A possible solution to leaking axle seals

[MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION]

Thoughts of using the Oem inboard retainer, like designed (bevel inboard), but set at 3mm outward from the polished edge ? I'm working with my machine shop to see if he can make a 2mm spacer to seat it all in.

It will rub the housing. But I think you missed the gist of this thread. The bevel is placed where the seal is positioned. Why fight the design flaw and then spend time and money to makeshift something you dont need? Its simple, flip it and run it. No more leaks.
 
So as I understand it, the problems arose after the seal was redesigned?

Is it possible to install old style seals without moving/replacing the inner retaining ring?
 
Alternatively, if I want to put in new OEM seals with the updated design, I'm wondering if the inner retainer ring can be heated, removed, flipped over so the bevel points out, heated again, and replaced on the shaft.

This would allow much more simple DIY without a press and using the updated seal design, assuming the bearing doesn't need to be replaced.
 
Heat may cause the retainer to expand. Then it will be loose. Like throwing a hot dog down a hallway, or a jv cheerleader.


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My understanding is the retainer is pretty tight on the axle shaft. I'm not sure a bunch of heat would be enough for it to come off easily.
 
This could explain why even new seals are failing simply because they aren't seating on the retainer's shoulder. The TSB link is below the picture.
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When it cools, won't it return to size?
No, you cannot put the toothpaste back in the tube. you might think it's the same size but it's not.
The machine shop that butchered my rear axle seal repair job head heated up one of the retainer rings and it would spin freely on the polished shaft

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So it sounds like the easiest path is going to be cut off the old retainer, tap on a new one, bevel out, with a properly sized pipe, and reinstall with a new OEM seal.
 
If you get a hold of the tool thats either made for this or take it to toyota they may be able to use a bearing puller the slide behind the abs ring and pull off the retainer and abs ring together. You might even be able to do that with a slide hammer, and bearing puller tool. You may know what i am driving at here if you have read the threads by dr coffee or bigfishallday

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Actually, its 2mm. Per the FSM.

Interesting thread.

FWIW: I replaced my bearings and seals on 06-24-08 at 154,500. I took it apart today to investigate for a bent axle shaft (and it is!), but thankfully still no leaks. Current mileage is 234,028... so 79,528 leak free miles.

Factory measurement still works --> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2152324-post29.html
Curious how did you suspect a bent shaft? Incident, noise, etc? And how did you verify it was indeed bent?

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Confused in the Bronx..

So here I am, in the Bronx and any work I do on Fizzy would need to be done on the street.
Had him jacked up and on stands and pulled all hardware off to pull axles because of diff fluid leaking.
It seems pass side seal was replaced with some all black oil seal and it failed.. not sure if it's all rubber or part rubber and plastic but it just popped/slid out it claw on back of hammer. Put new seal with new design in.. didn't mess with retainers or bearings.. didn't notice any play on it really but seal on bearing looked like it was bubbling in a couple spots. Will replace soon.
Driver side.. whole new story! The backing plate rocks on the bearing and pushes in and out on it too. Is this a bearing issue or is the backing plate that holds the bearing shot somehow?
https://youtu.be/ocdqQzQ7rIE
https://youtu.be/6z4AeRSQC3U
 
Should I get a new hub to press the bearing into also? Or you think it's just the bearings have worn and sorta shrunk?
 
Is the axle wobbling in the bearing or is the bearing outer race wobbling ing the bearing case? I cant answer that from where I am. Take the axles to a shop that will press in the new bearing and ask them if you need a new bearing case.
 
Is the axle wobbling in the bearing or is the bearing outer race wobbling ing the bearing case? I cant answer that from where I am. Take the axles to a shop that will press in the new bearing and ask them if you need a new bearing case.

I was surprised....the "bearing case" is only like $55 from Toyota Parts Online.....at least for the non-ABS models.
 
From the way I saw it's movement; it looked like the outer race of bearing had enough play between it and the bearing housing to wobble and shimmy in and out.
Think I'll try finding the part number for the bearing housing just in case.

Think I found it.. is this universal.. fits right or left?
42421-35030 - Toyota Parts Deal
 
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From the way I saw it's movement; it looked like the outer race of bearing had enough play between it and the bearing housing to wobble and shimmy in and out.
Think I'll try finding the part number for the bearing housing just in case.

Think I found it.. is this universal.. fits right or left?
42421-35030 - Toyota Parts Deal
But it wont be able to shimmy or wobble once bolted back up. You can bang the whole setup on a piece of wood and nearly remove the bearing from the housing. Just something i noticed when doing mine. I figure its like the front abs rings, they spin once removed but lock down the axle nut to 174 and the ring wont slip independant of the axle.
 

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