Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!

Thanks, I've done some more research on rubber/OEM vs poly bushings and better understand the tradeoffs now. For anyone else who's looking at replacing a lot of bushings, [MENTION=163055]psea17[/MENTION] recently posted a list of everything he replaced. If you're like me and starting from a low level of knowledge, you may find it useful. I'll paste it below.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/272852-bushings-parts-retailer.html#post3288738
Here are the parts I ordered (or didn't order in the case of one item noted below for obvious reason): (ITEM PN QTY PRICE) Apologize for formatting.

Front Upper Control Arm Bushings (COTTER PINS NOT INCL) OEM PN 48632-35080 4 $28.09
Cotter Pins for UCA OEM PN 95381-03225 2 $0.89
Inner Tie Rods OEM PN 45503-39075 2 $143.00
Outter Tie Rods (PASS SIDE) (COTTER PINS INCL) OEM PN 45046-39335 1 $50.76
Outter Tie Rods (DRIVER SIDE) (COTTER PINS INCL) OEM PN 45047-39215 1 $50.76
Steering Rack Boots OEM PN 45535-35030 2 $17.85
Inner Steering Rack Boot Clamps OEM PN 90460-62006 2 $5.64
Upper Ball Joint OEM PN 43310-39016 incl boot+ 2 $38.92
Upper Balljoint Reboot Kit (NOT NEEDED; incl in UBJ purchase) OEM PN 43324-39015
Lower Ball Joint (Driver side) (COTTER PINS INCL) OEM PN 43330-39585 1 $99.20
Lower Ball Joint (Pass side) (COTTER PINS INCL) OEM PN 43340-39465 1 $99.20
LBJ Bolts OEM PN 90080-10066 8 $1.22

The remainder of the parts I ordered were all non-oem and ordered via Amazon:

Front Sway Bar Bushings & Endlink Bushings Energy Suspension PN 8.5141G 26mm 1 $20.33
Rack & Pinion Bushings Energy Suspension PN 8.10103G 1 $26.35
Rear Sway Bar Bushings & Endlink Bushings Energy Suspension PN 8.5142G 19mm 1 $20.57
Front Lower Control Arm Bushings Whiteline PN W53377A 1 $64.89
Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing Whiteline PN W63378 1 $65.02
Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Whiteline PN W63379 1 $74.33
 
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norcalassassin said:
just my 2 cents... I am under the impression that most people do the 231 TBU with out changing out their brake lines (usually 20+ yrs old and expand upon pressure). Switching to a SS braided line in conjunction with 231 TBU resolves all soft pedal issues...
Click to expand...

TCMach said:
If you are referring to just the rubber lines & not the entire hard line system atleast in my case this is not true. I have wheelers SS lines and the 231 and the pedal is still softer than the stock brakes. It may be a factor as my pedal isn't as soft as others have reported but it still isn't as firm as the stock system.
Click to expand...

TonyB66 said:
Having installed 231s somewhat recently, I have on my to-do list, to bleed the brake system, again. I too went with ss flex lines front and rear (3 in total). I'm now starting to realize that maybe that won't make a difference...

I'll be pulling a small utility trailer at times, so that was my rationale for the TBU, but I didn't now about these 231 ABS issues, otherwise I would have likely gone with the 199s.

Our friend JZiggy shares some good knowledge in this post:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2709776-post90.html
Click to expand...
i suspect a lot of people having issues with their 231 TBU either staved the abs pump, or didnt fully bleed the system/or just outright bled incorrectly. i see posts where people have issues and a lot of the time, their bleed procedure isnt documented (or documented all that well). not to say this is the problem for everyone, but if you're doing the bleeding alone, its probably pretty easy to starve the ABS unit and not even realize it.

this is also super common in the IS300 (1IS) world where people upgrade to the 2IS calipers. some have zero issues (assuming because they bled properly), and then others have issues with pedal feel and swear that the master cylinder isnt big enough because you went from a 2 pot to 4 pot. the only thing i can think of that is probably the least consistent across the board is how the system is bled. i suspect the same exact thing is happening with this upgrade because you are warned on the 1IS to never starve the ABS pump, otherwise its gotta go to a dealer to get bled (or you have to have a specific bleeder tool).

Bad Luck said:
Poly will be stiffer, but less resistant to oil compared to OEM bushings. If your valve covers leak (pretty common) then you'll get oil from that on your steering rack bushings eventually. The Energy Suspension ones you linked look identical to the one's Wheeler's is selling. I'm not sure if the Whiteline bushings include the metal sleeves or not. Just something to consider.
Click to expand...

poly is also more maintenance in the sense you need to keep the bushings lubed to keep them happy. if they're cleaned and lubed regularly, they should last a very very long time.
 
Last edited:
Given the dramatic price difference between KYB Gas-a-Just struts and the Bilstein 6112/5160 combo, would the 4Runner-specific 5100s (24-248730 and 24-249966) fit the bill as a modest upgrade to The Jack of All Trades build?
 
absalom said:
The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!

By following the below simple recipe, the builder can rest assured they'll end up with an extremely capable, reliable and enjoyable truck that still rides, drives, and feels like a brand new OEM truck. Highway speeds of 85+ are a breeze. Steering will be extremely tight and predictable. And handling will be stellar for a truck of this size and design. This truck will live up to, and exceed, its reputation, and be able to handle any sort of camping trip, off-road excursion, or road trip you can dream up. ​
  • New OEM lower ball joints
    ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
  • New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
  • Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
    • Brake fluid
    • Engine oil
    • Power steering fluid
    • Differential fluid
    • Coolant flush
  • New Energy steering rack bushings
  • New Whiteline lower control arm bushings
  • New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
  • New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
  • New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
  • New OME 906 rear springs
  • New KYB Shocks/Struts
  • New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
  • Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
  • Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
Click to expand...

Does anyone have part numbers for the 99 tall coils from Moog? Or should I go with OEM?
 
absalom said:
Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Pavement Bias

The DD/WW build is aimed at folks who spend the majority of their time on pavement, but frequently take their trucks off-roading on the weekends. Great for a family that enjoys camping, a traveling salesperson, or a hunter. Using premium OEM components where applicable, drivers can rest assured they're getting the best quality on road.​
  • New OEM lower ball joints
  • New OEM radiator
  • New OEM inner and outer tie rods
  • New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
  • Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
    • Brake fluid
    • Engine oil
    • Power steering fluid
    • Differential fluid
    • Coolant flush
  • Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
  • New OEM sway bar links front and rear
  • New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
  • New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
  • New OEM Shocks/Struts
  • New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
Click to expand...

Thank you - just wanted to say how helpful this was.

I have that dreaded wobble at highway speed (60mph) on a 3rd gen 4Runner that I just purchased. I'm using your list as a guide to replace the original suspension components. Can someone help me verify that the following is a good way to go? I'm planning to go all Toyota parts, so I've put in some part numbers below, if that helps anyone.

  • New OEM lower ball joints (F: 43340-39465, R: 43330-39585)
  • New OEM lower ball joint bolts w/washers, 4 per side (90119-10933)
  • New OEM inner tie rods (L&R: 45503-39075)
  • New OEM outer tie rods (L: 45047-39215, R: 45046-39335)
  • New OEM REAR upper control arms (L&R: 48710-35040)
  • New OEM REAR upper control arm bolts (L&R: 90105-12287)
  • New OEM REAR lower control arm (L&R: 48720-35051)
  • New OEM REAR lower control arm bolts (L&R: 90119-14069)
  • New OEM FRONT lower control arm (L&R: 48068-35081)
  • New OEM FRONT lower control arm bolts (L&R: 90080-11283)
  • New OEM sway bar links front and rear (F: 48820-AD010, R: 48830-35020)
  • New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear (F: 48815-35100, R: 48815-10090) + brackets/clamps
  • New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear (LF: 48131-35340, RF: 48131-35400, R: 48231-35210)
  • New OEM Shocks/Struts (F: 48510-39585, R: 48531-80693)
  • New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)

Should I also replace my front upper control arms?

Thank you,
Brian
 
MoogieBoogie said:
Thank you - just wanted to say how helpful this was.

I have that dreaded wobble at highway speed (60mph) on a 3rd gen 4Runner that I just purchased. I'm using your list as a guide to replace the original suspension components. Can someone help me verify that the following is a good way to go? I'm planning to go all Toyota parts, so I've put in some part numbers below, if that helps anyone.

  • New OEM lower ball joints (F: 43340-39465, R: 43330-39585)
  • New OEM lower ball joint bolts w/washers, 4 per side (90119-10933)
  • New OEM inner tie rods (L&R: 45503-39075)
  • New OEM outer tie rods (L: 45047-39215, R: 45046-39335)
  • New OEM REAR upper control arms (L&R: 48710-35040)
  • New OEM REAR upper control arm bolts (L&R: 90105-12287)
  • New OEM REAR lower control arm (L&R: 48720-35051)
  • New OEM REAR lower control arm bolts (L&R: 90119-14069)
  • New OEM FRONT lower control arm (L&R: 48068-35081)
  • New OEM FRONT lower control arm bolts (L&R: 90080-11283)
  • New OEM sway bar links front and rear (F: 48820-AD010, R: 48830-35020)
  • New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear (F: 48815-35100, R: 48815-10090) + brackets/clamps
  • New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear (LF: 48131-35340, RF: 48131-35400, R: 48231-35210)
  • New OEM Shocks/Struts (F: 48510-39585, R: 48531-80693)
  • New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)

Should I also replace my front upper control arms?

Thank you,
Brian
Click to expand...

Front lower control arms are not the same part number. Left 48069-35081. Right 48068-35081. 5th digit in both part numbers is the only difference.

If you have the money to swing for OEM front upper control arms then I would.
 
Bad Luck said:
Front lower control arms are not the same part number. Left 48069-35081. Right 48068-35081. 5th digit in both part numbers is the only difference.

If you have the money to swing for OEM front upper control arms then I would.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the correction!

Hope all of this work will correct my highway swaying/wobbling issue.
 
I recently had a loose and leaking power steering rack, outer tie rods, and LBJs replaced on my 99 Limited. The mechanic indicated the front shock bushings are almost collapsed so I'm using that as an excuse to replace the front and back OEM springs+shocks with 99 tall coils in the front, OME 906 in the rear, and either first-gen Tundra or third-gen 4Runner 5100s all around.

From an effort perspective, which of the other recommendations below from the Jack of All Trades build would make sense to combine with the springs/shocks replacement?

  • New steering rack bushings (I imagine this isn't needed given I just had the rack replaced)
  • New lower control arm bushings
  • New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
  • New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
  • (Anything else?)

Thanks in advance.
 
varol1 said:
which of the other recommendations below from the Jack of All Trades build would make sense to combine with the springs/shocks replacement?

  • New steering rack bushings (I imagine this isn't needed given I just had the rack replaced)
  • New lower control arm bushings
  • New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
  • New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
  • (Anything else?)

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
lower balljoints and the corresponding factory bolts (8 total). if you dont know how old your diff fluid is either, it may be time to change that as well.

i just redid my front end so here is what also recommend (although not needed):
-poly LCA bushings from sonoran steel
-eim keith LCA reinforcements
-CVs and seals (if needed, both sides had torn boots on my rig)

if you're going to do the LCA reinforcements, you might as well buy the PCK from him too. i would have also put poly rack pushings in as well, but not needed since you have fresh rubber ones. mtb tims tutorial is very easy when it comes time to do it.
 
Last edited:
mesooohoppy said:
lower balljoints and the corresponding factory bolts (8 total). if you dont know how old your diff fluid is either, it may be time to change that as well.

i just redid my front end so here is what also recommend (although not needed):
-poly LCA bushings from sonoran steel
-eim keith LCA reinforcements
-CVs and seals (if needed, both sides had torn boots on my rig)

if you're going to do the LCA reinforcements, you might as well buy the PCK from him too. i would have also put poly rack pushings in as well, but not needed since you have fresh rubber ones. mtb tims tutorial is very easy when it comes time to do it.
Click to expand...

Thanks - per my post, the LBJs were replaced recently. I'll inspect the LCAs for any cracking but since I'm not doing much wheeling, will probably skip the reinforcements. Which manufacturer do folks recommend for the aftermarket sway bar links and bushings?
 
varol1 said:
Thanks - per my post, the LBJs were replaced recently. I'll inspect the LCAs for any cracking but since I'm not doing much wheeling, will probably skip the reinforcements. Which manufacturer do folks recommend for the aftermarket sway bar links and bushings?
Click to expand...

sorry i missed that. if your car is lifted get adjustable ones. my sways are at terrible angles with a 3" lift. there is a user on here who makes them. I need to hit him up. i think his name is mstudt or something very similar.
 
absalom said:
The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!
  • New OEM lower ball joints
    ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
  • New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
  • Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
    • Brake fluid
    • Engine oil
    • Power steering fluid
    • Differential fluid
    • Coolant flush
  • New Energy steering rack bushings
  • New Whiteline lower control arm bushings
  • New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
  • New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
  • New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
  • New OME 906 rear springs
  • New KYB Shocks/Struts
  • New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
  • Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
  • Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
Click to expand...

I finally got around to finishing this build, excluding the aftermarket bushings and sway bar links, a few months ago. While the lift looks fantastic with virtually no rake, the ride comfort is more harsh than with the original (200k+ miles) worn-out OEM suspension. I feel every single imperfection on highway roads and do everything in my power to avoid the slightest of cracks on local roads as it jostles the entire vehicle. Is this expected? I would have thought going with KYB would offer a more tolerable ride than Bilsteins.

I've had the entire steering rack (includes inner tie rods), outer tie rods, LBJs, and CVs replaced with OEM. I'm to the point where I'm willing to pay a shop again to swap out struts/shocks and/or springs to get a better ride quality.. that said, I'm hoping there's something else that can be done to improve quality short of going to those lengths.

Thanks in advance.
 
varol1 said:
I finally got around to finishing this build, excluding the aftermarket bushings and sway bar links, a few months ago. While the lift looks fantastic with virtually no rake, the ride comfort is more harsh than with the original (200k+ miles) worn-out OEM suspension. I feel every single imperfection on highway roads and do everything in my power to avoid the slightest of cracks on local roads as it jostles the entire vehicle. Is this expected? I would have thought going with KYB would offer a more tolerable ride than Bilsteins.

I've had the entire steering rack (includes inner tie rods), outer tie rods, LBJs, and CVs replaced with OEM. I'm to the point where I'm willing to pay a shop again to swap out struts/shocks and/or springs to get a better ride quality.. that said, I'm hoping there's something else that can be done to improve quality short of going to those lengths.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
This certainly doesn't mirror my experience at all. I'm thinking there might be something missing. Thankfully you're in Golden, so we can get to the bottom of this together. Shoot me a text with your username @ 303. seven46. 993eight
 
How much would it cost (ballpark) to do The Jack of All Trades in one go? I'm planning to buy a 3rd Gen 4runner 2WD soon and the exterior looks great besides some clear coat peel on the hood, but I don't think he's done any big replacements (timing belt, radiator etc.) Its at 170k miles for $3.8k

New OEM lower ball joints
New Tie Rod Ends
New Radiator
New Timing Belt / Water Pump + All the other parts recommended to replace while replacing the timing belt
Brake fluid
Engine oil
Power steering fluid
Differential fluid
Coolant flush
New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
New OEM rubber lower control arm bushings
New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
New 99 Tall Coils front
New OME 906 rear springs
New OEM Tokico Shocks/Struts
 
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