ABS system malfunction (not WSS wire)

SalsaRed

New member
Hi guys, I'm hoping someone can help me narrow down the root of the issues I am experiencing. I currently have the ABS, vehicle slip, Flashing 4x4, and red brake light all lit at all times. My power steering light comes on as soon as I start the car, but shuts off once I switch out of park and doesn't come back on until I am in park. Steering feels normal.

A little background on how things progressed. For the past year or so I would feel my abs kick on if I hit a pothole. I could also feel something similar to one ABS pulsation in the pedal when I turn the steering wheel. Those weren't a big deal so I ignored it for a while.

About a month ago my ABS started kicking in heavily when I was slowing to a stop, only if I was below about 20 mph. It felt like it was only engaging on the drivers side, causing the whole vehicle to pull heavily to the left. The lights were not on at this point. A few minutes after that would happen the abs, traction, and 4x4 lights would turn on and I wouldn't have to worry about braking and getting pulled into oncoming traffic by the abs. This would happen a few times during my 30 minute drive to/from work, with the lights coming on and then shutting back off.

About a week after this started, the lights stayed on all of the time. The red brake light came on as well. A few days later the power steering light showed up in park.

I had a buddy with a snap on scan tool plug in and graph the readings while I was driving. The front passenger reading was way different than the rest, the line would climb sharply and then drop to zero. It would repeat this constantly.

Thinking it was a broken wire that was intermittently making contact, I replaced the wheel speed sensor wire on that side and disconnected the battery to attempt to reset things. No luck.

I put a multimeter on both front wheel speed sensors and got the exact same impedance.

Power steering fluid level is on the edge of being low and brake fluid is fine.

Can anyone offer any advice to help me avoid taking this to the dealership?
 
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You need to read the codes with TIS and see what it says. Std OBD reader won't cut it for ABS....

Some things to consider.

- Zero point calibration... sounds like yaw sensor is off
- Wheel speed sensor itself may need replacing. It should pulse consistently on both wheels.

The lights themselves don't mean much on a Toyota.. They sort of just light them all up on a CEL.... not very useful at all besides letting you know something is wrong. It really gives no indication of where the actual problem is.
 
Last edited:
Thanks wfo9! I made an appointment at the local dealer this Thursday. Hopefully they can at least tell me whether it's the abs module or just a speed sensor or wheel bearing.

I'll probably try to do a zero point calibration myself tonight to see if that changes anything before taking it in.
 
You might want to check out the wheel hub bearing. My girl's Tacoma was doing something similar after I replaced a broken wheel sensor.
Couldn't figure out why the ABS was not working correctly. When the wheel hub was removed there was a lot of grease and broken down bearing dust covering the sensor.
After replacing the bearing now the brakes are working properly. You can test for a bad wheel hub bearing by jacking up the front end so that tires are off the ground and grab the wheel at the top and bottom to check for movement in the bearing.
 
Just got a call from the dealership. They said it took them a while to figure it out, but are claiming that my tone ring is super corroded. They want to replace the wheel bearing, sensor, and abs wire (I won't let them do that, I just replaced it). And they want $1300 to do it all.

So I'm thinking I should tell them no and have the hub/bearing assembly replaced by my independent shop friend and do the sensor myself. Any reason not to go that route?
 
Just got a call from the dealership. They said it took them a while to figure it out, but are claiming that my tone ring is super corroded. They want to replace the wheel bearing, sensor, and abs wire (I won't let them do that, I just replaced it). And they want $1300 to do it all.

So I'm thinking I should tell them no and have the hub/bearing assembly replaced by my independent shop friend and do the sensor myself. Any reason not to go that route?

No reason at all. That's a lot to pull apart a hub and change $150 worth of parts. Have your mechanic do the tone ring since he will already have the axle pulled. It will probably be parts plus 15 minutes.
 

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