ABS/VSC light after spacer- ABS wire

Cracka

New member
I installed a spacer lift and knowingly stretched the driver's side ABS wire from the fender well to the wheel.

After putting everything back together I noticed the ABS/VSC lights. Knowing that I stretched the ABS wire I'm guessing this is what caused the code. I've tried disconnecting the battery and touching the cables together to ground the system. This didn't solve anything.

My questions are:

1) Will an Autozone scan detect the problem? And isolate it to the wire? This second question seems too specific for a reader.

2) If I replace the wire ($57 from the dealer) will it require a dealer specific scan to reset the computer? Or will the battery disconnect suffice?

I have a warranty with a $50 deductible. But with the spacer I'm sure they'll put two and two together. If replacing the wire will solve the problem I'll go that route and save a trip to the dealership.


Thanks a million.
 
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After replacing the wire you will probably need to do a zero point calibration. Search it or read this thread, it has links and it's basically your story. the lift and tires will be on this weekend! - Toyota - 4Runner . org Forum



It's a DIY thing, no worries.

:cheers:

Thanks. I ordered the wire.

I had read the post in the link but wasn't sure if it applied to years other than '03-04. Seems simple enough. Run a jumper between two ports on the OBD connector and follow the sequence listed in the PDF.


I ordered the wire.

Edit:

I just noticed you're from Cape Coral, FL. Up until a few months ago I had lived in two cities: Las Vegas, NV and Merced, CA. In the first half of 2009 Las Vegas was the nation's highest in foreclosures, followed by Cape Coral and Merced came 3rd.
 
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I just noticed you're from Cape Coral, FL. Up until a few months ago I had lived in two cities: Las Vegas, NV and Merced, CA. In the first half of 2009 Las Vegas was the nation's highest in foreclosures, followed by Cape Coral and Merced came 3rd.

Yep, I still have my house there. Parts of the SW Cape are rounding the corner. I should be able to dump my house soon, I got in cheap enough. It's a beautiful place if Golf and Gulf fishing are your thing.
 
I think I may have this problem...is it dangerous to drive with the ABS light on? How much would it cost to fix this if I took it into the dealer? or other shop?
 
If the ABS light is on, it's not working properly. The brakes should still work, but most likely without the ABS and VSC computer-controlled features.
 
Had I read this before I installed the Daystar lift on my 4Runner, I would have disconnected the ABS wire. As careful as I was, I still managed to break a wire. At least I only broke it on one side. I took it off and found the break and repaired it with some solder and shrink wrap.
After I repaired and installed the repaired wire, I reconnected the battery and turned on the ignition. The system went through it's normal test and the ABS and VSC lights cleared.
 
I've got the same situation after having a local shop install the spacers. VSC, TRAC and ABS lights all on. Did a zero calibration set last night, checked the ABS wires, and can't find a break. Just going to order the replacement wires from the dealer. Anyone know the part number(s) of both front wheel speed/ABS sensor wires?
 
With a multi-meter you can figure out which side is bad. This is a post from a thread I made on this topic, was very helpful for me.


I guarantee it's the ABS wire, I had the same thing happen when installing a lift.

You can easily figure out which wire is broken IF you have a multi-meter. I went and bought one for $15 at Wall-Mart and it was well worth it.

For whichever side you want to check first:
1) Unhook the battery
2) Remove the wheel
3) Locate and unplug the ABS sensor wire from the sensor itself
4) Follow the wire up into the engine bay and unplug the other end of the wire as well
5) With the multi-meter set to the continuity setting, place one lead in one end of the harness and the other lead into the other end until you get a continuous reading.
6) Repeat to check the other wire.

If you don't get a reading no matter which lead you put on each wire then both wires are torn, otherwise, this should narrow-down which wire is torn. If you find both wires to be continuous then the tear is on the other wheel's wiring harness. Also, you may need to remove the entire wiring harness unit from the vehicle in order to test it unless you have really long lead wires on the multi-meter.

Once you figure out which wire is torn, cut the wire in half and re-test each piece, this will narrow down where the wire is torn because one piece will be fine and the other one will still not give you a continuous reading on the torn wire. Then keep cutting back a few inches until you narrow in on the town section. Once the torn part has been cut out, simply use some spare wire, wire connectors, electrical tape, and duct tape to make your own new wire (make sure it's long enough, maybe measure existing wire prior to cutting). I say duct tape because I wrapped my new wire in a lot of duct tape when I was done reconnecting everything due to the fact that it will be exposed to dirt/dust/water in the wheel well or engine bay. Once you're done, reconnect the wire, then the battery, then crank it up and there shouldn't be anymore lights! If there are, repeat on the other wheel.

I certainly hope this helps as I just spent 20 minutes typing it on my cell phone...
 
With a multi-meter you can figure out which side is bad. This is a post from a thread I made on this topic, was very helpful for me.

Thank you for this! I was replacing both my upper ball joints today and I must have torn one or the other side. ABS (solid light), multi terrain select, and 4wd indicator were flashing. This will come in handy.
 

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