About to do Tundra brake upgarde, have couple of questions

mastee

New member
Ok, so I have everything for a Tundra upgrade, 19mm Calipers (minus a pin:(, OEM rotors n pads, I also want to do a full system flush with the motive power bleeder (that is the recommended bleeder, right?)

A few quick questions

1. What is the little red cap for on the side of the caliper? (I searched)

2. Can I use the CRC stop squeal paste (pictured) on the back side of the pads, I had good results on my g35?

3. As you can see there is writing on the calipers, can I mask inside of the calipers, bleeder valve, n red cap with painters tape, then clean the caliper with Simple Green/toothbrush, primer coat, then paint....would that be ok?

4. Finally where to get the missing clip/pin, and is it called a retainer pin (visible in the 2nd picture, in the caliper on top of pads )?, dealership, advance auto?

Many thanks
 

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Check out a disc brake hardware kit, 'bout any hardware store can pick one up for you and some may have it in stock. It'd be for both sides. You could also try a dealership of course. Check to make sure the kit you pick up has all the pieces you want in it. Just make sure you get it for the correct caliper.

Usually something with a plastic cap like that would where your hydraulic line goes.

Brake pads usually come with shims to replace the old school goop we used to use on the backs of pads. You'll prolly get a lot of answers on that one.

I've seen a few threads where people have painted their calipers.
 
The little red cap (plastic I take it) just covers the brake line hole. Remove it before attaching the brake line.

NAPA or other auto stores should have a brake hardware kit. If you just want a pin, go see the dealer.

Sil glyde for the pins (a tiny amount) and if the pads are new, they come with some brake grease. If none, the red Permatex bottle of silicone brake lube works well.

In using the Motive, follow their instructions. A couple of pointers is to tighten the lines of the bleeder tubes tight with clamps or zip ties. Suck out some fluid out of the MC. Replace with new. Put in new fluid, tighten cap on MC, pump up pressure to 12~15psi, check for leaks. If pressure is constant, then crack the bleeders starting from the RR and working up to LF until the fluid is clear with no bubbles.
 
You don't need the pins. You can reuse the clips from your existing factory setup. It's a better design anyway.
 
thx guys for the tips:), I will see if I can just pickup the clips from the dealer, I see no reason for any of it going bad.
 

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