AC not working.

RoyBell

Member
My AC stopped working this spring. I thought maybe it was low on Freon so I picked up a bottle and tried to get it charged. It wasn't going in and I realized the compressor wasn't kicking on.

I did some light troubleshooting but can't figure it out. I can manually turn the compressor when the car is off, so it's not locked up. When i put the AC to on, the RPMs raise like it's running. I jumped the one sensor on the top and the RPMs raised again but I can't get the compressor to spin. Any thoughts? It's a 99 with 160K miles.
 
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With the engine off, disconnect the wire coming into the AC compressor. Check for the continuity in the AC clutch coil by measuring the resistance in the coil. Place one probe of the multimeter to the body of the compressor and the other right-inside the wire plug connector located on the compressor. You must see a continuity.
 
My AC stopped working this spring. I thought maybe it was low on Freon so I picked up a bottle and tried to get it charged. It wasn't going in and I realized the compressor wasn't kicking on.

I did some light troubleshooting but can't figure it out. I can manually turn the compressor when the car is off, so it's not locked up. When i put the AC to on, the RPMs raise like it's running. I jumped the one sensor on the top and the RPMs raised again but I can't get the compressor to spin. Any thoughts? It's a 99 with 160K miles.

The compressor will shut off if its empty. If full and wont kick over than it could be a dead compressor or wiring going to the unit.

What was the pressure on the recharge kit gauge? I have personally had luck refilling my compressor that had a leak on the low pressure side. If you have a leak on the high pressure side it may need recharged with a vacuum that can be made pretty cheap yourself.
 
If the system is low on refrigerant, the pressure switch will prevent the compressor from engaging. You can use a jumper wire between the terminals in the pigtail for the switch to engage the compressor, with the engine running and the A/C on. That will tell you if the compressor is locked up or not. Assuming it's not, let it run for a few minutes and check the vent temps. If it's cool but not cold, very likely it's undercharged and you should be able to add refrigerant through the low-side port while it's running. If it's blowing cold, then possibly there's an electrical issue preventing the compressor from engaging. If it's blowing hot, possibly it's completely empty or the expansion valve is bad.
 
We need to know pressure, static to start with, then low side values with the system running. See anything in the sight glass on the drier?
 
Thanks guys. I will need to look into this more over the weekend. My steps in spring were as follows. Now I am going off memory which doesn't say much 6 months later :D

1) Tried to fill low side
2) Pressure was high from memory. However, from my past experience with other vehicles, it would show high until the compressor would engage and then it would take it in.
3) Nothing happened. I notice the compressor was not turning
4) I read the internet which said to try jumping pressure switch
5) I jumped pressure switch and engine would increase RPM, but compressor didn't spin.
6) I left it alone since I have other vehicles to drive.

I will check resistance over the weekend. Any specific ohms I should be looking for? It manually spins by hand and the AC worked fine for the past 2 years without needing any charge.
 
I am not sure about the ohms but as log as there is continuity the coil should be good. This is the beauty of a Toyota!
I'll try to get the resistance in one of my car's compressor coil later today and will post it here.
 
I am not sure about the ohms but as log as there is continuity the coil should be good. This is the beauty of a Toyota!
I'll try to get the resistance in one of my car's compressor coil later today and will post it here.

From the 2000 EWD:

A2 A/C MAGNETIC CLUTCH
1−GROUND : Approx. 3.7 Ω

If you get a good reading, the next thing is to see if you have 12V+ on the incoming wire when you are trying to run the A/C. It is possible to have a good coil but a bad (frozen) clutch. It's one reason to run the A/C from time to time over the winter.

Here are the other test points I would check:

A13 A/C SW
6−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with ignition SW at ON position and blower SW on
4−GROUND : Always continuity
6−5 : Closed with A/C SW on
A1 A/C DUAL PRESSURE SW
1−2 : Open with refrigerant pressure at less than approx. 2.0 kgf/cm2 (28.4 psi, 196 kpa) or
more than approx. 32 kgf/cm2 (455 psi, 3138 kpa)

Those are for a 2000. If OP wants info for the right year, he SHOULD POST HIS YEAR!! (pet peeve)
 
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it's in the first post

You're right, I missed it. Still, we prefer people who ask for help put it in their sig so we don't have to go dig for it. I went back, but I only looked at the beginning of the first thread. Anyway, 2000 and 1999 are electrical clones as far as A/C so info is good.
 
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are the EWDs of the Limited's Automatic AC the same for 1999-2000 and 2001-2002? I have the FSM for the 2001-2002 but have not seen the 1999-2000.

Thanks!
 
thanks for the help guys. I didn't know having a sig was mandatory around here :noidea:

It's just friendly advice so you get the best help. Disregard if you choose. You make it harder for me to help you, I'm less inclined to do it.
 
Most relevant thread I could find.

I am in the process of replacing my A/C Clutch, pulley, and magnet. The ground screw is on very tight and I have stripped it trying to remove it. I am going to have to splice the ground wire. Would the magnet still work if I just grounded it to the body instead of the compressor?
 

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