush.

No check engine lights, or issues besides the ones discredited above. We shall find out won't we!?

Anybody have any ideas?

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[audiness]

make sure you install the "jiggle valve" on the thermostat in the correct position, otherwise it can cause overheating. Also use the FSM to test your tempature sender to make sure its working correctly.

 

[ridetime4]

make sure you install the "jiggle valve" on the thermostat in the correct position, otherwise it can cause overheating. Also use the FSM to test your tempature sender to make sure its working correctly.

Well tonight went back outside and drained the coolant, checked he radiator, making sure it wasn't clogged. Went and removed he thermostat, making sure my jiggle valve was correctly clocked....

This is when I learned that there wasn't a jiggle valve at all, I can't believe I didnt notice that!

Went ahead and removed it from the engine, and reassembled. She passed all the idle tests, heater on, the we tested it with A/C on. She stayed right where she supposed to be temp wise.

Took a nice cruise around town, getting up to 55, 60. Never puting more than half throttle the whole time. She barely needs pedal input, to get going. Very chipper motor lot of power!

Absolutely love it, had faith in the poor old girl. We treated her to some 91 VP fuel, new xenon 4000K headlights to match LEDs, and a thorough car wash.

She passed the test tonight! Went up to top of Mt Helix, no issues!

Going to take her further tomorrow, and begin to address the suspension, and shocks. We have the most tired springs on here, the upper a arm points upward not flat or Down lol, no bueno.

New HAM radio works perfectly, combination of roof antenna and handheld unit performs nearly as well as a higher dollar unit.

We will be now moving on to phase 2 of the build:

Beautification & Upgrades [emoji869][emoji869][emoji869][emoji869][emoji108][emoji108][emoji118]

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[ridetime4]

Update:

Go the thermostat in the truck, and slapped the race radio in the cab, routed the antenna Wiring.

Nearly 500 miles on the truck since the repair, and we got no problems, just a pescy check engine light...

From my shot out knock sensors I should have replaced. Apparently they have a fault code:

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