AC warm after recharge.

[Devbot]

I'm not saying forgo a gauge altogether, I'm saying you should be regarding your sight glass during the process; the same as how every bottle of refrigerant and Toyota themselves tell you to. The same thing Timmy says to do.
I have yet to see any refrigerant being sold that doesn't contain a very small amount of stop leak, and afaik the only difference between a regular bottle of recharge and one meant to specifically advertised to fix leaks is how much of this additive in included, including Interdynamics brand which is what Timmy used in his video. But I could be wrong.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

This is a can of strait up 134a no stop leak. I use to have a bunch from DuPont

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[Sparky 97Runner]

In California you can buy 12oz cans of straight R134 without additives at parts stores and Amazon. I guess that other states and countries are different which surprises me because usually its the other way around. To the OP, if you watched Timmys video and are still not feeling good about this I totally get it. It's always nice to have someone with experience take you under their wing the first time working with refrigerants. After that, these systems are pretty simple to work on.

 

[texadelphia]

Thinking back on it, I was really only looking at the cans that came with the hose/gauge assembly attached. There were other cans on the shelf that I really didn't consider. Some of those may have been without sealers added.

I'd definitely prefer to do it myself with a set of gauges but I just don't want to add another one-time use tool to my collection. Plus Timmy didn't really mess with the high side and just made sure the pressure on the high side looked right.

I'm thinking I'll stop by another parts store and see what kind of sealant-free cans they sell with dye and maybe get a hose assembly with a better gauge. I know it's not the "proper" way to do it, but it seems to work well enough for people. I just know that any shop is going to want to charge me to try and find a leak which I can't argue with...it's really the right thing to do. But I'd just like to see how long it will go with a recharge.

I just went out to check the sight glass and the compressor isn't kicking on anymore, likely because the charge is so low and it's cooler here today so the pressure has likely dropped since I put that little squirt of refrigerant in yesterday.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thinking back on it, I was really only looking at the cans that came with the hose/gauge assembly attached. There were other cans on the shelf that I really didn't consider. Some of those may have been without sealers added.

I'd definitely prefer to do it myself with a set of gauges but I just don't want to add another one-time use tool to my collection. Plus Timmy didn't really mess with the high side and just made sure the pressure on the high side looked right.

I'm thinking I'll stop by another parts store and see what kind of sealant-free cans they sell with dye and maybe get a hose assembly with a better gauge. I know it's not the "proper" way to do it, but it seems to work well enough for people. I just know that any shop is going to want to charge me to try and find a leak which I can't argue with...it's really the right thing to do. But I'd just like to see how long it will go with a recharge.

I just went out to check the sight glass and the compressor isn't kicking on anymore, likely because the charge is so low and it's cooler here today so the pressure has likely dropped since I put that little squirt of refrigerant in yesterday.

Try and piece together the piercing part with a port for a spin on gauge to measure the suction pressure.

I looked for the AC performance specs for our 3rd Gen in my file cabinet and don’t have them printed out. But unless you vac out the system and put two 12oz cans in. You need those ambient temp specs to know what suction pressure you need for your local temps. Plus I think 900rpm is the spec to measure the suction pressure not curb idle.

Edit. I have two can piercing setups to connect to the low side test port. The suction gauge I bought threads into the hose the goes to the suction test port. I just removed the can piercing valve and threaded the gauge into where it was.


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[texadelphia]

Try and piece together the piercing part with a port for a spin on gauge to measure the suction pressure.

I looked for the AC performance specs for our 3rd Gen in my file cabinet and don’t have them printed out. But unless you vac out the system and put two 12oz cans in. You need those ambient temp specs to know what suction pressure you need for your local temps. Plus I think 900rpm is the spec to measure the suction pressure not curb idle.

Edit. I have two can piercing setups to connect to the low side test port. The suction gauge I bought threads into the hose the goes to the suction test port. I just removed the can piercing valve and threaded the gauge into where it was.


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Is this what you're looking for?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Looking at the high side is kind of important and kind of not. It helps you know how well your condenser if preforming.

Refrigerant has a pressure temperature relationship, the high side should be 100psi above ambient local temps. So for that you need to look at the pressure/temperature chart for 134a and see what the pressure should be for your local temp and add that to the 100psi. The AC performance chart in the FSM will also give you a range of pressure for the high side based on outside temp and humidity conditions. That chart is usually a 10 degree span. So you will have a min and max.

90% of the time if your AC is cold driving and not so cold in stop and go traffic it’s your clutch for the cooling fan not spinning the fan fast enough to cool and condense the 134a from a gas to a liquid by the time it leaves the condenser.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Is this what you're looking for?

If that’s from the Toyota fsm then yes. 1500 rpm etc and slowly add 134a into the system until you hit those numbers.

I used the AC specs for my 04 WJ grand Cherokee because they have identical systems and it worked.


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[texadelphia]

I found some sealant-free refrigerant with dye at Autozone. I hooked it up and tried to add it to the system. After holding it on there for 30 seconds or so the compressor kicked on and pressure went to zero on the gauge. I'd hold the trigger for a while but every time I let go the pressure never climbed above zero and the can didn't feel any lighter although I could see some dye on the valve. The only time the gauge shows pressure is when the compressor is off. The pressure with the compressor off is at the upper end full but that pressure is meaningless right? I'm perplexed. When I let go of the trigger and the compressor is running I should see pressure right?

The only question mark is that the cans I got are the pierce style and the hose I'm using came on a can with an auto seal top. I read that the new valves are backward compatible with the old style puncture cans but maybe not?

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[19963.4lsr5]

When you look at the pressure without the compressor running that really just shows you if there are any non condensable gases in the system. ALA atmosphere. If it goes to zero psi when the compressor kicks in you really should vacuum it and look for leaks.

24oz of 134a is a lot of refrigerant. A couple seconds filling it will not make it happy. It’s two cans worth of 134a.


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[texadelphia]

When you look at the pressure without the compressor running that really just shows you if there are any non condensable gases in the system. ALA atmosphere. If it goes to zero psi when the compressor kicks in you really should vacuum it and look for leaks.

24oz of 134a is a lot of refrigerant. A couple seconds filling it will not make it happy. It’s two cans worth of 134a.


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I might just need to take it to the shop.

I had tried filling it for like 10 straight minutes and it seemed like very little came out of the can and the gauge never moved off of zero.

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[texadelphia]

I should also mention that I checked the sight glass after the compressor was on and I could see small bubbles. It didn't look foamy, just small bubbles.

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[texadelphia]

I found some sealant-free refrigerant with dye at Autozone. I hooked it up and tried to add it to the system. After holding it on there for 30 seconds or so the compressor kicked on and pressure went to zero on the gauge. I'd hold the trigger for a while but every time I let go the pressure never climbed above zero and the can didn't feel any lighter although I could see some dye on the valve. The only time the gauge shows pressure is when the compressor is off. The pressure with the compressor off is at the upper end full but that pressure is meaningless right? I'm perplexed. When I let go of the trigger and the compressor is running I should see pressure right?

The only question mark is that the cans I got are the pierce style and the hose I'm using came on a can with an auto seal top. I read that the new valves are backward compatible with the old style puncture cans but maybe not?

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Just checked the product page for the hose/gauge I was using and it says it only works with self-sealing cans, not the puncture type. I'm guessing this might be why no refrigerant was going into the system.

AFGBM3-6 | Arctic Freeze™ Auto A/C Recharge Reusable R-134a Gauge & Hose

 

[jgue467]

Wrong connector?! Maybe for different type of refrigerant?

So if you do get the correct type, when filling the can will get cold, this indicates pressure dropping in the can and increasing in system. The filling, either liquid (can upside down) or gas (right side up) only takes about 1 minute, if that much. Many times my daugher's prius only takes about 30 seconds to go from low to mid green, maybe less. Its a quick process.

If some freon remains in can, do not remove the connector, save as is for next time. This is gonna work!

 

[texadelphia]

Success! Using the new style of connector apparently doesn't work with the old style of puncture cans...go figure. I tracked down a can with a self-sealing valve this morning and was able to fill the system with the hose/gauge I had. It's blowing ice cold now. It only took one small can to get up to pressure so it doesn't seem like it was totally empty. I'm guessing it's a small leak that just finally got low enough that the ac stopped working. I'll check it over the next couple weeks to see if it seems to be losing any at a noticeable rate. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Bad Luck]

I'm not saying forgo a gauge altogether, I'm saying you should be regarding your sight glass during the process; the same as how every bottle of refrigerant and Toyota themselves tell you to. The same thing Timmy says to do.
I have yet to see any refrigerant being sold that doesn't contain a very small amount of stop leak, and afaik the only difference between a regular bottle of recharge and one meant to specifically advertised to fix leaks is how much of this additive in included, including Interdynamics brand which is what Timmy used in his video. But I could be wrong.

The stuff we use at my shop is pure refrigerant without any additives

 

[jgue467]

The stuff we use at my shop is pure refrigerant without any additives

Wallymart sells a 100% refrigerant only 12oz can for about $5...as well as the oil included and ink type if need be.....

 

[diverscale]

The can says it's R134. You can't even buy R12 anymore. I know because I tried to track some down for.my 91 corolla.

I considered getting a vacuum pump and set of gauges but I wanted to give this a shot first in case it's just a slow leak from age.

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If he's doing this on his 97 4Runner he has a factory R134A system, not R12. I would stay away from parts store refrigerant with leak sealers but straight 134A should be fine. Refrigerants are very highly regulated and I seriously doubt they would try to mix it with propane.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...-recharge-kit-0146129p.html?_br_psugg_q=freon

I have written ''R12A'', but my memory failed me, and it's ''12A''. It's written R134A on the can but it might not be R134, here in canada, I never see R134A in cans, we get cans which are written R134A but is 12A inside, which is not freon, it's some kind of propane.

Look everywhere on the can you bought and be sure it is NOT this very common 12A and REAL 134A.

I've tried, and mixing both is a real mess, also, that R134A replacement really sucks even with the perfect vaccuum and fill. If you mixed, simply have to vaccuum and fill back with the real deal.

edit: seen that you got your system back to cold, glad you got it going, you saved a LOT of $$$. I am at my 3Rd A/C system overhaul, so imagine how much it's possible to save with a good manifold set and a 100$ vacuum pump. Also, the new type of cans is IMO better, since I can leave a can half used and finish it on a later job without having to leave the fitting screwed on them permanently.