A/C Problem
- Thread starter sigepbiker
- Start date
From my experience its usually caused by corrosion on the evaporator core which is a aluminium. Water,debris that touch it or whatever it is. I'd say try to keep your a/c filters changed to prevent crap to enter and or set on outside air to dry out the fins before turning the car off
Johns06yota
Member
My 2006 was having this issue just not as severe but it was a little low on freon. Just adding some freon from the autoparts store should help if it shows low. Word of advice though the can that I bought had a gauge that gave the proper pressure at first but didn't change when freon was added. Needless to say when my ac began to blow warm when tested I got a 20 dollar gauge and it read 85 psi (I drained it back down to 45) so just be careful if you add any. Now both sides of my ac are ice cold
this thread provided an interesting hint in that the driver side vents gets warm/cool vs the pass side stays cool. I did add some freon last year but that didn't seem to help with this issue.
So, it turns out that the a/c comp does in fact kick in/out, thereby causing the vent temp (driver side) to go warm/cold/warm/cold. So, this is making me think that possibly the comp is shutting down until the pressures come down, then restarts back up again. This is just a theory but please let me know otherwise.
I'll connect the manifold gauge this week and see what's up. I'll see what the FSM states the high pressure should be just to make sure.
Thanks.
Drummer1
New member
I've had this problem with mine for a while now. Almost every year at the start of summer I have to add refrigerant because my driver side air vents are blowing luke warm and the rest are cold. I took it to my trusted mechanic who did an a/c test and found no leaks. This last time before I charged it the mechanic pointed out that the a/c line should be really cold and it wasn't until after I charged it.
This is good info, I'll check for it. Thanks.
SoSoRunner
New member
A/C filters...where are those located, do you mean the cabin filter behind the glove box? Hmmm makes sense probably doesn't affect 4r's in the hotter climates huh, since everything dries up faster?!?!
I'm in socal where it's always warm/ hot so I'm always using my a/c. But I do make it a point like 3-5min before I get to my destination to turn ac off and to vent in outside air so that I don't get that mildew smell. Maybe that has extended my evap's life a lil more haha.
For what it's worth, I had the dealership perform an oil change and looped in an A/C check to get a second opinion. It turns out that my system was at .19lbs of freon and needed to be at 1.35lbs. This was performed and tested to spec. The services cost just under $150 altogether.
I spent $75 at the beginning of the week on a bullshit diagnosis from an independent mechanic who stated the freon level and pressure were good. Further, he wanted to tear down the dash to get to the "HVAC box" to find the problem. Just the dash removal was going to start at $1000.
I suppose this is a long winded way of saying that my specific problem, thankfully, was due to low freon. I share all these details in case someone else's situation is like mine as there are many in this thread who appear to have.
We are blessed.....
....in that our T4R's still use a "sight-glass" in the A/C systems. It makes for a very easy preliminary system check. Even my old '68 GTO had one. These days many manufacturers have eliminated them.
FWIW......the "left side warm, right side cool" problem is a long known indicator of a low freon situation, in the T4R. What's happening is that the freon is NOT expanding uniformly across the full width of the evaporator......and the split ductwork sends warm air left, and cool air right.
BTW......another system check is that the inlet and outlet evaporator pipes(at the firewall) should be equally cool to-the-touch, in a properly charged and running A/C system.
Hope this helps.
Kevin
....in that our T4R's still use a "sight-glass" in the A/C systems. It makes for a very easy preliminary system check. Even my old '68 GTO had one. These days many manufacturers have eliminated them.
FWIW......the "left side warm, right side cool" problem is a long known indicator of a low freon situation, in the T4R. What's happening is that the freon is NOT expanding uniformly across the full width of the evaporator......and the split ductwork sends warm air left, and cool air right.
BTW......another system check is that the inlet and outlet evaporator pipes(at the firewall) should be equally cool to-the-touch, in a properly charged and running A/C system.
Hope this helps.
Kevin
zonianbrat
New member
I have a weird issue with my AC too! My compressor kicks off about once a minute for like 10 seconds. You can feel a change in the temp of the air and you can smell this weird kind of wet smell for those 10 seconds. I've changed the relay thinking that was it but I never had the blinking AC light nor did this solve the issue. Any ideas?
If your mechanic had a boroscope and a way to Inject dye into the a/c he should be able to inspect the evaporator core and see if it has oil and or dye from it without removing the dash. But end the result he already pulled the dash and checked the evap core it shouldn't cost that much more to replace the evap core.
Somedevillover
New member
I know this was a bit ago, but did you ever figure out the issue ? Having same problem!!
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Hey, I'm not the OP form this thread but I can tell you what the likely cause is for the symptom you have. The thermistor in the evaporator box is a known defective part. It's job is to turn the compressor off when the evaporator temperature reaches a predetermined spec. What happens is they get out of whack somehow and "think" it's colder than it really is. There are several threads on here about this including some helpful tips on changing it. Just do a search for a/c thermistor.
