A question for all of you that actually lifted your 4Runner yourself

This was my first time installing a suspension in a 4unner.

1. When installing new UCA, do I need load the arm before torquing ?

2. When installing pan bar, do I need to load it before torquing ?
 
Not sure what brand shock your using, but most have flat sides on the top stud that you can hold with a small wrench. Barring that, jack up the axle to compress the shocks, may help. From the one pic, looks like a missing washer on the lower bushing.
 
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Not sure what brand shock your using, but most have flat sides on the top stud that you can hold with a small wrench. Barring that, jack up the axle to compress the shocks, may help. From the one pic, looks like a missing washer on the lower bushing.



Its OME Nirto shocks nike in the video below I am just missing something to tighten the nut down.
 
Imgur: The magic of the Internet

some reason pictures aren't showing up.


In the area circled. Is there a flat spot there to put an open end wench ? If no, the you’ll have to hold the body down as you tighten top nut.

281cedba38080c6b48e603c4273c3b01.jpg
 
You don’t need a ball joint separator. A dead blow hammer will separate the ball joint from the spindle.

Wrenches and sockets up to 21 or 22 mm. A spring compressor, rented mine for free from Autozone. Jackstands. Breaker bars and torque wrenches.

Only specialty tool I recall was the spring compressor, and a ball joint separator.

I spent all day but I work slowly, as I enjoy it.
 
.make sure to disconnect the ABS wire when you get to the fronts. No point risking damaging the wire when its easy to remove.
 
The fronts will be today, I am just looking for videos on how to do it a little easier than last night.

Just take your time. One side at a time. The bolt for the UCA will be frustrating, extra hands may help, but it is doable solo.
 
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I have all day today and all day tomorrow so we will see how it goes. Working 1 armed sucks but it needs to get done. Discount Tire said they wont put the tires on and let me leave if it rubs really bad so I am trying to get this done so I can get the tires
 
So I just watched this video and they put a washer under the top bushing in the rear and in the video I watched last night they used the bushing for the bottom of the shock? So which is it? Do I need to take the rear apart again and try to get the shock off for that washer and put it on the top bushing.

5th Gen 4Runner Old Man Emu lift install guide - YouTube

How to Install OME Rear Springs and Shocks on 2003-2016 4Runner - YouTube

I have not watched the vids yet. ( keep in mind many on tubeyou are hacks, just trying to make some money) Did the kit come with any kind of schematics? The idea of the of the washers or bushing retaining caps or what ever they are being called, is to compress the bushing under "load ". So from the bottom... Shock, washer, lower bushing, frame, upper bushing, washer, nut. Raising the axle will crush the lower bushing, giving you more thread at the top. Tightening the nut will crush both upper and lower brushing until properly torqued.
 
I have not watched the vids yet. ( keep in mind many on tubeyou are hacks, just trying to make some money) Did the kit come with any kind of schematics? The idea of the of the washers or bushing retaining caps or what ever they are being called, is to compress the bushing under "load ". So from the bottom... Shock, washer, lower bushing, frame, upper bushing, washer, nut. Raising the axle will crush the lower bushing, giving you more thread at the top. Tightening the nut will crush both upper and lower brushing until properly torqued.



None so I put the washer on the bottom shock bolt between the LCA and the shock on the shave like the video that does it.
 
So, the front is a world easier than the back, everything came off with ease and I am waiting for the wife to come home with Loctite red, I didn't need the ball joint separator, just a few whacks and it came off. I should have it done tomorrow unless something happens that I am not expecting. Yes this is taking me forever but I tore the labium in my shoulder so I can't really lift anything with my right arm. The waiting sucks
 
So, the front is a world easier than the back, everything came off with ease and I am waiting for the wife to come home with Loctite red, I didn't need the ball joint separator, just a few whacks and it came off. I should have it done tomorrow unless something happens that I am not expecting. Yes this is taking me forever but I tore the labium in my shoulder so I can't really lift anything with my right arm. The waiting sucks

Not sure what happened in your case, but the rear is normally a very quick job.

Various shocks will need various tricks:

Higher-end shocks may have a separate piece that goes into the small hole next to where the stem goes and that prevents rotation.

The Icon 2.0 can be held in place with pliers like this:
Stanley 84-522 $10.91 Tongue and Groove Pliers, 8 In. | Zoro.com

The Eibach is a bit more annoying but not hard with two 19 mm wrenches, one to hold underneath the bottom bushing and the other, ratcheting one, to tighten.

The ratcheting wrench is the key to making this a quick process. Otherwise, it is lots of turns!
 

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