97 Limited w/ 218k miles and a big list of issues...what to do?

atalarico

Senior Member
Soooo, I've been putting off a trip to the mechanic to take care of a few of the bigger issues I knew was wrong with my truck, but were things that I wasn't super confident I could handle on my own. The only real big issues I thought were a shot passenger LCA bushing and leaking valve cover seal. The LCA bushing isn't something I have the tools or knowledge to handle, so I figured I'd start there.

Got a good recommendation from a friend (who owns and usually maintains his own 80s LandCruiser) for this place that works on older imports. Got a decent quote for the LCA bushing for $498 (about $200 less than everywhere else, and everywhere else kept saying replace the whole LCA for $150 more), so I dropped it off this morning and told them to look it over and let me know what's going on.

I know that's always going to come back with a big list, but...yikes. I think the list of what ISN'T leaking on my truck might be smaller.

1.) Both LCA bushings need to be replaced ($495 each side). They can only get one of the rear seals (apparently there's a front and rear LCA seal), so they're just going to do the side that's worse for today. I voted for the the side that I can hear metal grinding against when I turn the wheel and drive up a curb.

2.) Valve cover seal ($398) is leaking "pretty bad" (even though I maybe have to put in a quarter of a quart a month). I only wanted them to do this job because I didn't think there was much else on the list, and I felt like $400 to save me a whole day of frustration in the garage was worth it. Now that the list has grown, I'm just going to sack up and tackle this over a weekend. I'm going to just get a lot of colored sharpie pens and tape and just be super sure I plug everything back in to it's right place. From what I've read, if you can build a Lego set, you can do a valve cover seal job and I happened to love Legos. I'm not sure this is critical at this point, and I've gotten by for the last couple years that I've known about it.

3.) The steering rack, which I had replaced 4 years ago right when I bought the damn truck, has a torn boot. This apparently has allowed one of the seals to get trashed, and there is apparently no way of replacing just that. So it's $870 for the new rack to get installed (plus alignment).

4.) Rear left axle seal leaking. I'm surprised it lasted this long (218k miles). They said it leaked and saturated one the shoes, so I'd need new rear brakes (new shoes and resurface the drums) too ($188 for the seal replacement and $378 for the brake job). The other mechanic I used to go to has said on several occasions that my rear brakes were fine for the last 2 years. I would periodically check my rear tires for signs of leakage from the rear axle because I knew it was such a prominent issue with our trucks. While I haven't checked in a while, I'm going to be sure to take a look when I pick it up today and look for the telltale signs of liquid streaks on the inner side of the tire.

5.) Torn CV boot left inner. A little surprising because me and another T4R member rebuilt my original CV axles with CVJ silicone boots about 3 years ago and they've been going great ever since. It was a gigantic pain in the ass to reboot them, but it was a worthwhile experience to learn how to do it and replace a CV overall. I think I can manage this one on my own and just take it to CVJ and have them reboot it.

6.) Leaking front strut($485)?! I asked him for more specifics because I installed that lift kit (see signature for details, but Bilstein and Eibach springs). He said the "Spring mounts/shock absorber". Not really sure what that means, so I'm going to ask him to show me when I pick it up. That way I can contact Toytec and figure out if I can get any warranty help or what.

What the heck do I do? I love my truck and I don't want to think about having to get rid of it because of all of the things wrong now. I'd love to try and tackle a few of these with a friend, but I don't know anyone in Denver anymore to wrench with. It's also my only vehicle, and it's very difficult for me to get around without it. I'm also not sure which of these are mission critical and which I can put off.

To give you an idea of what I've done with help or on my own, and to gauge my abilities:
Lift kit, rebuilt CVs, inner/outer tie rods, LBJs, diff fluids, sparks/plugs, and other regular maintenance items.

Are any of these in the realm of possibility for me? Should I give up?
 
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Get a second opinion and then get to wrenching.

Yeah, which is funny because these guys were my third opinion and gave me the best price for the LCA bushings and didn't think I needed to trash the whole LCA just to replace a bushing. So, I guess that's why I'm posting about it here. =(

Anyone in Denver feel like making a new friend!? I come with beer and pizza (or whatever floats your boat) and an eagerness to learn! I think the last thing I'm really missing in my home garage is a hydraulic floor jack. I was shopping for one back in December, but I couldn't find one for the life of me that would have a high enough lift for my 3" lift! Maybe I was looking wrong, but I guess I should get one now.
 
I think the last thing I'm really missing in my home garage is a hydraulic floor jack. I was shopping for one back in December, but I couldn't find one for the life of me that would have a high enough lift for my 3" lift! Maybe I was looking wrong, but I guess I should get one now.
I use a 6x6 chunk of wood that is about 8" long under my floor jack. I would say buy a decent floor jack and use some wood to take up the gap. I also use 6 ton jack stands under my frame, mainly because they will stretch tall enough.
 
The real sad part for me here is that I've been going back and forth about what to do with my truck because my work commute might triple if a particular opportunity pans out in the next week. I was on the fence about whether to get a different commuter for work, but I had finally decided, "No, I'm just going to put the money into it. I like how she drives, she gets decent mileage, she does everything I need her to and then some, bla bla bla".
 
Your situation doesn't sound that bad. If you pick away at each thing one at a time, it shouldn't be too bad.

My valve cover is damp but not enough to actually make me lose a noticeable amount of oil. I haven't even bothered fixing it. My steering rack is totally shot, but I picked up a used rack for $200 on friday that looks to be in mint condition.

CV boots aren't a big deal. I drove mine around with tears for a while before fixing them. The grease slinging around is messy but its not a huge deal, especially in the dry summer months. This could wait until the other stuff is dealt with IMO

There are some very thorough write ups on here about how to replace axle seals. For the saturated brake, I would think that new shoes and a good cleaning with brake cleaner should be good enough.

The bilstein 5100's aren't very good. I've already replaced one of mine (luckily under warranty) because of a leak. Worst case scenario, you pay for a new strut. I think they are like $100 each. It definitely shouldn't cost $500.
 
Your situation doesn't sound that bad. If you pick away at each thing one at a time, it shouldn't be too bad.

My valve cover is damp but not enough to actually make me lose a noticeable amount of oil. I haven't even bothered fixing it. My steering rack is totally shot, but I picked up a used rack for $200 on friday that looks to be in mint condition.

CV boots aren't a big deal. I drove mine around with tears for a while before fixing them. The grease slinging around is messy but its not a huge deal, especially in the dry summer months. This could wait until the other stuff is dealt with IMO

There are some very thorough write ups on here about how to replace axle seals. For the saturated brake, I would think that new shoes and a good cleaning with brake cleaner should be good enough.

The bilstein 5100's aren't very good. I've already replaced one of mine (luckily under warranty) because of a leak. Worst case scenario, you pay for a new strut. I think they are like $100 each. It definitely shouldn't cost $500.

All good info. I think the initial shock of it has worn off and it has become a more "approachable" list. Do any of you guys think the prices for any of the bigger jobs (axle seal/shoes, and steering rack) are high?

I'm going to have to get a picture of the leaking Bilstein and contact ToyTec or Bilstein to inquire about a warranty then. It sounds like I might get lucky there.

*sigh* So it goes. Well, thanks for the reassurance, all! I'm still open to help in Denver if anyone's feeling particularly charitable and making a new friend!
 
I think your critical fixes are #1 and #6. Those could possibly pose a safety concern. The others range from "important but not critical" to "eh" (leaking valve cover). #4 and #3 are important, but they don't stop the truck from being safe and drivable. I have had non-functioning rear brakes since I have owned the truck; I've never had an "uh-oh" moment while braking. #2 and #5, eh, do 'em when you have a free weekend.

Coming from a guy who tends to look at my truck and think "what will I ever do, I have months of work to get done here"... Baby steps my friend :)
 
I think your critical fixes are #1 and #6. Those could possibly pose a safety concern. The others range from "important but not critical" to "eh" (leaking valve cover). #4 and #3 are important, but they don't stop the truck from being safe and drivable. I have had non-functioning rear brakes since I have owned the truck; I've never had an "uh-oh" moment while braking. #2 and #5, eh, do 'em when you have a free weekend.

Coming from a guy who tends to look at my truck and think "what will I ever do, I have months of work to get done here"... Baby steps my friend :)

Thanks for the insight! I'm glad I'm getting the LCA bushings done first then. A lot of my at home jobs turn into a hot mess because nothing ever seems to go right. I feel like Dr. Grant when he touches a computer in Jurassic Park!

I think the logistics are what screw me up too. I don't have another car to drive to pick up parts when I realize I need them during the job, or when I take the part off the car that needs to get worked on off-site. I don't really have any friends that are into monkeying around either, so it's either bike or rent a car I guess.
 
That does make it tough. One thing I have learned in that situation, buy lots of extra parts and know that you will just return the stuff that isn't needed. Other than that, there isn't much you can do besides what you are doing.
 
Here's what it should cost you if were to do the work yourself. These are all very simple fixes, with plenty of DIY documentation.

1.) $39.99 poly bushings + $70 for alignment.

2.) $25 valve cover gasket

3.) $500 steering rack from Safari

4.) $120 for drum kit, $7 for oil seal

5.) $193 for OEM inner CV joint

6.) $90 for new Bilstein 5100


There, we just fixed your whole truck for $1045. Doing the work yourself pays!

Put the money you'd save into a small beater car to get parts and drive when your 4runner is down. I'm partial to small VW TDI's :D
 
I'm a novice and can tell you if you take your time, have tools, can follow directions you can definitely do the rear axle seal and rear brakes. Great DIYs on here.

Have you tried tightening your VC bolts? Was recommended to me when I was newer to 4runners and it worked. Not too tight just a little. I was told wrist tight but there are plenty of DIYs on here with the actual value.
 
Put the money you'd save into a small beater car to get parts and drive when your 4runner is down. I'm partial to small VW TDI's :D

I also second that. I had an 01 Golf TDI for 11 years and 267k. 50mpgs actual for the life of it. If you have a commute you can't go wrong.
 
Here's what it should cost you if were to do the work yourself. These are all very simple fixes, with plenty of DIY documentation.

1.) $39.99 poly bushings + $70 for alignment.

2.) $25 valve cover gasket

3.) $500 steering rack from Safari

4.) $120 for drum kit, $7 for oil seal

5.) $193 for OEM inner CV joint

6.) $90 for new Bilstein 5100


There, we just fixed your whole truck for $1045. Doing the work yourself pays!

Put the money you'd save into a small beater car to get parts and drive when your 4runner is down. I'm partial to small VW TDI's :D

The LCA bushings may be cheap, but isn't the job a real pain without a special press?
 
The LCA bushings may be cheap, but isn't the job a real pain without a special press?
Great question. You can either rent a press from your local autoparts store for free. Or make one out of threaded rod, flat washer, and a large socket from your local hardware store. Or you could take the arm with your new bushings to a local machine shop and have them press in the new bushings for ~$40.
 
Is a ball joint press the same tool that is needed to press out/in LCA bushings? One of those huge C-clamps, or is it a different tool?
Thanks, I'm looking into doing this.
 
Go to a junk yard and get everything from a low mile truck.

1.) Both lower control arms About $80-100

2.) $25 valve cover gasket YES! I bought a pair today from a member

3.) $500 steering rack from Safari, buy a low mile steering rack $80?

4.) $120 for drum kit, $7 for oil seal

5.) $193 for OEM inner CV joint (find aftermarket from ebay $70 shipped)

6.) $90 for new Bilstein 5100 YES!

Do everything by yourself. I will be in Durango CO in sometime July and I know it is still far from Denver.
 
Thanks for the insight! I'm glad I'm getting the LCA bushings done first then. A lot of my at home jobs turn into a hot mess because nothing ever seems to go right. I feel like Dr. Grant when he touches a computer in Jurassic Park!

I think the logistics are what screw me up too. I don't have another car to drive to pick up parts when I realize I need them during the job, or when I take the part off the car that needs to get worked on off-site. I don't really have any friends that are into monkeying around either, so it's either bike or rent a car I guess.

I am often in the same boat. My 4runner is also my daily driver and there have been many times where I have to fix something on a tight time budget so I can get to work on monday.

For me, it has come down to careful planning and always preparing for the worst. The DIY write ups on the forum here can help a lot with this. Make sure to have all of the necessary tools and parts ready to go. Before I start any job, I always take some time to think about all of the things that could possibly go wrong and plan accordingly. For example, a stubborn or hard to access bolt can quickly turn a 2 hour job into an all-day affair with lots of cursing and stress (ask me how I know). The solution: Spray all bolts ahead of time with penetrant and have a large pry bar and the proper wrenches for tight quarters ready to go.

Learning to do your vehicle maintenance yourself builds so many good skills that carry over to many other areas of life. Not to mention, theres no tow truck or mechanic shop when you're 20 miles into the bush 4x4ing...
 
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Thanks for the encouragement, all! I'm going to take them on one-by-one and try to figure out the solution that works best that considers my time/skills/money/etc. Unfortunately I wish it were as simple as "just do it", but I'm one of those people that it just isn't that simple for.

Who knows, I might get lucky and be able to get the Bilstein's warrantied!

Thanks again, all. :yo:
 
Thanks for the encouragement, all! I'm going to take them on one-by-one and try to figure out the solution that works best that considers my time/skills/money/etc. Unfortunately I wish it were as simple as "just do it", but I'm one of those people that it just isn't that simple for.

Who knows, I might get lucky and be able to get the Bilstein's warrantied!

Thanks again, all. :yo:
You got a laptop right? If you install Skype, I can help you with repairs over the air, so to speak. When you get stuck, hit me up on Skype and I'll help you. Easy since I'll be able to see exactly what you're looking at.
 

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