Addicted Offroad's new 5th gen 4runner bumper!

[ADK Explorer]

Its a jester. Lol

So it is.

Nice bumper by the way.

lol

 

[Jono.ful]

Yea, my DRLs are not automatic. They are controlled via the headlight switch. I assumed they were all like that.

not here in Canada, vehicles newer than '95 IIRC are required to have drls activated automatically. mine come on as soon as you deactivate the parking brake, and are on until the headlights are switched on (hence my comment about turning them off in techstream)

 

[AddictedOffroad]

not here in Canada, vehicles newer than '95 IIRC are required to have drls activated automatically. mine come on as soon as you deactivate the parking brake, and are on until the headlights are switched on (hence my comment about turning them off in techstream)

Keep inmind that a simple 12v 2" non LED bulb could replace these without any issues. That way you could run them without a resistor and not have a hyper-blink

 

[wfo9]

Keep inmind that a simple 12v 2" non LED bulb could replace these without any issues. That way you could run them without a resistor and not have a hyper-blink

Yep, I was thinking about trying these... There are $1.99 LOL

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/MC53AB.html

 

[AddictedOffroad]

Yep, I was thinking about trying these... There are $1.99 LOL



https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/MC53AB.html

There ya go.

 

[Jono.ful]

c'mon shipping notification!

ray:

 

[AddictedOffroad]

c'mon shipping notification!



ray:

Tomorrow promise

 

[MisplacedTexan]

Went to put on the Smittybilt winch today and the roller fairlead that came with the winch won't bolt up to the front where the cut outs are at.

The cross-bar that has the light tabs on it blocks the fairlead from moving up enough to line up, and turns out the bolts that ship with the smitty winch are too large for the holes drilled. Going to pick up a Hawse style anyways. Should fix the problem, and if it's still too tall I can cut it down and make it work.

Outside of that the winch install is easy with the bumper still on. Had to cut away and the piece of metal that hold the bumper across the bottom of the grill to allow for the solenoid box to fit. If you felt like moving the solenoid box to a remote location with longer cables it wouldn't be a problem at all.

 

[wfo9]

[MENTION=17736]AddictedOffroad[/MENTION] Went to put on the Smittybilt winch today and the roller fairlead that came with the winch won't bolt up to the front where the cut outs are at.

The cross-bar that has the light tabs on it blocks the fairlead from moving up enough to line up, and turns out the bolts that ship with the smitty winch are too large for the holes drilled. Going to pick up a Hawse style anyways. Should fix the problem, and if it's still too tall I can cut it down and make it work.

Outside of that the winch install is easy with the bumper still on. Had to cut away and the piece of metal that hold the bumper across the bottom of the grill to allow for the solenoid box to fit. If you felt like moving the solenoid box to a remote location with longer cables it wouldn't be a problem at all.

Its a preference thing... but going from steel cable to synthetic myself.. I'll never go back to steel. And you really need a hawse aluminum fairlead for synthetic line. So much easier to work with...

 

[MisplacedTexan]

Its a preference thing... but going from steel cable to synthetic myself.. I'll never go back to steel. And you really need a hawse aluminum fairlead for synthetic line. So much easier to work with...

Yea, I would of just used the roller and steel line as a stop-gap till I feel like picking up some synthetic line, but the roller fairlead wouldn't even bolt up. Had to look around a few shops to find a hawse style that I still had to bolt "up-side down". The 'Warn' logo's on the bottom is all....not a big issue at all. And I'll just replace it with a new one when I go over to synthetic line....whenever that happens.

But picture for reasons.....

 

[ManhstuhT4R]

Got a chance to clean up the runner and forgot to post in here. Here is the factor55 fairlead and prolink installed with some red shackles. Loving the look so far and can't wait to test it out in the winter. Will have some action shots after this the wheeling trip this weekend.

 

[Seattle206]

[MENTION=115024]ManhstuhT4R[/MENTION], mos def the meanest looking 5th gen on this forum.


I did get my Addicted bumper today.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

Got a chance to clean up the runner and forgot to post in here. Here is the factor55 fairlead and prolink installed with some red shackles. Loving the look so far and can't wait to test it out in the winter. Will have some action shots after this the wheeling trip this weekend.

Where we goin this weekend??

 

[Jono.ful]

Plan to pull the trigger by the end of the week on this! those who have them mounted up already/ [MENTION=17736]AddictedOffroad[/MENTION] would a set of Lightforce 240's fit the light bar mounting location?

I would guess that they would. Depends mainly on the bracket on the lights. Also might block access to the spool lever on your winch depending on its configuration. There seems to be plenty of room though.

Light itself is 9.5". Housing is wider from the specs I see. So, they are likely wider than 10".

This was the spec I saw when I looked them up (the housing is very thin). So I'm guessing they would work.

hey look! they fit!

no clearance issues with my winch either, though I did have to bend the brackets for the hard line a bit to make everything fit

 

[NuclearN8]

Looks good but I'll be surprised if those two lights don't touch due to vibration and beat each other up. If they're a single pedestal base mount its bound to happen...

 

[Jono.ful]

Looks good but I'll be surprised if those two lights don't touch due to vibration and beat each other up. If they're a single pedestal base mount its bound to happen...

Possibly, the mount is solid when all the hardware is appropriately tightened. If it becomes an issue I can just aim them slightly outbound, thereby creating a larger gap

 

[SecretSquirrel]

Hey Scotty. What's your current turnaround on these? Going to change direction from what I purchased and go this route...
[MENTION=17736]AddictedOffroad[/MENTION]

Thanks
SS

 

[AddictedOffroad]

Hey Scotty. What's your current turnaround on these? Going to change direction from what I purchased and go this route...


[MENTION=17736]AddictedOffroad[/MENTION]



Thanks

SS

I have one 2010-2013 on the floor ready to ship. 2-3 weeks on 14+ models.

 

[SecretSquirrel]

I have one 2010-2013 on the floor ready to ship. 2-3 weeks on 14+ models.

Thanks man. I'll give a ring once I get my still-boxed current one sold

 

[Jono.ful]

No sure. I would say they are not as bright overall...

The stock ones were regular bulbs and put out a lot of light... These are LEDs and the light is way more focused with less lumens

One big downside with LEDs as blinkers is you have the choice of using DRLs or having a normal blink on the turn signals. The blinker circuit will fast blink unless it sees enough load. To simulate the load of a regular bulb.. you can wire in a resistor in parallel. But the resistor will burn out if it has to run all the time as the DRLs. I can't think of another easy solution.

Just used the stock wires.... Plenty of power for the LED fogs/ditch. No issues.

As far as the turn signals go.... The LED load equalizer link you posted above is a resistor. It is what I have. It works fine for the turn signals, but gets extremely hot when running as DRL. I'm positive it will burn out quickly if run as DRL for extended times.

I ended up installing the 100w resistors, solved the hyper blink. I ran the truck for 10 min or so with the drls on, the resistors were hot for sure, but I was able to touch them without burning myself. I have to believe that they were up to peak temp after 10 min, and considering I mounted them in the air way in front of the rad (lower headlight support), I have to believe they shouldn't get any hotter especially when I'm driving.