Accesory fuse box install

[blueblur1984]

I like the idea of having lots of aftermarket accessories but have learned over the years not to mess with something that is not broken...specifically the unmolested factory wiring in my t4r. I found this write up and though it was a nice compromise:

4Runners.org- Installing a Fused Distribution Box

Here is my spin on this build.

The first step was deciding where I wanted my fuse box and negative distribution panel to be...after some thought the path of least resistance seemed preferable. I uninstalled the 12 CD changer (that doesn't work with my updated cd player any how) and used it as a template to cut out some particle board.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860710259/" title="cell phone pics 613 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3827/8860710259_90b2e5ee28.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 613"></a>

The next step was to prepare the wiring by measuring how far it all needed to go, crimping on some ring connectors and running them to the appropriate locations. As with the write up I used for an example I installed a 125 amp ANL fuse by bolting the fuse holder to the top of the fuse box. The fuse box can still be opened and accessed like normal.

I can't stress this part enough...spend the $10-15 and get a wire crimper. I've tried using channel locks before and it's just not going to do the job of a hammer style crimper.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861315714/" title="cell phone pics 615 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3723/8861315714_35a368f731.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 615"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860698337/" title="cell phone pics 618 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2863/8860698337_32b78aba30.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="cell phone pics 618"></a>

Next you have to run the wire to where you want it. Going from the battery back:

About 10" of 4 gauge wire from the positive terminal to the ANL fuse
Another 4-5' of 4 gauge to the positive end of the switch installed in the dash (you will need to poke a hole through the grommet to clear the wire)
A ground for the switch
3-4' from the last terminal of the switch, under the body panels and to the underside of the driver seat

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860694485/" title="cell phone pics 620 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8280/8860694485_54144efed8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 620"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860692723/" title="cell phone pics 621 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/8860692723_7001a73aba.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 621"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861299786/" title="cell phone pics 622 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5339/8861299786_e120db5dbf.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 622"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860688873/" title="cell phone pics 623 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3791/8860688873_7de6e2cbd0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 623"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861297546/" title="cell phone pics 624 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8547/8861297546_4a103445be.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 624"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860686827/" title="cell phone pics 625 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7425/8860686827_aa64c24f61.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 625"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860685417/" title="cell phone pics 626 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8278/8860685417_59df83006e.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="cell phone pics 626"></a>

Now we have our fuse box. If I could do it again differently I would have spent the extra money on a fuse box that had the negative distribution panel built in, but I got a seperate panel for the negative lead. PS the paint on the particle board is just rattle can chalk board.

First I lined up the fuse panel to where I wanted it before screwing it on to the board.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861292766/" title="cell phone pics 627 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7437/8861292766_f2b3f0c518.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="cell phone pics 627"></a>

A close up of the inverter I will use before install

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860681109/" title="cell phone pics 628 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/8860681109_89b5ebd36e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 628"></a>

Here is the fuse box after being drilled down. Some cheapo plastic wire holders (not sure what they're called) and zip ties from china freight helps keep everything neat and tidy.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861289516/" title="cell phone pics 629 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5343/8861289516_50eface7eb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 629"></a>

Here is the negative distribution panel I will use to keep everything tidy. Eventually this is hooked up to a 8-10" long negative battery cable so that I only need one ground for all the accessories...keeps the rat's nest at bay.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860677595/" title="cell phone pics 630 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8279/8860677595_26a835d2eb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 630"></a>

Make sure you tin and solder any wires together if you need some more slack. This goes to my CB mounted in the dash.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861285002/" title="cell phone pics 631 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/8861285002_1a70b280bb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 631"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861320442/" title="cell phone pics 612 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3812/8861320442_6ed3dbdb03.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 612"></a>

Here's the same bundle a little futher along

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861279672/" title="cell phone pics 633 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7298/8861279672_168fc5081f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 633"></a>

And that battery cable we talked about earlier just reaches the rear seat bolt on the transmission tunnel. I had to bore out the hole a tiny bit...a dremmel or drill press will come in handy here, but a circular file will do the trick too.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861272704/" title="cell phone pics 636 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8539/8861272704_8959dd81e2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 636"></a>

And here is the ground wire install. You will need to bend back the lead a tiny bit to make it fit the contour of the seat bracket, but this is an easy task. Just clamp down the very end of it to get some leverage and bend as necessary.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8861270564/" title="cell phone pics 637 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2811/8861270564_0f19e9f7ce.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 637"></a>

Last step is optional. I wanted a more standard style terminal so I bought these at my local west marine. Here they are installed. Again, the dremmel is your friend here because I needed to bore out the ring connectors to make them slip on terminals. You should also install a beefier ground regardless of whether or not you change the battery terminals out.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/96555314@N02/8860657597/" title="cell phone pics 639 by blueblur19841, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/8860657597_d260664d78.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cell phone pics 639"></a>

Hope you guys like this write up and feel free to give me any feedback if you have a recommendations. Until then I'll see you at the next one...my shot shocks are a good excuse to do a toytect life kit.

 

[SparkEE]

Looks great. I like how you kept it all neat and organized. The location is a good idea as well.

A word of caution - you might consider changing that 125 Amp fuse to something smaller, such as the rating for that rocker switch you installed (most likely in the 15 to 30 amp range). By running your leads from the battery to the switch then to the distribution panel your switch has become the limiting factor. That 4 gauge wire will handle a lot more current that that switch will...

As an alternative, you could install a heavy duty relay or starter relay and trigger it off your rocker switch. That will allow you to handle more load from that distribution panel.

 

[blueblur1984]

Looks great. I like how you kept it all neat and organized. The location is a good idea as well.

A word of caution - you might consider changing that 125 Amp fuse to something smaller, such as the rating for that rocker switch you installed (most likely in the 15 to 30 amp range). By running your leads from the battery to the switch then to the distribution panel your switch has become the limiting factor. That 4 gauge wire will handle a lot more current that that switch will...

As an alternative, you could install a heavy duty relay or starter relay and trigger it off your rocker switch. That will allow you to handle more load from that distribution panel.

Definitely taking the relay to heart. The original plan was to do a solenoid but it seemed like I had to tap into the original wiring harness to do that and part of what I was going for was something that could be easily removed if necessary.

Now if I went with a smaller ANL fuse (let's say 30 amp) would that impede my ability to run multiple accessories at once (assuming the switch wasn't the limiting factor)? Right now it's not a big concern because I'm only running the inverter and a CB, but eventually I want to have all 6 spots filled up. Thanks in advance and any input would be much appreciated.

 

[shootmymime]

how much has this cost you so far? this summer im planning installing rock lights and lights up top. i want to tear my carpet our and power wash it because it gross. might as well do some other installation while im at it.

i love your spot!

 

[blueblur1984]

how much has this cost you so far? this summer im planning installing rock lights and lights up top. i want to tear my carpet our and power wash it because it gross. might as well do some other installation while im at it.

i love your spot!

Thanks! I decided the cd changer was out dated so no sense in making new holes. I should probably see if there's any value in selling it.

Hard to say exactly because some of this stuff were yanked from my scout before I sold it. If I had to ball park it around $200. It was about $160 on amazon but I have a TON of leftover 4gauge black and red wire (probably about 10ft of red and 23ft of black), $40 at west marine (switch, ring conncectors and negative distribution panel), and whatever the extra odds and ends would have cost.

The MDF I had lying around from a speaker box project but that's pretty cheap. I had a mess of leftover hardware, zip ties, screws etc from other projects. Lots of simple green to clean the inside of my dash. Really the only big ticket items that are unaccounted for in the $200 figure are the CB radio, firestik antenna and power inverter, but most of this can be had pretty cheaply second hand off craigslist.

Best of luck with any projects you pick up and be sure to catalog your work on here for the rest of us!

 

[SparkEE]

The original plan was to do a solenoid but it seemed like I had to tap into the original wiring harness to do that and part of what I was going for was something that could be easily removed if necessary.

If you were to add the relay in place of the rocker, you would only be changing the wiring you just added, no interface with the factory harness at all. You can get a 50 to 60 amp automotive style relay for $10 to $15.

If you go to a smaller fuse, then yes, the amount you can run off of that would be limited. However, even at 30 amps, that is still quite a bit of power. It really depends on what you have hooked up.

Can't tell from the pics but what is the wattage on your inverter?

 

[blueblur1984]

If you were to add the relay in place of the rocker, you would only be changing the wiring you just added, no interface with the factory harness at all. You can get a 50 to 60 amp automotive style relay for $10 to $15.

If you go to a smaller fuse, then yes, the amount you can run off of that would be limited. However, even at 30 amps, that is still quite a bit of power. It really depends on what you have hooked up.

Can't tell from the pics but what is the wattage on your inverter?

If that's the case the relay sounds like a no brainer and I can save the switch for the fogs I'm looking at. The guy at west marine was realling pushing the solenoid but if I can find a less invasive way to accomplish a similar outcome I'm all for it.

The inverter can handle 400 watts continuous and 800 watts peak. I probably won't need even close to this though. I don't think I'll ever run more than a cell phone or a lap top off of it. Maybe in a real pinch something like a corded drill but that is unlikely. I'm more concerned about about the number of accessories I'd be running and the cumulative load they'd put on the system. Here's the inverter I have.

Amazon.com: Cobra CPI 480 400-Watt 12-Volt DC to 120-Volt AC Power Inverter with 5-Volt USB Output: Car Electronics

 

[BrianSD_42]

Nice job. that looks very heavy duty.

I did something similar but my fuse box was placed in the engine bay.

 

[SparkEE]

If that's the case the relay sounds like a no brainer and I can save the switch for the fogs I'm looking at. The guy at west marine was realling pushing the solenoid but if I can find a less invasive way to accomplish a similar outcome I'm all for it.

The inverter can handle 400 watts continuous and 800 watts peak. I probably won't need even close to this though. I don't think I'll ever run more than a cell phone or a lap top off of it. Maybe in a real pinch something like a corded drill but that is unlikely. I'm more concerned about about the number of accessories I'd be running and the cumulative load they'd put on the system. Here's the inverter I have.

Amazon.com: Cobra CPI 480 400-Watt 12-Volt DC to 120-Volt AC Power Inverter with 5-Volt USB Output: Car Electronics

You will still need the switch to power the relay. The relay is a switch itself that is triggered off 12 volts. If you used the switch to trigger the relay, you will have the same functionality you have now, but with the capacity of the relay. The reason for using the relay is you can get one with a higher current rating than the switch.

The 'accessory' in this pic would be your fuse block. The 'switch' is your current rocker switch.
http://www.ripper1.com/tech/wiring/negative_switch.gif

The solenoid the guy is pushing would wire in the same as the relay. Think of the two as one in the same from that aspect. Solenoids are typically heavier duty.

Something to chew on, 400 watts at 12 volts draws 33.3 amps, plus a little for inefficiencies in the electronics. The actual amount depends on what you have plugged into it.

 

[blueblur1984]

You will still need the switch to power the relay. The relay is a switch itself that is triggered off 12 volts. If you used the switch to trigger the relay, you will have the same functionality you have now, but with the capacity of the relay. The reason for using the relay is you can get one with a higher current rating than the switch.

The 'accessory' in this pic would be your fuse block. The 'switch' is your current rocker switch.
http://www.ripper1.com/tech/wiring/negative_switch.gif

The solenoid the guy is pushing would wire in the same as the relay. Think of the two as one in the same from that aspect. Solenoids are typically heavier duty.

Something to chew on, 400 watts at 12 volts draws 33.3 amps, plus a little for inefficiencies in the electronics. The actual amount depends on what you have plugged into it.

So I bought a 30 amp relay and think I messed up somewhere along the way installing it. Whenever the power turns on I hear the relay engage and regardless of the position of the switch the system is powered up. Here is the relay I used:

Dorman® Conduct-Tite!® 84601 - Relay | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Here's the line up according to the diagram the guys over there were nice enough to draw up for me:

Pin 86 goes to the battery

Pin 87 goes to the switch (the switch only hooks up to the relay and a ground per their advice)

Pin 84 goes to my fuse box

Pin 85 (the last remaining pin...I'm guessing it's 85) goes to it's own ground.

So where is my mistake? Hopefully I didn't blow the switch?

 

[cj80cruiser]

Its hooked up wrong


30 goes to battery
87 goes to your fuse box
86 should be small fused wire from battery
85 should be ran to switch and then ground the switch.

From what I understand 85 and 86 can be swapped around.
Is that relay rated high enough? What kind of amps are you pulling? The relay is the limiting factor at 30 amps vs. Your 125amp fuse.

I'm just learning about this stuff so there may be a ton more to think about.

 

[blueblur1984]

Its hooked up wrong


30 goes to battery
87 goes to your fuse box
86 should be small fused wire from battery
85 should be ran to switch and then ground the switch.

From what I understand 85 and 86 can be swapped around.
Is that relay rated high enough? What kind of amps are you pulling? The relay is the limiting factor at 30 amps vs. Your 125amp fuse.

I'm just learning about this stuff so there may be a ton more to think about.

This seems closer but it's still not working. I'm guessing by "30 goes to battery" you mean ground? Or are there two wires going to the battery? The switch lights like it's supposed to but there doesn't seem to be any juice running to my power inverter. Before it was constantly live but the power inverter's fault switch was flipped.

Honestly I think 30 amps is plenty for what I use it for, but 50 would probably be better. That's just the biggest one they had available. Down the road when I'm running a little more juice to power more accessories I plan on bumping up to a solenoid...just where to squeeze that massive bugger under the hood....

 

[cj80cruiser]

This seems closer but it's still not working. I'm guessing by "30 goes to battery" you mean ground? Or are there two wires going to the battery? The switch lights like it's supposed to but there doesn't seem to be any juice running to my power inverter. Before it was constantly live but the power inverter's fault switch was flipped.

Honestly I think 30 amps is plenty for what I use it for, but 50 would probably be better. That's just the biggest one they had available. Down the road when I'm running a little more juice to power more accessories I plan on bumping up to a solenoid...just where to squeeze that massive bugger under the hood....

30amp is probably big enough for what you have but the 125amp fuse isn't the weak link. I'm just saying the 125 amp fuse is not helping you. Its my understanding that you want the fuse to be smaller than the rating of your components.

The 30 post runs straight to battery + in which I would probably run a fuse.
The 87 post should run to your fuse box +

You use the 85 and 86 post for your low power from your switch and ground. That's how it keeps your switch from being overloaded. Basically you are running just enough current to magnetise the relay. This pulls a small lever down that will allow power to flow from your 30 to your 87 post which will then power your fuse box.

You will need a ground for your 86 and a small power source for the 85 post. You can achieve this in 2 ways.

1). Run power from your battery to your switch and then from your switch to the 85. Ground your 86.

Or

2). Run power from your battery to your 85. Then ground from your switch to the 86. You must ground your switch as well.

Watch this YouTube

I'm just learning so I'm having a hard time explaining everything I'm trying to say. Hope it gets you going in the right direction though.

 

[cj80cruiser]

What really needs to happen is you need to rearrange your components.

 

[cj80cruiser]

This will keep you from overloading that relay.

1). Run your battery power to your 125 amp fuse. (Might want to consider a smaller fuse but that's besides the point right now)
2). Run your power from the 125 amp fuse to your blue sea fuse box. Sound familar? Just the way you had it before....I know
3). This is where your relay will come in. All you should need is a 2.5 amp fused wire from your bluesea box to your switch. Then from your switch to the 85 pin on your relay.
4). Ground your 86 pin.
5). Run power from your blue sea box with appropriate size fuse to your 30 pin on relay.
6). Then connect your inverter to the 87 relay pin.


You will have constant power to your fuse box but your inverter wont get juice until you flip the switch.

 

[cj80cruiser]

This video shows the 85 as the ground and 86 positive but I don't think it matters as long ss one is positive with no internal diode involved.

YouTube

 

[blueblur1984]

After perseferating over how the heck the relay was supposed to go in, I asked myself "why the heck to I even need this?" Really, I don't think I do. The fuse box is rated for over 100amps so I just dropped the size of the ANL fuse, and the fuse block protects my accessories. Since I had multiple pieces of wire anyhow I installed a quick disconnect, but if anybody else out there is trying this I would skip the complicated stuff an just make sure your accessories are off when you're done with them.

Good luck everybody and happy wheeling! I'll post again if I change the set up.

 

[robb1887]

So I know this is an OLD thread but I came across it searching for Accessory fuse panel locations ideas.

And after reading thought I would clear up some of the "complicated stuff" that is really a safety concern.

From my understanding the switch was to be used as a master switch to kill the power to the fuse panel, if this is correct the below diagram should be how its wired to be the safest for all your components and the protect the truck from a electrical short and potential fire risk, while providing the maximum potential of the system.



The relay will have to be pretty hefty, and the switch light should work if wired this way. If anyone else using this has a switch with no light, or a separate light circuit in their switch, it is safer to put it on the ground side of the relay.

If you 100% didn't want to tap into any OEM wiring you could also run the 12ga Pin (2) switch wire to the battery terminal as well with a small inline fuse (5A) close to the battery terminal.

 

[IBallEngineer]

So I know this is an OLD thread but I came across it searching for Accessory fuse panel locations ideas.

And after reading thought I would clear up some of the "complicated stuff" that is really a safety concern.

From my understanding the switch was to be used as a master switch to kill the power to the fuse panel, if this is correct the below diagram should be how its wired to be the safest for all your components and the protect the truck from a electrical short and potential fire risk, while providing the maximum potential of the system.



The relay will have to be pretty hefty, and the switch light should work if wired this way. If anyone else using this has a switch with no light, or a separate light circuit in their switch, it is safer to put it on the ground side of the relay.

If you 100% didn't want to tap into any OEM wiring you could also run the 12ga Pin (2) switch wire to the battery terminal as well with a small inline fuse (5A) close to the battery terminal.

Wow, not even sure where to begin. Here is what I see. First let me admit I did not read the entire thread, so I'm not sure why they want the ability to "turn off" the fuse block. The switch does NOT protect anything, so safety is not an issue. In actuality the switch is only useful if you want to shut down multiple circuits all at once, otherwise it's pointless.

But let's look at what you have here. In the diagram.

12G wires are not necessary to operate the relay, as you said a 5A fuse could handle it, 20 or 22 G could do it easily.

The way the diagram is drawn, the fuse block would be powered with the switch in the "off" position, and turned off when the switch was activated. So the light on the switch(if it is indeed a lighted switch) would be "ON" when the fuse block was turned off.

You are correct that the "relay" would need to be hefty. In actuality it would have to be a continuous duty solenoid of some type. Lot's of them out there.

The reality is the 100A ANL fuse close to the battery would provide all the safety necessary.

:snacker:

 

[robb1887]

You're right the relay pin is backwards. I did mess up there. Should read 87 not 87a.

Melting switches and shorting them due to pulling too much current was my concern. But at that point you should pop the 100A fuse or whatever you're running as well.

20-22 ga would work for the switch wiring, I have a lot of 12ga on my shelf so whatever you got I guess.