97 SR5 in Central Jersey

Need some help here. Last weekend I had to drive on the highway for around 50 miles and noticed 2 issues.

1. While braking at highway speeds, I get strong and steady vibrations from the wheels - this I am pretty sure must be due to the warped rotor issue which is prominent in the 3rd gens
2. On cruising speeds >60 mph, there is a continuous vibration from the steering wheel - what might be the reason for this? I suspect wheel alignment issue as the truck slightly swerves to the right when I leave the steering at cruising speeds

Your advise would be appreciated.

1.) Rotors
2.) Could be a wheel balance issue, easy fix. Or, more likely IMO, inner tie rod ends. If it is the ITRE's, do the outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints at the same time unless you know for sure they've been done recently.
 
1.) Rotors
2.) Could be a wheel balance issue, easy fix. Or, more likely IMO, inner tie rod ends. If it is the ITRE's, do the outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints at the same time unless you know for sure they've been done recently.

Thanks. I would be going for the wheel alignment mostly this weekend. Hope to get the tundra upgrade pretty soon!
 
Couple of updates.

I replaced the bulb in both the roof dome lights with 12 LED Panels. Got em really cheap (a dollar) from China - QZO LED SMD Car Bright Interior Dome Panel Lights C | eBay

Some new minor issues have cropped up on my car -

1. The driver side door cannot be locked with the key, unlock works fine. The door can also be locked with the lock button or through the key on passenger side door.
2. The key is getting stuck in the ignition switch in on position a few times. It happened for the first time a few days back, but was able to remove it after a few on-off flicks. Then at home I sprayed the keyhole with WD40 pretty well and added 3in1 oil, thought the issue is resolved. But today again it got stuck, was able to get it out after some efforts. Not sure whats wrong. One thing to note, the keys which I got were not original, were "ilco" branded copies, pretty worn out.
3. One more observation when I was struggling to get the key out from ignition while repeatedly moving it from on to ACC position. When the key is in ACC position and all the warning lights come up, I hear 3 faint clicks and a small suction sound before the ABS light turns off. It happens every time however none of the warning lights stay on after I start the ignition. Is it normal ABS sound? I never heard it so far as the annoying power antenna motor spins everytime to push up my non existing antenna! :) Today I turned off the radio when I was working on getting the key out.
4. After the a short drive when I parked my car, I hear really light vibration kinda sounds coming from left corner under the hood near the windshield. I opened the hood and pretty sure its coming from the part highlighted in the below image (not mine, courtesy google images). The sound (light ghrr.. ghrr.. ) comes in a rhythm which gradually decreased as the engine cooled down. Whats that?

Please pardon my ignorance if my posts make no sense. I am really a newbie when it comes to mechanics and this is like my first real truck.
 

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That's your charcoal canister. Probably just hearing pressure venting from the fuel system.

That sounds assuring, so nothing serious. Any help on the other issue which I noted? I was thinking of getting a genuine Toyota replacement key from the dealer to see if it fixes anything. But not sure how much they charge for that!
 
New key should help. The clicking sound is most likely relays going on and off. If everything works, don't worry about it.

I believe a new key cut using your VIN # is like $12, they're not coded/chipped keys.
 
New key should help. The clicking sound is most likely relays going on and off. If everything works, don't worry about it.

I believe a new key cut using your VIN # is like $12, they're not coded/chipped keys.

Thanks for your prompt replies man. I really appreciate that.

While I was researching more on this key issue, looks like its not an uncommon one. I found quite a few threads where people confirmed the stuck key is not due to a lock cylinder or key issue but due to a bad solenoid or the gear shifter position switch. But still will get the new key if it costs just 12 bucks.

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/key-stuck-ignition-98-4runner-53723/index2.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/269-3rd-generation-1996-2002/357241-key-gets-locked-ignition.html

Some info on the solenoid -
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/key-wont-come-out-whats-part-150117/

Found one helpful thread on this forum as well -
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...gnition-computer-shift-lock-control-help.html
 
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If you guys are on Facebook you should join the Northeast 4runners Owners Associtian group

Thanks for sharing this man. I will join the page, however I am not really active on Facebook.


Got a few updates to share from the last weekend -

1. Opened the gear shift console to check if there is any contact issue causing the key to get stuck. Found everything in order, just tightened all screws and covered it back. The key still gets stuck but I know the trick of shifting from D to P in a particular way to get the key out. I guess I will need to disconnect the solenoid near the ignition lock to fix this for once and all, but I did not find any writeup on that. Any help?

2. Good news! The previous owner already had installed an external trans cooler! Actually its as big as the radiator and I never realized that it was there. I was looking closely at the mounting points as I was planning to do one myself.

3. The driver side door still does not locks by the key, it opens fine though and also locks fine by the button or the passenger side door lock. I guess I will have to open the door panel to check the issue.

4. I found 2 coupons on the Toyota owners website for a dealer close to me, 1 for 19.99 oil change and other for free wheel alignment and since I went to the dealership for the first time, they did a complimentary 30 point checkup. Catch here was that the wheel alignment was only limited to checking not fixing it and the oil change was only up-to 5 qts - this is normal, had to pay a few extra bucks. Good news is that they did not find any major issue with the truck! Suggested the following things only which I politely declined and decided to fix it myself -
A. AIR FILTER $29.95 - I would be ordering this online. Are Champion filters good enough?
B. BRAKE LIGHT BULBS $34.95 - Got replacement Sylvania for 7.5 bucks a pair from AAP, changed in 5 minutes
C. BRAKE FLUSH $129.95 - Not sure if its needed, dealer must just be looking for ways to get my money
D. COOLANT FLUSH $129.95 - Same as C
E. WHEEL ALIGNMENT $129.95 - Will get it done sometime soon
After I reached home, noticed that the idiots there had not topped of the Coolant and its below the low mark, need to get it. I have read Zerex Asian is good, correct?

5. Changed all the wipers. Fronts were easy and for the rear I used the same arm and replaced the rubber from the older passenger side wiper which was in decent condition
 
help

help my name is adam im new to this site i have a 1998 toyota 4 runner SR5 does anyone know where to buy grabber tires and cheap install in oceanside ca
 
help my name is adam im new to this site i have a 1998 toyota 4 runner SR5 does anyone know where to buy grabber tires and cheap install in oceanside ca

Hello Adam, welcome to the forum. I suggest you post in any tire related thread or create a new one, you will get better responses.

...
1. Opened the gear shift console to check if there is any contact issue causing the key to get stuck. Found everything in order, just tightened all screws and covered it back. The key still gets stuck but I know the trick of shifting from D to P in a particular way to get the key out. I guess I will need to disconnect the solenoid near the ignition lock to fix this for once and all, but I did not find any writeup on that. Any help?
...
3. The driver side door still does not locks by the key, it opens fine though and also locks fine by the button or the passenger side door lock. I guess I will have to open the door panel to check the issue. - Is there any writeup?
...
Are Champion filters good enough?
...
I have read Zerex Asian is good, correct?

Guys any advise on the above things???
 
My key won't lock my T4R or my previous Tacoma.. Idk, I thought it was normal.

And do you mean oil filters?
 
Thanks for your prompt replies man. I really appreciate that.

While I was researching more on this key issue, looks like its not an uncommon one. I found quite a few threads where people confirmed the stuck key is not due to a lock cylinder or key issue but due to a bad solenoid or the gear shifter position switch. But still will get the new key if it costs just 12 bucks.

Key stuck in ignition 98 4runner - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums
Key gets locked in ignition - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Some info on the solenoid -
Key won't come out, what's this part?? - YotaTech Forums

Found one helpful thread on this forum as well -
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...gnition-computer-shift-lock-control-help.html

Fixed this issue. Well not exactly fixed but atleast the key would not get stuck again. I just disconnected this solenoid mentioned here -

Key won't come out, what's this part?? - YotaTech Forums

Did not removed it, just unscrewed it and turned it around halfway so that it does not touches the black switch - used only one screw instead of two. Now the key would come out in any gear, hope it does not gets stuck anymore.

See photo for the same part from yotatech.
 

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2. Good news! The previous owner already had installed an external trans cooler! Actually its as big as the radiator and I never realized that it was there. I was looking closely at the mounting points as I was planning to do one myself.

Can't believe I'm so dumb!!! It was not a cooler but the ac condenser!! :der:

Now I'm looking forward to get a transmission cooler at the earliest. I was thinking of getting the Hayden 677 as I never tow or go wheeling. Will it be good enough considering NJ weather?
 
Can't believe I'm so dumb!!! It was not a cooler but the ac condenser!! :der:

Now I'm looking forward to get a transmission cooler at the earliest. I was thinking of getting the Hayden 677 as I never tow or go wheeling. Will it be good enough considering NJ weather?

I run a cheapo $30 Hayden and haven't had any issues. Most on here like the B&M 70264 or 70268. You can find em on amazon for ~$60.
 
I run a cheapo $30 Hayden and haven't had any issues. Most on here like the B&M 70264 or 70268. You can find em on amazon for ~$60.

If your truck can manage with the Hayden, mine definitely can! Mine is just a daily driver for now, all stock and boring stuff.

I was not really worried about overheating, I was rather worried about the overcooling as the Haydens' dont have a bypass mechanism. Looking to get this - Hayden Automotive 677 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler : Amazon.com : Automotive

BTW, your build thread is great.
 
Okay, so I placed the order for this - Hayden Automotive 677 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler : Amazon.com : Automotive Hope its a good choice.

This week I got the ELM327 device I ordered for my runner. Unfortunately it does not works :( Mine is a 97 model but bought in 96, not sure if OBDII was not standard that time. The same adapter works fine on a 2006 Civic. Was anyone able to use the ELM327 module on their 97 runner SR5 successfully? This is the one I have - New Bluetooth BT Mini ELM327 V1 5 OBD II OBD2 Auto Car Diagnostic Scanner Tool | eBay

Now that the winter has arrived, I was thinking of getting a remote starter installed. Any recommendation on that?

.
 
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Just wanted to post some updates. I never really got a chance to install the transmission cooler, its still lying in the package in the trunk, let me know if anyone is interested. :D

BUT, I got inspired with this nice guide here http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/171072-guide-radiator-thermostat-replacement-noobs.html and replaced my radiator. Ordered a Denso from amazon earlier but it came in damaged so returned it. Dint want to take a chance again and got one locally from Advanced Auto and its pretty good.

Now that I have some money to spend, I thought of splurging on tires. Ordered a set of 265/75 R16 Cooper ATP's from Discount Tire, should be here on Tuesday!

Really looking forward to get them installed and try my hand on wheeling if I can. Anyone recommendation for a place around central jersey? Where in NJ you guys go for wheeling? :driving:
 

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