99 sr5 highlander
New member
As I'm sure many of you know, a swing out tire carrier is an awesome addition to any truck. They not only allow you to carry a full size spare, but open up options for mounting all sorts of accessories, such as jerry cans, tables, high lifts, traction aids...
Unfortunately, with all this utility come a hefty price. A fully loaded bumper often runs upward of $1600. Being a college student, that is kinda out of the question, so if I wanted one, I had to get creative.
Luckily, I got the opportunity to build my dream bumper during a class over January term.
I had several requirements for my bumper after seeing several in action,
1. It had to be low profile, clean and simple looking.
2. The spare tire had to be as close to the body as possible and high enough not to drag on obstacles.
3. It had to be strong with very little flex, or tire bounce over rough surfaces.
4. And finally it had to have a jerry can mount, fold down table, and make the most out of the compact design.
In addition to their high prices, I couldn't find a tire carrier that I really liked and fit all my requirements.
First I had to come up with a design.
I briefly thought about making a mock-up out of cardboard, but it just wouldn't be rigid enough to create the design i wanted. So, a couple trips to the lumber store were in order.
From taking measurements with the factory bumper and hitch removed I knew that I wanted to use a 3x6" rectangle tube for the main bumper. I ant and bought 2 6 foot 2" x 6" ( actual dimensions are 1.5" x 5.5") to stack.
Here's the main bumper mounted using 1/2" plywood to simulate 3x4 angle iron. Also hung the spare from to roof rack to get a feel for the layout. At this point I chose to mount the spare on the drivers side because I felt it would be least intrusive for visibility, and a drivers swing would be best for curb parking.
Checking departure angle for tire.
Figured out angles and cut.
Making sure tire clears.
Went down and got some 3/16" plate, 1/4" 3x4 angle iron, and way more 3x6 3/16"wall tube than I needed.
Got the sides cut out with a plasma cutter.
Cut out the main tube to match my template, along with the frame plates. I must say, the plasma cutter is the only way to go. ( aside from laser, but that was out of the question.)
I decided to use the 4xinnovations spindle because of the strength of the dual sheer design.
Mounted on the truck.
Everything was tacked together first to make sure it was all square and fit the truck with all the proper clearances, then I flipped it so it would lay flat on the table and tacked the sides to the table, so heat wouldn't cause it to warp.
Got the main bumper fully welded and moved on to the swing arm.
I used 3x2 3/16" wall tubing, which is probably overkill, but I didn't want it to flex.
Made sure everything was level, and tacked on the arm.
Built the upright for the tire. I wanted to keep this close to the body while being strong enough not to bend. I used the same tube as the arm, just turned 90* and notched it to fit the tube. I cut pies out of it to curve around the hatch. It maintains about an inch of clearance to the body, but hugs it pretty well.
Cut a side support to add strength. I know most go with two, but I believe the angles and the 3/16" wall tube should be plenty strong, and it leaves room for the table.
Unfortunately, with all this utility come a hefty price. A fully loaded bumper often runs upward of $1600. Being a college student, that is kinda out of the question, so if I wanted one, I had to get creative.
Luckily, I got the opportunity to build my dream bumper during a class over January term.
I had several requirements for my bumper after seeing several in action,
1. It had to be low profile, clean and simple looking.
2. The spare tire had to be as close to the body as possible and high enough not to drag on obstacles.
3. It had to be strong with very little flex, or tire bounce over rough surfaces.
4. And finally it had to have a jerry can mount, fold down table, and make the most out of the compact design.
In addition to their high prices, I couldn't find a tire carrier that I really liked and fit all my requirements.
First I had to come up with a design.
I briefly thought about making a mock-up out of cardboard, but it just wouldn't be rigid enough to create the design i wanted. So, a couple trips to the lumber store were in order.
From taking measurements with the factory bumper and hitch removed I knew that I wanted to use a 3x6" rectangle tube for the main bumper. I ant and bought 2 6 foot 2" x 6" ( actual dimensions are 1.5" x 5.5") to stack.
Here's the main bumper mounted using 1/2" plywood to simulate 3x4 angle iron. Also hung the spare from to roof rack to get a feel for the layout. At this point I chose to mount the spare on the drivers side because I felt it would be least intrusive for visibility, and a drivers swing would be best for curb parking.
Checking departure angle for tire.
Figured out angles and cut.
Making sure tire clears.
Went down and got some 3/16" plate, 1/4" 3x4 angle iron, and way more 3x6 3/16"wall tube than I needed.
Got the sides cut out with a plasma cutter.
Cut out the main tube to match my template, along with the frame plates. I must say, the plasma cutter is the only way to go. ( aside from laser, but that was out of the question.)
I decided to use the 4xinnovations spindle because of the strength of the dual sheer design.
Mounted on the truck.
Everything was tacked together first to make sure it was all square and fit the truck with all the proper clearances, then I flipped it so it would lay flat on the table and tacked the sides to the table, so heat wouldn't cause it to warp.
Got the main bumper fully welded and moved on to the swing arm.
I used 3x2 3/16" wall tubing, which is probably overkill, but I didn't want it to flex.
Made sure everything was level, and tacked on the arm.
Built the upright for the tire. I wanted to keep this close to the body while being strong enough not to bend. I used the same tube as the arm, just turned 90* and notched it to fit the tube. I cut pies out of it to curve around the hatch. It maintains about an inch of clearance to the body, but hugs it pretty well.
Cut a side support to add strength. I know most go with two, but I believe the angles and the 3/16" wall tube should be plenty strong, and it leaves room for the table.
