AC warm after recharge.

[texadelphia]

Refrigerant was slightly low in my system and compressor wasn't kicking on so I topped it off with a parts store can. Didn't take much but compressor is kicking on now but it's still blowing warm. Any ideas?

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[azrex]

Does it cycle rapidly on and off? Could be still low or could be overcharged.

 

[Sparky 97Runner]

Your probably still low if the compressor just started kicking on. I'd suggest finding the leak if you are that low. Check the valve cores with some leak detector solution and charge the system with some 134A with UV dye to find the leak. I think that Tim and Sean have a video on charging these systems so I would also check that out. Just FYI there should be roughly 23 oz of refrigerant in these systems when they are charged. Don't over charge.

 

[diverscale]

You used ''part store'' ''gas'' which is probably that crap which is basically propane gas.

Now you have R134A mixed with R12A probably, which are not compatible as far as I know.

Best thing you can do is, buy a A/C vaccuum pump on amazon, some R134A cans, an AC manifold, and a ACdryer filter for your truck

Exchange the dryer filter. Change your two valves (probably where you got your leak to begin with, very easy).

Vacuum the system for 30 minutes and charge back with pure R134A.

There is no simple way you will get your A/C to blow ice cold beside doing it the ''right'' way.

 

[texadelphia]

The can has a built in gauge and when I hooked it up it was in the "low" range. I squeezed the trigger for probable 3-5 seconds before the compressor kicked on and the gauge went to zero..I'm assuming because the coolant was moving through the system. I turned the ac off again and the gauge was in the green "charged" zone. The compressor comes on and stays on when the ac is on and I can hear a kind of whistle/hiss coming from inside the dash that goes away when I turn the ac button off. Not like a leak sound, but a coolant moving through the system sound.

Does checking the gauge with the ac off and compressor not running mean anything or should the ac be on when I'm checking the gauge? I just didn't want to overfill it.

I wouldn't be surprised if the system was low based on the age. I'll try to find the Tim video. I'm suspecting that I did something wrong.

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[Devbot]

I'm going with the above comments, in that order. It's probably underfilled - the can should've came with a little gauge to show you how full your system is. Don't stop because the compressor came on, keep going till the needle is in the green on said gauge.
If you DID do this, I'm gonna assume it was the wrong type of refrigerant, as not many people are aware there's two (or three?) kinds.
If you filled it correctly AND you know it was R134A, and the system is already low again, you certainly have a leak though i bet it would be substantial for this to happen.

 

[texadelphia]

You used ''part store'' ''gas'' which is probably that crap which is basically propane gas.



Now you have R134A mixed with R12A probably, which are not compatible as far as I know.



Best thing you can do is, buy a A/C vaccuum pump on amazon, some R134A cans, an AC manifold, and a ACdryer filter for your truck



Exchange the dryer filter. Change your two valves (probably where you got your leak to begin with, very easy).



Vacuum the system for 30 minutes and charge back with pure R134A.



There is no simple way you will get your A/C to blow ice cold beside doing it the ''right'' way.

The can says it's R134. You can't even buy R12 anymore. I know because I tried to track some down for.my 91 corolla.

I considered getting a vacuum pump and set of gauges but I wanted to give this a shot first in case it's just a slow leak from age.

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[Sparky 97Runner]

You used ''part store'' ''gas'' which is probably that crap which is basically propane gas.

Now you have R134A mixed with R12A probably, which are not compatible as far as I know.

If he's doing this on his 97 4Runner he has a factory R134A system, not R12. I would stay away from parts store refrigerant with leak sealers but straight 134A should be fine. Refrigerants are very highly regulated and I seriously doubt they would try to mix it with propane.

 

[Sparky 97Runner]

Does checking the gauge with the ac off and compressor not running mean anything or should the ac be on when I'm checking the gauge? I just didn't want to overfill it.

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Yes, the AC should be on when checking the gauge. Here's the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlRE0Zeeyrc

 

[texadelphia]

If he's doing this on his 97 4Runner he has a factory R134A system, not R12. I would stay away from parts store refrigerant with leak sealers but straight 134A should be fine. Refrigerants are very highly regulated and I seriously doubt they would try to mix it with propane.

I tried to get one without any sealer in it but every single can on the shelf had some sort of sealer in it. Maybe I'll go to a different store and see if I can find something without sealer. Luckily I barely put any in. This is what I got.

Big Chill(R) | BC-1 R-134a Trigger Recharge Dispenser

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[texadelphia]

Yes, the AC should be on when checking the gauge. Here's the video.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlRE0Zeeyrc

After watching this I think I'm just going to find a shop to recharge it and go from there. I don't want to spend the money on a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump. When I went down this road with my Corolla I ended up spending over a grand for a shop to chase a leak which never was fully resolved so I'm a little gunshy about dealing with a shop but I also don't want a bunch of tools that I'm only going to use once.

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[jgue467]

... This is what I got.

Big Chill(R) | BC-1 R-134a Trigger Recharge Dispenser...

That will work just fine. It has a small amount of lubricant for the old seals, nothing bad there.

You can do this, its not difficult, I taught my daughter to do it on her prius.

So get the vehicle warmed up - temps outside warm, not 50 like it is this morning in central texas. A/C on with fan at High or one notch below it.

Connect to low pressure, as you already have. If you hold can upright, it will dispense gas slowly compared to flipping it over where it will dispense fluid much faster, so take your pick.

When you depress handle, it it normal for pressure needle to drop to zero, hold it depressed for about 5 seconds and check needle pressure. Aim for the middle of the green zone. If at start of green, use the gas upright position so not too much gas goes in at once.

Wait about 30 seconds with a/c on to let things equalize, check needle pressure again, if steady in middle of green, you are done.

If it all leaks out within a week or so, then a mechanic is probably a better answer to repair the leak rather than adding freon so often. Luck.

 

[Drew76]

If he's doing this on his 97 4Runner he has a factory R134A system, not R12. I would stay away from parts store refrigerant with leak sealers but straight 134A should be fine. Refrigerants are very highly regulated and I seriously doubt they would try to mix it with propane.

In Canada you can't buy refrigerants over the counter, so the parts store re-charge cans are filled with other things like propane, I've never tried them myself. Common for guys on vacation in the states to pick up a few cans and smuggle them back over the border.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Three things I would also check:
1. Make sure the blend door is closing.
2. The cleanliness of the evaporator

If one has the correct amount of refrigerant in the system and it is still blowing warm it may be time for a new expansion valve, which if necessary, one should replace the evaporator at the same time.

 

[FordF150]

Take it to a professional AC place

Could be evaporator core (leak)
compressor leak (old).

freon leak:fish:

 

[Bad Luck]

After watching this I think I'm just going to find a shop to recharge it and go from there. I don't want to spend the money on a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump. When I went down this road with my Corolla I ended up spending over a grand for a shop to chase a leak which never was fully resolved so I'm a little gunshy about dealing with a shop but I also don't want a bunch of tools that I'm only going to use once.

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That would be your best route since they have all the necessary equipment. I'd ask them to add additional ac dye for future checking. You can get an ac leak detection light and glasses on amazon for cheap so you can check it yourself periodically. Here's the one I use for ac leak diagnosis at work: Amazon.com: TaoTronics TT-FL002 Black Light, 51 LEDs Uv Blacklight Flashlights Detector for Dry Pets Urine & Stains & Bed Bug with Free Uv Sunglasses & 3 Free AA Batteries, Purple: Pet Supplies

If there is a problem Bamadrewski has a very complete write up on replacing the entire ac system: DIY Complete AC Replacement on 2000 T4R Limited

In case anyone is wondering the 3 types of automotive refrigerant are R-12 (older cars that should retrofit to R-134a), R-134a (R-12's more eco friendly replacement), and R-1234yf (newest cars use this, and R-134a's eco neutral replacement). All 3 systems have different fittings so that you can't accidentally charge a system meant for one refrigerant with the wrong refrigerant.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Over the years I acquired a used 6cfm vacuum pump and a electronic leak detector.

The strait up cans of 134a will not have a suction gauge and your suction pressure is going to be different depending on how hot it is outside.

You can purchase the parts at the autoparts stores to put a suction gauge on a charging setup that also pierces the can.

But yes that suction pressure is with your doors open and ac on Max and your engine being held at a certain rpm above idle. Your suction pressure will be higher at idle than at 1200rpm for a given charge.


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[Devbot]

...Luckily I barely put any in. This is what I got...

Everyone glazing right over this...
Put the correct amount in your vehicle before contemplating spending another $100+ for someone else to do it, just because you've encountered a hiccup. You're just paying them to wipe your ass and hold your hand.
We're on page 2 and nobody has even mentioned using the sight glass yet. A big red flag to me that going to a shop is being recommended before doing this.

 

[Bad Luck]

Everyone glazing right over this...
Put the correct amount in your vehicle before contemplating spending another $100+ for someone else to do it, just because you've encountered a hiccup. You're just paying them to wipe your ass and hold your hand.
We're on page 2 and nobody has even mentioned using the sight glass yet. A big red flag to me that going to a shop is being recommended before doing this.

I recommended taking it somewhere to get charged because the OP can't find any refrigerant without the ac leak seal stuff that isn't good for your compressor. I wouldn't touch that canned refrigerant with the leak additive in it with a ten foot pole. I've seen them cause more trouble than good.

I tried to get one without any sealer in it but every single can on the shelf had some sort of sealer in it. Maybe I'll go to a different store and see if I can find something without sealer. Luckily I barely put any in. This is what I got.

Big Chill(R) | BC-1 R-134a Trigger Recharge Dispenser

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[19963.4lsr5]

Everyone glazing right over this...
Put the correct amount in your vehicle before contemplating spending another $100+ for someone else to do it, just because you've encountered a hiccup. You're just paying them to wipe your ass and hold your hand.
We're on page 2 and nobody has even mentioned using the sight glass yet. A big red flag to me that going to a shop is being recommended before doing this.

I never use the sight glass for 134a systems. Too many times the oil can be confused with 134a vapor and it gets overcharged.

R12 systems that sight glass is the gauge free way to charge.


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