ACC line dead?

WebDog

New member
The other day i stick my keys in and none of my audio / video starts up i think some how the ACC line is dead.

I checked all the fused that i could find none where blown.

could their be a hidden ACC fuse?

Please help.

Thanks
 
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i just looked agian and i blew the radio fuse 7.5 amp so im going to rewire some of my equiptment to run off the cigarette line thats 20 amp. last night i looked at the fuses and pulled the wrong one for radio :( but i found it:) i got a lil scared their.

this one was next to the driver foot rest.
 
Take the uncertainty out of the equation by starting from scratch.

1. ensure that the acc line is blown - verify and re-verify that the acc line is indeed blown.

Option 1:
2. if it's blown, check fuse in dash and under hood.
3. if line is still dead then wire could be fried

Option 2:
2. if line is ok, check your fuse to your radio and your accessories (amp etc etc). check fuse at battery terminal to ensure that's not blown

if all else fails, remove audio equipment and test all lines. check and recheck.

Check all spots by removing all the possibilities.

good luck
 
You shouldn't use the ACC line to power equipment. At 7.5A, it's really only rated to handle turn-on circuits (relays, etc) and such. For new equipment, consider installing a new (fused) circuit directly from the battery. Alternatively, the cigarette lighter circuit is completely unused (assuming you don't have the optional ashtray and lighter). I believe that one is rated at 15A. That should be enough to power a few low power accessories.
 
Yea :(

im gona rewire my setup a bit the only things i use the acc for is the radio turn on amp turn on and lcd and fm modulator.

is what happend i added a laptop dc -dc power to it thats when it blew.

so im gona move that to my unused cig circut as that is switched to.

my amp still dont come on :(
the fuse is good on it.
 
The radio should be wired up to your stock lines using the plug in provided at local shops (toyota harness). The amp should be powered directly from the battery along w/ the lcd and fm mod.

Check your fuse to your amp (internal fuse) as you prob blew that too.
 
The turn-on signals are fine on the ACC line -- though you normally want your head unit to turn-on your amp (to avoid turn-on thud). The power lines to the amp, lcd, fm modulator or any other accessories should not be on that line -- no matter how small they are. It's not intended to be used for that purpose.

You can probably move the fm modulator and lcd to the stereo power feed. Plug your laptop into the 12V recepticle or use the unused 12v cigarrete circuit (under the center console).
 
It was a series of problems

1. The ACC fuse was blown.
2. The turn on wire to the amp was cut.

After I corrected both problems the system works like a charm again. Im not going put my more equip on the acc line as it seems well loaded as it is and im gona rewire the LCD, FM mod to the 20 amp cig line aswell as the laptop.

I’m going hook up a second cig socket under the front seat to run the laptop off.

I seem to get some fuzz / interference in the music when using the laptop on the DC-DC converter any reason for that you think??? Should I put a noise filter on the line before the DC-DC?

Thanks for your help.
 
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A line filter may help. Laptop sound systems (built-in) are notorious for poor sound quality. You may also be picking up noise in your RCA cables running between your laptop and Amp. An easy way to virtually eliminate all sources of noise is to go with an external USB sound device (Soundblaster MP3+ or Audigy NX). You can place the device right next to your amp and run very short RCA cables. Your music stays digital right up to the last second. The USB cable can be upto ~12-15ft. If you need longer you can get a hub (or USB active cable extension = 1 port hub).
 
I'm no guru when it comes to audio but....

I would setup a separate circuitry for the accessory power you're using. I wouldn't try to tap the lines from existing ones from the truck. Most of those are not rated for extra crap to begin with.

That said, just get a direct feed like from the battery so you have direct power. If you still want it to go on only when the key is in the ignition (acc/power) then I'd say setup a relay that'll tap the acc line to turn on the power to the rest of the goods you have.

Those cig lighters are good for 1 good accessory but adding too much can lead to shorts and who knows what.

Better safe than sorry (I say). Plus it looks cleaner and it's a mod you can show off :)

Good luck
 
While everything is working now again.

I put my laptop dc-dc on the cig circuit and that loads it all just right.

When I bought the car in March it was all ripped up wires everywhere, I took about 2 weeks to get it all looking right and hidden.

the car had a DVD player off the acc line that I removed and put the LCD on it, the LCD I got uses less power then the DVD so that is fine.
I made the mistake the other day by hooking up the AUX cig socket to the wrong circuit gets a lil confusing under the passenger seat.

But now it’s all sorted out and for now I am done. Until my next great idea. Haha...this is kind of a tmp install in a way, I plan on having the computer do 100% of audio but I need 4 Chan amps more wires and more comp equip before I do that.
I made the mistake of piecing my system together so i'm gona get all the stuff first before I do it in the car make it all neat and go fast.
 
i still get some interferince from the audio / video from the laptop when i run on the dc-dc when im on hte laptop batt or AC it works fine cd Q im gona try a line filter tomarrow and hope it helps it.

i guess it could be that i bught a cheap ebay dc-dc adapter???

any one else have this prob?
 

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