A few 5 speed swap questions (and build thread)

[RandyBobandy]

Yes I kept the J shift transfer case that was attached to my auto, I’ve considered attempting a multi mode swap after I get this all finished up

 

[Team_Jake]

Yes I kept the J shift transfer case that was attached to my auto, I’ve considered attempting a multi mode swap after I get this all finished up

My problem was that there were no driveshafts that were the correct length since I have multi-mode. I guess since yours is a j-shift, then you already have the manual driveshafts that are the correct length so swapping those will be easy.

 

[RandyBobandy]

Is that multi mode tcase and wiring a self contained unit that would swap into a non multi mode vehicle, or does it interact with the ecu or wheel speed sensors in some way?

 

[Team_Jake]

Is that multi mode tcase and wiring a self contained unit that would swap into a non multi mode vehicle, or does it interact with the ecu or wheel speed sensors in some way?

The multi-mode transfer case has a stand-alone ECU in the driver side footwell area + there are a couple extra connectors on the transfer case itself. It interacts with the main ECU no differently than any other transfer case. The ECUs are actually exactly the same between a multi-mode 4Runner and a non-multi-mode 4Runner.

Since mine was a limited it already had the multi-mode so I don’t know every detail that would be involved. If you can read an electrical wiring diagram easily and are comfortable with wiring than I don’t see why you couldn’t swap one in.

 

[RandyBobandy]

I can't do either of those things, but that doesn't mean I won't try it eventually lol

anyone have any tips for driving a manual with a lunchbox locker, I used to love that locker when I had the auto but now I'm not so sure about it, I chirp the tires a lot

 

[VernySanders]

What is the power / acceleration difference like switching from auto to manual? Im pickup up my manual trans this upcoming weekend, got an entire donor swap from a 2000 and I also have a 2000. Complete with trim pieces. However, i plan to disassemble my manual and inspect all the components before running it in my truck. At the bare minimum im replacing all bearings and seals with oem parts.

 

[RandyBobandy]

I haven’t put a ton of miles on it yet since I was having a brake issue that I just got fixed and the interior is mostly taken apart waiting for wiring harnesses, however the annoying gear hunting up long hills is a thing of the past, power and acceleration seem better but that might just be my butt dyno. I used to have trouble maintaining speed up steep hills without locking the auto into 2, with the manual hills are no problem

I have 33s though so that definitely contributed to the sluggishness up hills

 

[RandyBobandy]

a little update here, and a big thanks to [MENTION=120611]geezerr54[/MENTION] for bailing me out of my wiring harness/ecu problem with parts from his junk rig, he did me a huge favor swapping harnesses with me and I very much appreciate it.

I got the engine wiring harness and ecu and will probably start putting them in later tonight or tomorrow. I did not take the dash harness because it was just too much work to remove it and then having to tear apart my dash to install the new harness, but I did get the pigtail connectors for the clutch switches, and the clutch start cancel assembly

so I have a question for any of you who have done this on a similar year, how should I go about wiring these switches into my dash harness? I am not super familiar with wiring so any help is greatly appreciated

 

[St Runner]

There are 2 switches on there clutch pedal, the bottom one engages when you push the clutch pedal to the floor. Thats the starting circuit switch, it should have three wires. The other switch is at the top of the pedal and that is the cruise control switch. I never hooked that one up when I did my swap as I can't use it on the island I live on so you are on your own with that one. The clutch cancel switch goes into one of the blanks to the left of the steering wheel. Go to kolelt build thread on page three and he did a whole writeup on installing the clutch switch and the clutch cancel switch for a 97

 

[RandyBobandy]

awesome that writeup will help a lot, I don't plan to hook up the cruise control either, since I've never used it and don't really plan to.

one last question, about the plug that goes to the ecu from the body harness, do the wire colors on the auto body harness match up with the ones that would be attached to the manual body-ecu plug. can I just splice those together going by color? both my vehicle and the donor are 97s

 

[St Runner]

If I remember correctly the colors do not match. The position of the wires on the plug for their function is pretty much the same, but you will need a wiring diagram for both the auto and manual to get it correct. Using the manual engine harness and ecu is defiantly worth it in my opinion as it does 3/4 of your wiring for you and you only need to deal with the last plug that comes from the dash wiring to the ecu

 

[RandyBobandy]

Thankfully I do have the manual engine harness and ecu, I tried to pull the dash harness as well but it was just too much to remove and I figured it was easier to wire in those switches and repin that one plug

 

[RandyBobandy]

so I got the manual engine harness and ecu installed, and I'm trying to figure out this dash harness plug so I have a few questions

according to the repin chart on koltlts build thread, there are two wires originally coming from auto harness plugs e9 and e11 that go into the manual dash harness plug, I don't have the auto engine harness so I'm not sure where these two wires would come from, the diagram for the manual plug shows wires in those positions (11 and 4 on m/t plug e8)

I started the vehicle and put it in reverse to test the reverse lights, and the dash lights stopped working as well as the tachometer, if i turn the key to on but don't start it I can hear a clicking sound kind of like a relay, and no dash lights illuminate like they normally would

edit: the two wires I'm referring to are the "STA" wire and the malfunction indicator wire

edit 2: so putting it in reverse blew the 10a fuse for the gauge cluster, not sure why that happened

 

[RandyBobandy]

ok so I fixed the reverse light issue, in my haste to try starting the vehicle I forgot to tape off my unused wires and shorted something causing the fuse to blow, have I mentioned I'm not qualified to do any of this?

so right now the last things I am looking for are where to pull the STA and malfunction indicator wires from, as well as my 4wd indicator does not appear on the dash, there is an unused plug on the tcase with no associated plug on the manual engine harness that might have something to do with it

 

[St Runner]

It took me a long time to figure out where those wires were. Basically you need to find those wires on the e9 and e11 plugs and run them back over to the ecu engine harness plug. I just spliced and soldered the connection. I am too tired to wrap my he'd around exactly why they are run differently but if you unwrap the tape on the auto engine wiring harness those 2 wires run about a foot and then bend back to the e9 e11 plugs and don't run back down to the engine. Anyway they are in a different plug so you just have to manually move them over. The 97 was very different from the auto to manual in the wiring

 

[RandyBobandy]

It took me a long time to figure out where those wires were. Basically you need to find those wires on the e9 and e11 plugs and run them back over to the ecu engine harness plug. I just spliced and soldered the connection. I am too tired to wrap my he'd around exactly why they are run differently but if you unwrap the tape on the auto engine wiring harness those 2 wires run about a foot and then bend back to the e9 e11 plugs and don't run back down to the engine. Anyway they are in a different plug so you just have to manually move them over. The 97 was very different from the auto to manual in the wiring

I swapped the manual engine harness onto mine which is why I am confused as to where I would find those wires, do I need to take them out of the auto engine harness and move them over to the manual harness?

 

[St Runner]

No They are on the dash side of the e9 or e 11 plug (the bigger one if I remember) Just add an extension and run them into the proper spot on the ecu

 

[RandyBobandy]

No They are on the dash side of the e9 or e 11 plug (the bigger one if I remember) Just add an extension and run them into the proper spot on the ecu

That’s what I don’t understand, maybe this is going over my head and I’ll feel like an idiot when I realize where my mistake is, but the e9 and e11 plugs are part of the auto engine harness and aren’t connected to the dash, so I don’t have those plugs anymore

 

[brillo_76]

He is saying the plugs should be there. So you can tag them from those plugs and pin them to the proper spots on the ECU connector.

Worth a look since you left the auto body harness in and changed the engine harness.

If not, you can get the CEL of the dash connector pin 4. The stater relay of the relay itself worst case.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[St Runner]

Thats a better way to say it The wires you need for the ecu are on the dash harness side of the e11/e9 plugs . In the auto engine harness those wires would go up a foot and bend back into the ecu. The manual engine harness does not have those wires so you have to bring them over yourself. I spent a whole afternoon when I did mine looking at wiring diagrams with those two wires and going wtf?