A little "schooling" on sway bar links please..

Staceman

New member
My 2007 SE 4Runner has 2 1/2" lift springs in the rear. The stock sway bar links are at quite an angle, but the ride is great. I bought 2" longer links, simple install, everything is tight, but I have a lot of body roll. I wasn't expecting this. Tires even screech around corners where the short links would just hug those corners.
What am I losing if I just keep the short links in? Do I loose rear axle articulation at all?
It "seems" as if the short links are kind of pre-loading pressure on that bar.

I'm not too worried about the articulation since I have installed a rear electric locker.
 
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I'm running the same ones. I just used a big C clamp and a small flat piece of wood on each side, then a rubber mallet for the final push. Maybe not the correct way, but it seemed to work.

Just my bench vice, with a socket on the one side....

Maybe they wouldn't go in because I forgot to grease them. :der:

I tried a C-clamp and using a jack against the frame. Bushing was folding over the top of the link and not pressing in.


My 2007 SE 4Runner has 2 1/2" lift springs in the rear. The stock sway bar links are at quite an angle, but the ride is great. I bought 2" longer links, simple install, everything is tight, but I have a lot of body roll. I wasn't expecting this. Tires even screech around corners where the short links would just hug those corners.
What am I losing if I just keep the short links in? Do I loose rear axle articulation at all?
It "seems" as if the short links are kind of pre-loading pressure on that bar.

I'm not too worried about the articulation since I have installed a rear electric locker.
You have a front sway bar on? I upgraded the front and rear frame bushings to poly and that tightened things up for me. [No front swaybar relocate] Still have stock links in the back with 1.5" lift.

I'm running the same ones. I just used a big C clamp and a small flat piece of wood on each side, then a rubber mallet for the final push. Maybe not the correct way, but it seemed to work.
DisguisedRope, you have the same issue as OP with your links?
 
I just unbolted my rear sway bar and tossed it in the trash. Truck works wonderfully and I don't even notice that its gone.
 
Well, I replaced my extended rear sway-bar links with my short stock ones. Got my firm high speed cornering stable feel back. Wheeled last week-end with the short links. Found a spot that articulated my rear axle, and here's the result...

20151127_125522_zpslmmlmrvn.jpg~original



I am happy with this, ESPECIALLY since I modified my rear diff to an E-Locker. I have extended rear sway bar links for cheap, if anyone wants them. I used the upper poly bushings on my stock links though. I'll include the worn out rubber ones. Replacement poly's are cheap on Amazon.....

I'm still not sure why longer links would allow such body roll feel. I assumed the "feel" would be the same, and just allow better droop of an articulated axle..
 
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My 2007 SE 4Runner has 2 1/2" lift springs in the rear. The stock sway bar links are at quite an angle, but the ride is great. I bought 2" longer links, simple install, everything is tight, but I have a lot of body roll. I wasn't expecting this. Tires even screech around corners where the short links would just hug those corners.
What am I losing if I just keep the short links in? Do I loose rear axle articulation at all?
It "seems" as if the short links are kind of pre-loading pressure on that bar.

I'm not too worried about the articulation since I have installed a rear electric locker.

It sounds like your extended links were too long for your lift height. For most 2" rear lifts I've seen people either buying or creating 1" longer rear links. Me personally, I bought 2nd Gen 4Runner rear end links by Moog. This effectively lowered my sway bar angle to near stock levels prior to my lift. I have a 2" rear lift on Icon coils.

Stock vs Moog K80380, 1" longer
http://imgur.com/x6AhlCp

Stock 4th Gen 4Runner Rear
http://imgur.com/a9Ya8gh

Moog 2nd Gen 4Runner Rear
http://imgur.com/WwRlHFU
http://imgur.com/WON73xr
 
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I have about the same lift and I'm running these Customish Extended Rear Sway Bar Links without the bushings between the sway bar and eyebolt and instead an extended spacer.

I know some are wary of using the eyebolt but it's very strong and if it does break which is highly unlikely then all that happens is you go buy a new one. It won't damage your truck seeing as people disconnect their links all the time. They're working great for me. I can now take turns at like 15 with almost no body roll.
 
I may be on to something. Just for fun I clamped and tightened down the nut and bolt through the poly bushing on my extended link, and noticed alot of wobble "play" through the bushing. I'll try to post up a small vid of what i'm talking about this weekend. This "could" explain why it feels like I have excess sway in my rig with these installed, and why the eyebolt method may seem to be a better one, however, I like the 2nd Gen link idea better personally.
 
I have been wrestling with this same thing for two weeks now. Just finished my icon stage 2 lift and 285 ties. Got a lecture from the mechanic yesterday about not having sway bars on.... blah, blah, blah. Then later that day almost lost control of the car on the interstate. (could not get the back on the road quickly, but managed to get it under control)

Spent 2 hours last night trying to come up with a solution for the sway bars and the links. I can tell you removing the sway bars is not smart for driving on the interstate.

SO... i ordered the WabFab front and rear links. i know the guy has a bad rap, but he is right down the street from me. I modified the links, shortened the front link and went as long as i could on the rear and even added the rubber bushings to it. So far it works, but i am still in test mode. The factory links were too short (3 Inch rear springs) in the rear and too long in the front.

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What did you use for the E-Locker?

I used the rear diff from a junkyard. Already geared 3.73, so I had my friend ZUK go through it and freshen up all bearings and use a solid collar instead of a crush sleeve. 12voltguy elocker harness and switch. Hardest part was removing the rear axle housing, to cut it up for the elocker, drilling and tapping for more studs. Glad I did it though!

Here's ZUKs site, he's done quite a bit of work for me over the years.

Toyota Gear Installs



.
 
HiVel-JR,
those rear links appear to be a little stouter than the ones I was using.

But those MOOGs for a 2nd. gen, only $13.51 each on rockauto.... that's what I'm doing next...
 
Went with the MOOG 2nd gen 4Runner sway bar links for the rear.
$13 each from RockAuto.

eXstasy - You the man!
Exactly what I was needing and looking for!
 
I opnly have fj springs in the rear, so about 1 inch lift plus bigger tires. If I go bigger I know what to do, but should I just stay with stock size considering this current setup? Mine are worn and need replacement but My 4runner drives great. don't want to mess that up.
 

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