99 injector replacement questions

Might have missed this, but are there any codes? Very odd for it to idle rough and not throw a code, so you might have one pending.
 
Might have missed this, but are there any codes? Very odd for it to idle rough and not throw a code, so you might have one pending.

No CEL and no codes, as of yesterday. I agree that there might be one pending. I am resetting the ECU now, just in case it is running based on previous problems.

My main problem is that the thing is not driveable. That might(?) let the ECU "settle" on parameters based on how it runs with the new parts. I can only let it idle in my driveway.

My other problem is that I have no money to keep "shotgunning" parts, and especially the prohibitively expensive injectors. I Have to have a running vehicle to get to a new job I might get, and I have no spare money because I have no job. Talk about a catch-22.
 
Last edited:
No CEL and no codes, as of yesterday. I agree that there might be one pending. I am resetting the ECU now, just in case it is running based on previous problems.

My main problem is that the thing is not driveable. That might(?) let the ECU "settle" on parameters based on how it runs with the new parts. I can only let it idle in my driveway.

My other problem is that I have no money to keep "shotgunning" parts, and especially the prohibitively expensive injectors. I Have to have a running vehicle to get to a new job I might get, and I have no spare money because I have no job. Talk about a catch-22.

If it isn't throwing any codes then I'd say your injectors are ok and time to look else where. The pdf file is a 'symptoms' chart from the 2000 FSM. Should be similar to your '99. It list a cpl of things under 'rough idle' that don't throw codes. Also a clogged fuel filter or the fuel pump or the fuel pump circuit may be going south....hope this helps somewhat anyway.....
 

Attachments

If it isn't throwing any codes then I'd say your injectors are ok and time to look else where. The pdf file is a 'symptoms' chart from the 2000 FSM. Should be similar to your '99. It list a cpl of things under 'rough idle' that don't throw codes. Also a clogged fuel filter or the fuel pump or the fuel pump circuit may be going south....hope this helps somewhat anyway.....

Thanks very much. Gives me some things to think about and look into.

I replaced my original fuel filter maybe 10-15k miles ago. Then again, I bought it at O'Reilly, so a dud is possible there. Fuel pump is possibility too.
 
No CEL and no codes, as of yesterday. I agree that there might be one pending. I am resetting the ECU now, just in case it is running based on previous problems.

My main problem is that the thing is not driveable. That might(?) let the ECU "settle" on parameters based on how it runs with the new parts. I can only let it idle in my driveway.

My other problem is that I have no money to keep "shotgunning" parts, and especially the prohibitively expensive injectors. I Have to have a running vehicle to get to a new job I might get, and I have no spare money because I have no job. Talk about a catch-22.

K just don't reset it again after this, so it can actually throw a code. I agree it might be keeping old fuel trims. If money is tight, we need a code to pinpoint the issue.
 
K just don't reset it again after this, so it can actually throw a code. I agree it might be keeping old fuel trims. If money is tight, we need a code to pinpoint the issue.

Yep. Not resetting it. Just starting it periodically in my driveway. Maybe it needs a certain number of on/off cycles to gather info. I am afraid to actually drive it, though, and have it just quit running on the road.

I really appreciate all the help on this (and my other previous problems). Without all of that, I would have never figured out that my apparent blown head gasket was really just an injector. I wouldn't have figured out that a $30 contact in my $400 starter was the problem. I wouldn't have figured out that I could fix my $1,500 drive shaft (bad, non-replaceable and non-greasable u-joints, which I surgically replaced with maintainable ones). And a few other quirks on this old dinosaur that I love. I plan to keep her for another 10 years or so.
 
Also, Magmotor - that .pdf file is only that one page, and clicking on the "see page" links won't take it anywhere. Do you happen to have any of those other pages, such as EM-3 and DI-314?
 
Thanks for the additional pages, Magmotor.

Ok, I now have an update, after several on/off's in my driveway. Still no CEL, but I am getting a P0305, which shows a Cyl 5 misfire.

Now I need to find out if it is that injector, or the coil for that cylinder. Recently new NGK plugs and wires, so I don't much suspect those.
 
Been a couple of years since I messed with the plugs/wires/coils, so I don't recall what it all looks like, especially with the coil-on-boot thing.

Does each coil supply 2 cylinders, meaning would I need 3 coils? At 185,000 miles, I should probably replace them all, instead of just the one for cylinder 5.
 
Been a couple of years since I messed with the plugs/wires/coils, so I don't recall what it all looks like, especially with the coil-on-boot thing.

Does each coil supply 2 cylinders, meaning would I need 3 coils? At 185,000 miles, I should probably replace them all, instead of just the one for cylinder 5.

You're correct. 3 coils.
 
Thanks for the additional pages, Magmotor.

Ok, I now have an update, after several on/off's in my driveway. Still no CEL, but I am getting a P0305, which shows a Cyl 5 misfire.

Now I need to find out if it is that injector, or the coil for that cylinder. Recently new NGK plugs and wires, so I don't much suspect those.
You can try swapping 2 coils around and see if the misfire code follows the coil

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
You can try swapping 2 coils around and see if the misfire code follows the coil

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

That's my plan. At 185k miles, I know I should probably replace them all, but if I do and still have a problem, I couldn't forgive myself for not pinpointing this expensive problem.
 
That's my plan. At 185k miles, I know I should probably replace them all, but if I do and still have a problem, I couldn't forgive myself for not pinpointing this expensive problem.

The Denso 673-1201 Ignition Coil is like $50-60 on Amazon and well worth the piece of mind.

Do not buy the $50 coil 3-pack, those are not OEM quality

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Another update

I just installed the Denso 673-1201 coils I got from RockAuto. Fired it up and it purred like a kitten. I was grinning, until I was going down the road on a test drive and it started missing again. Getting a CEL and P0305 again.

After it cools down, I will switch out rebuilt OEM injector #5 for the old one. If the problem goes away, then Bingo. Then I will return that faulty rebuilt one to FiveOmotorsports and get another. If swapping injectors doesn't work, then the problem becomes really mysterious.

A smart person learns from his mistakes. A real smart person learns from other people's mistakes. So, anyone reading this, learn from my dumbassedness.

I don't feel too smart right now, after spending money that didn't have to be spent just yet. I know I should have investigated more before spending money, but what I did made sense in my head at the time.
 
Spark plug #5 (NGK BKR5EKB) looks ok. Not new looking, but not bad. It looks about the same as #3. Since #5 is fired directly from the coil boot, there is no plug wire to suspect. Plus, the coil is a brand new Denso.

Besides a faulty newly rebuild OEM injector, what might cause a misfire in only cylinder 5?

The only remaining thing I can think of doing is swapping injector #5 with one of the old ones and see if the problem goes away. Or swap 2 of the newly rebuilt ones and see if the misfire moves to another cylinder. Either way, I have to remove the intake plenum yet again, and twice, to finally fix the problem if it is an injector.

Any other ideas?
 
Last edited:
I like your plan of putting in an old injector in #5... if it was me, that's what I would do.

the good news is, IF it works like it's supposed to, then your car will be up and running while your replace the part and you can schedule down time, instead if the broken part making an unscheduled down time.

the only other thing I can think of is a fuel rail obstruction or fuel pressure regulator...

BTW... I would never run NGK plugs, I'd go Denso from dealer only. I would replace those asap.
 
Last edited:
Have used the same NGK plugs for over a decade. No problem here.

If the old injector doesn't work to cure the problem, a compression and leak down cylinder test may be in order.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,078
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top