Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!

[Tchalla]

Hey, this thread is what made me sign up and join. I have a 3rd gen 4runner '98 limited, I mainly use it for on road, and daily driver. I'm deciding what build I should go. I'm leaning towards the maverick build, but my 4runner has 270k miles on it. I don't see what kind of springs are used in the maverick build, would it be the 99' OEM talls also?

 

[danwyl]

Hey, this thread is what made me sign up and join. I have a 3rd gen 4runner '98 limited, I mainly use it for on road, and daily driver. I'm deciding what build I should go. I'm leaning towards the maverick build, but my 4runner has 270k miles on it. I don't see what kind of springs are used in the maverick build, would it be the 99' OEM talls also?

The Bilstein 6112's come with springs if I'm not mistaken.

 

[Endlessblockades]

sorry i missed that. if your car is lifted get adjustable ones. my sways are at terrible angles with a 3" lift. there is a user on here who makes them. I need to hit him up. i think his name is mstudt or something very similar.

Yep here is his site:

Sway Bar Links – Overland Custom Design

Edit - He has a new more traditional design shipping at the end of Oct, but I'll defer to the man himself.

 

[Tchalla]

What strut mounts would I get if I am aiming for maverick build, and is maverick build still relevant for 2020 or is there something on this forum that’s more up to date?

 

[Tchalla]

The Bilstein 6112's come with springs if I'm not mistaken.

Thanks for the info danwyl. I'm looking on the bilstein website and the combo for maverick build 6112 and the 5160 is out of stock... I don't know how longs it's been or when they will be in stock again for 3gen 4runner, but I signed up on email to get notice. I might just get parts separately, but looking more into detail if maverick build is best since I just daily drive on-road with my 3g4r. What are you're thoughts on this?

 

[cheezPoof_4x]

Tchalla, I just had the same realization about the 6112/5160 being out of stock for my 98 Limited �� Also signed up for email notifications. I too wonder how long they've been out of stock and/or how long till they're in stock.

On another note, I've been recommended Dobinson's ~2" kit as an alternative suspension setup, but haven't seen it mentioned in this thread at all. Does anyone have any pros/cons and or experience with Dobinson's? My intentions are to acheive
1)a lift no more than =<3"
2) fit 32-33" tires with no rubbing
3) a nice balance of smooth pavement ride, but capable and durable off-road use
4) Maintain good CoG w/good articulation

This thread has been great through all it's years, thank you all!
-Day 1 member

 

[Bad Luck]

What strut mounts would I get if I am aiming for maverick build, and is maverick build still relevant for 2020 or is there something on this forum that’s more up to date?

OEM or Monroe Strut Top Plate, 95-04 Tacoma, 96-02 4Runner

The below was posted in June of 2019 so still relevant:

Hi all!

I found a burst of passion and was all fired up to edit the original post, but after careful review and deliberation, I've decided to leave it be and simply my post my modifications here.

I hope that at least some folks have found the original guide posted over 4 years ago helpful. In some ways, a lot has changed in that time, but in other ways many of the same basic building blocks remain. After much experimenting, research, and data collecting, I've modified my thoughts on the ideal way to build up these (still) amazing trucks. I hope you'll follow along to see some of the new changes to the builds themselves.

{My current philosophy}:

• Center of gravity is paramount. It's crucial to keep weight as low as possible, while still maintaining up/down travel and factory A-arm geometry.
• Tire size is overrated - for most of us. Tires size doesn't and shouldn't go past 31" unless the builder is prepared to re-gear front and rear. This obviously doesn't apply to extreme wheelers doing trails rated 8+ out of 10. But it also applies to more people than you'd think.
• Accessories should also be kept as low as possible to not take CoG penalty. Unfortunately, many of the rooftop tents, tire carriers, and other high-mounted accessories incur a large CoG penalty, and the vehicle should be driven as such.
• I'm no longer a fan of the TBU after reported safety concerns of it interfering with the ABS system. The stock brakes, in good condition, are more than adequate for this truck - especially when keeping tires sized as described below.
• Armor is awesome! An emphasis should be placed on doing full flat belly and sliders first. I'm less concerned with bumpers, as our trucks have a pretty decent approach/departure angle out of the box. I'd rather drag ass (safely) over an obstacle than be lifted high up and tippy.

Without further adieu, let's jump into my new two favorite build-outs!

The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!

By following the below simple recipe, the builder can rest assured they'll end up with an extremely capable, reliable and enjoyable truck that still rides, drives, and feels like a brand new OEM truck. Highway speeds of 85+ are a breeze. Steering will be extremely tight and predictable. And handling will be stellar for a truck of this size and design. This truck will live up to, and exceed, its reputation, and be able to handle any sort of camping trip, off-road excursion, or road trip you can dream up. ​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
• New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New OEM Tokico Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)

The Maverick - Brand New!!

The spicy version of the above, this build improves much of the suspension performance and wheel control over rough terrain. It also modernizes the lighting for increased safety. This build would suit 99.999% of this forum's wheeling habits. It is certainly a shift away from the old school thought of simply lifting to the moon and slapping massive tires on. The 4x4 community is finally recognizing the value of low CoG, and this build recognizes the tremendous benefits.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
• New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
• New Durobump bumpstops
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New Bilstein 6112's up front
• New Bilstein 5160's out back
• New 265/75/16 all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine) (Highly recommend the Toyo AT2's for this build, in P-rating)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
• HID Projector retrofit (55w D2s in 4300k color temperature)

 

[Tchalla]

Thanks a lot for the strut mount link. I can’t wait to fix my 3g4r it’s been such a faithful truck over 270k miles and still running strong! It creaks pretty bad and is bouncy on the freeway, so I’ve been needing to refresh it. Would I be better off spending more for the maverick or the jack of all trades build. Like what are the pros and cons for each?

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks a lot for the strut mount link. I can’t wait to fix my 3g4r it’s been such a faithful truck over 270k miles and still running strong! It creaks pretty bad and is bouncy on the freeway, so I’ve been needing to refresh it. Would I be better off spending more for the maverick or the jack of all trades build. Like what are the pros and cons for each?

The main difference between the 2 is adjustability and dampening. 6112's are height adjustable vs the tokico's are not. 6112's have a larger piston diameter than tokico's so they have improved dampening performance. 5160's have an external reservoir which allows for cooler operation and longer service life. It's hard to say if it would be worth the extra money to go with 6112/5160 over oem tokico if you are doing majority paved driving.

 

[absalom]

What strut mounts would I get if I am aiming for maverick build, and is maverick build still relevant for 2020 or is there something on this forum that’s more up to date?

Absolutely still relevant. 6112's/5160's are the dream setup (performance per dollar) for this platform.

To clear up the confusion, if you go with 6112's then you don't need to purchase springs separately as they are included.

 

[sugjavier]

Absolutely still relevant. 6112's/5160's are the dream setup (performance per dollar) for this platform.

To clear up the confusion, if you go with 6112's then you don't need to purchase springs separately as they are included.

Also just to clarify for the 6112 and 5160, we're talking about the 4Runner specific ones right?

Part numbers

6112: 47-258624 w/ the 600lb/in coils???
5160 rear driver: 25-268362
5160 rear passenger: 25-268379

 

[Tchalla]

The main difference between the 2 is adjustability and dampening. 6112's are height adjustable vs the tokico's are not. 6112's have a larger piston diameter than tokico's so they have improved dampening performance. 5160's have an external reservoir which allows for cooler operation and longer service life. It's hard to say if it would be worth the extra money to go with 6112/5160 over oem tokico if you are doing majority paved driving.

Thanks for the unbiased input with the pros of the bilstein setup on the Maverick build. I think I'm better off with improved performance and longer life.

 

[Tchalla]

Absolutely still relevant. 6112's/5160's are the dream setup (performance per dollar) for this platform.

Thanks absalom! Dream set up huh and still viable? I've been waiting to refresh my 3g4r for a long time, and I believe I'm going to make it like the Maverick Build. Suspension first of course. Any reliable/trusted sources to get both the 6112's/5160's looks like cheezpoof_4x and I are on the same page with the bilstein website out of stock.

 

[danwyl]

Thanks absalom! Dream set up huh and still viable? I've been waiting to refresh my 3g4r for a long time, and I believe I'm going to make it like the Maverick Build. Suspension first of course. Any reliable/trusted sources to get both the 6112's/5160's looks like cheezpoof_4x and I are on the same page with the bilstein website out of stock.

I've used wheelers offroad a fair few number of times and they haven't done me wrong. Looks like they have the 6112 and 5160's in stock.

 

[Tchalla]

Thanks danwyl! I see that the website has both parts in stock, and for the front 6112 shocks, it's asking me for an option for coils, Bilstein would be the best? There's also kings and WOR (wheeler's off-road). I spoke with a dude named Devin from their site and everything is on backorder till mid-October if I order now because of damn COVID... I did ask him the below questions and he said that I wouldn't need anything beside UCA's if I was to lift it at 2inches because it would barely reach.

For refreshing the 3gen 4runner to the maverick build when I get the 6112's/5160's :
1) Are there other pieces I would need to get before I change suspension? I would need to get the OME 2906 rear springs also, right?
2) What obstacles have you found easier to overcome by doing ________ when changing the suspension?
3) I'll be running at the 0-inch lift for the most part, but if I was to change it up to lift to 2inches what UCA would be best?

 

[danwyl]

For refreshing the 3gen 4runner to the maverick build when I get the 6112's/5160's :
1) Are there other pieces I would need to get before I change suspension? I would need to get the OME 2906 rear springs also, right?
2) What obstacles have you found easier to overcome by doing ________ when changing the suspension?
3) I'll be running at the 0-inch lift for the most part, but if I was to change it up to lift to 2inches what UCA would be best?

1. Make sure you have all the bushings/washers that you need to install everything. You will need a rear spring OME 2906 would be fine here.

2. Wheelers has a service to assemble the strut for you with a top hat. Something to consider if you are already dropping the cash for a pair of 6112's. Compressing springs to take off the top hats was my least favorite part for sure. There are a lot of good resources on here regarding lift installs, just search around.

3. I'm not convinced you need an aftermarket UCA with only 2 inches of lift, but will defer to other people on that one. Seems like SPC, Total Chaos, and Icon are the UCA's that most people run

 

[Tchalla]

Appreciate your help and feedback danwyl! I see the strut mounts do come when you ask for assembly.

What washers and bearings would I need and where would I get them?
And I thought the washers came with the suspension or are there additional ones?
What is this circlip location chart?

I’d rather fix my truck than buy another vehicle. I’m about to purchase the Maverick Bilstein combo off wheelers. Super excited.

 

[absalom]

Appreciate your help and feedback danwyl! I see the strut mounts do come when you ask for assembly.

What washers and bearings would I need and where would I get them?
And I thought the washers came with the suspension or are there additional ones?
What is this circlip location chart?

I’d rather fix my truck than buy another vehicle. I’m about to purchase the Maverick Bilstein combo off wheelers. Super excited.

I don't think I'd pay any extra money for assembly. It's very easy to assemble these on the truck without the use of a spring compressor - simply text me for instructions.

Circlip location chart is included with the struts themselves.

All needed washers and bearings will be included with the kit.

 

[Tchalla]

My 906 came in, but unfortunately, wheelers, Bilstein, and sources absalom even checked are out of stock of the 6112/5160. Was told by Wheeler's to check back in every couple of weeks :sleepy:

 

[Dieselchessy]

I put right about 2” lift on my rig, back is a touch higher.
Shop was able to align in spec for caster, but toward the lower end.
Rig drove ok. Less return to center and more wander/twitchy when cruising rutted highway.
Installed the JBA upper arms and return to center is much quicker and the wandring/twitchyness is gone. Feels like stock again as far as steering.

If I did it again I’d do the uppers at the same time I did the lowers and the lift. Just easier to rip it all apart once.
I did white line lower bushings, OEM ball joints, JBA uppers, 5100’s, tundra TRD coils. Press the coils on the rig.