99 power antenna - can I remove the fuse?

T

traylorr

New member
Hey there:

My power antenna for my 99 has bit the dust. I have the replacement mast coming, but every time I turn on the vehicle, the antenna just makes a really loud grinding and will not raise without assistance.

So, what I need to know is this. It will be a while before I can find time to actually replace the mast. I don't want the noise with me all the time and I only listen to Sirius or my iPod. Is there a fuse I can remove to turn off the power assembly temporarily? If so, will it shut off anything else?

Thanks
 
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traylorr said:
Hey there:

My power antenna for my 99 has bit the dust. I have the replacement mast coming, but every time I turn on the vehicle, the antenna just makes a really loud grinding and will not raise without assistance.

So, what I need to know is this. It will be a while before I can find time to actually replace the mast. I don't want the noise with me all the time and I only listen to Sirius or my iPod. Is there a fuse I can remove to turn off the power assembly temporarily? If so, will it shut off anything else?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I think you can just disconnect the wire from back of the H/U.
 
You can forget fuses. The antenna circuit actually takes power from THREE fuses, DOME, ACC and ECU-IG, and all of them power a bunch of other stuff. If you can find the A23 relay under the dash, you can unplug that. It's to the left of the radio location, somewhere. It has a gray plug with 8 wires. You can see its wire colors on the attached.

Or, as suggested, disconnect at the H/U. It will be a blue wire on most aftermarket H/U's, connecting to a black/white wire on the truck side harness. If stock, there will be a black/red if there is an onboard amp, or a black/white if there is not.
 

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install an on/off switch.
easy.
search for how to.
even with the replacement, you can stop it from constantly extending and retracting.
 
If your going to be replacing your antenna anyways, just pull back the fender liner and unplug the power antenna. There is a disconnect right near the top of the wheel well. I would suggest getting the standard replacement assembly instead of the power antenna.
 
TheDurk said:
You can forget fuses. The antenna circuit actually takes power from THREE fuses, DOME, ACC and ECU-IG, and all of them power a bunch of other stuff. If you can find the A23 relay under the dash, you can unplug that. It's to the left of the radio location, somewhere. It has a gray plug with 8 wires. You can see its wire colors on the attached.

Or, as suggested, disconnect at the H/U. It will be a blue wire on most aftermarket H/U's, connecting to a black/white wire on the truck side harness. If stock, there will be a black/red if there is an onboard amp, or a black/white if there is not.
Click to expand...

Pulling the DOME fuse will stop if from operating, but as you said you're going to lose other stuff with that. Dome lights at the very least, but there's probably some other stuff tied into that circuit too.
 
eanema said:
If your going to be replacing your antenna anyways, just pull back the fender liner and unplug the power antenna. There is a disconnect right near the top of the wheel well. I would suggest getting the standard replacement assembly instead of the power antenna.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I would say. I did the same thing a while ago and would rather pull a fender liner than a HU.
 
GVL said:
Exactly what I would say. I did the same thing a while ago and would rather pull a fender liner than a HU.
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I've done both and I disagree. Those liner clips are a beyotch, almost always break when you pull them, which is not easy, and you carve your hands up working in behind there. Flares make it worse. Pulling the H/U is a walk in the park. I've done it three times since I bought the truck in '99.
 
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TheDurk said:
I've done both and I disagree. Those liner clips are a beyotch, almost always break when you pull them, which is not easy, and you carve your hands up working in behind there. Flares make it worse. Pulling the H/U is a walk in the park. I've done it three times since I bought the truck in '99.
Click to expand...

I just broke the clips off intentionally rather than wasting time trying to finesse them out and grabbed a pack of new ones from AZ. A tennis ball wedged between the fender and the liner made just enough room to reach in and pull the disconnect.

Probably doesn't take much longer to pull the HU, im just always afraid I'm going to accidentally shake some other connection loose in the process and the way my CB is mounted it doesn't make it any easier to pull that last panel off.

Either way works - I guess it just depends if you're in the mood to work inside or outside. Good luck with it.
 
I would remove it from the HU, the problem is that the wood trim that fits over has broken on one of the pins on the trim. I have had to super glue it twice. I don't really want to remove it any more than I need to.

I will probably go up through the wheel well and either unplug or put in a switch.

I bought a replacement mast and it went in and sucked right down like it is supposed to. But when it goes up it starts grinding once again and does not come up just like the old one.
 
traylorr said:
I would remove it from the HU, the problem is that the wood trim that fits over has broken on one of the pins on the trim. I have had to super glue it twice. I don't really want to remove it any more than I need to.

I will probably go up through the wheel well and either unplug or put in a switch.

I bought a replacement mast and it went in and sucked right down like it is supposed to. But when it goes up it starts grinding once again and does not come up just like the old one.
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If you don't want to remove the trim around the head unit, then I agree your best bet is to go through the wheel well. Turn your tires first to give yourself more room (not sure if turning left or right gives the most room). You probably will have to pop off or break a couple of clips to get the liner pulled back enough to stick your arm up in there. I just left the clips broken off. The liner pretty much stays in place even if a couple are missing. And like others said, you can get replacement clips from auto parts store for the liner, I was just too lazy to go do it. After doing some research on here, it seems that these clips from NAPA will fit: NAPA AUTO PARTS

I did this same thing you're talking about. Rigged it so the antenna was in the up position then pulled the plug to the antenna motor. No more grinding sound every time i turned on the head unit. Probably been riding around with it like this on my 97 for like two years. I do plan to get some of those clips at some point.

EDIT: Oh and here's a tip for mast replacement. I recently did the taco whip mod on our 2002. I taped some paracord to the old antenna wire before I pulled it out. That way I had the paracord in there to help me pull the new antenna wire back through the fender. I just used duck tape and taped the paracord end the the male plug end of the new antenna cable before pulling it back through. I can imagine routing that new wire would have been much more difficult otherwise.
 
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I had problems with my antenna so I just ordered a stubby rubber antenna from the internet for $15 bucks and it works fine. Its also flexible enough not to break when off roading.
 
anybody know what the part number is to simply replace the antenna with the original one that come in the car?

I kinda like the motorized one....but still managed to break one.

99 Runner w/silver motorized antenna part #?
 
also perhaps point me in the direction of a thread where this replacement is detailed?

Whats the HU? and yes....I know its a really dumb question
 
sanderson5 said:
anybody know what the part number is to simply replace the antenna with the original one that come in the car?

I kinda like the motorized one....but still managed to break one.

99 Runner w/silver motorized antenna part #?
Click to expand...

Stock power antenna mast:

86337-35111 | Toyota OEM Parts |*MAST for 2002 Toyota 4Runner

I bought this one from Amazon and it was the same part number as above and came in Toyota packaging:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G7SU6M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And a write-up. This is for a second gen 4runner I believe but the process is still the same. Double check which way the teeth should be facing when you insert the new antenna. I believe the teeth face towards the front on a third gen, but it's been a while since I did this. I tried using a cheap ebay antenna before and broke a few, so now I have the Toyota factory part sitting here waiting until i get around to installing it:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/8838-power-antenna-fix-pics.html
 
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TheDurk said:
HU = Head Unit

86300-35111

$146 from Amazon Amazon.com: Genuine Toyota 86300-35111 Antenna Assembly: Automotive

Search 'Tacoma whip mod'. Changing out the motorized unit is almost the same as swapping in a non-motorized.
Click to expand...

Yeah, or you can do what TheDurk suggests and replace the whole motorized unit with a new antenna, but that means you will have to run the new cable through the wheel well to the head unit. I just did the tacoma whip mod on our other 4runner and he's right, it would be the same amount of work to do the whip mod as it is to install a whole new motorized unit. But then you have peace of mind that it won't break again. I wanted to keep one of ours with power antenna though, so that is why I decided to try just replacing the mast on one. In hindsight, I wish I had just got a whip antenna for both, but I already have the part now to fix the power antenna so I am going to try it on the one that it still broken. Good luck.
 
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