Adjustable Sway Links (?)

Devbot

Devbot

New member
Hey all,
Like many of you I got some of MStudt's extended/adjustable sway bar end links, which I recently installed this weekend. However, I'm not exactly where to set these things - I took a gamble on the rear ones and it seems fine from what I can tell, but the front has a popping I just can't get rid of. When taking a turn, that side of the vehicle will pop respectively (so on a left turn, the drivers side will pop as the body weight rolls to the right, etc). Not a small pop either - loud and strong. Initially i thought the bolts were too tight, and the ones at the heim joints were visibly too snug so I loosened them a bit and now the pop isn't as sensitive, but still there the second you stop driving like a grandma. Currently I have the front links extended out a bit, but thought about taking them down as short as they can go and starting from there. (I have a Tundra TRD lift up front)
Any thoughts on how to properly set and adjust these links as needed?
 
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I sent him a message a couple days ago but have yet to hear back and was curious if others could help. You'd think, for $200+, they'd come with SOME instructions but I guess not. So far, not very pleased with this drunk purchase tbh, but when they're cheaper and much heavier than an OEM set from McGeorge I guess it's not too bad, especially being rebuildable
Edit: I should clarify if i turn hard enough I actually do get a pop in the back as well, and the one of the pops up front feels almost directly under the driver seat, leading me to believe it's the links. Can't replicate it by rocking the vehicle tho
 
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Devbot said:
So far, not very pleased with this drunk purchase tbh,
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LOL'd at drunk purchase :)

I ran these and had the popping in the front as well. I couldnt do anything to make it stop. Eventually just decided to remove my entire front swaybar, and endlinks and test drive it. No more popping. Sway bar has been off of the front for 4 months now, and ill never put it back on. Drives amazing.

The rears are silent for me. You've got to get those really tight.
The only issue in the rear is that they're hitting my girthy boi Rokeman LCAs when offroading, which is OK by me
 
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I've done the same. Had popping in the front, pulled the front off, been driving with it off for at least 10 months now. Would really love if there's some way I could make my 200$ purchase usable. Kinda do regret getting these.
 
I thought about taking it off but I'm not sure about the body roll. I haven't heard anybody complain about popping with OEM links, so maybe these are too stiff and beefy?
Knowing how simple they are, I could make a lighter version at work and see if they fix the problem, if that's later determined to be the issue.
 
I'm running the same Endlinks without any problems.

Have you adjusted them so that the Swaybar is parallel to the ground?

Are the jam nuts tight?
 
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I had similar issues... popping in the front. They worked well initially but the popping in the front became unbearable so I reverted back to 2nd gen 4runner end links. I am wondering if I didn't adjust the height properly. I should have probably contacted MStudt. I like these end links and once I have some free time I would probably try to put them back.
 
Herculean T4R said:
I had similar issues... popping in the front. They worked well initially.. I am wondering if I didn't adjust the height properly...
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They worked well initially they should again, unless damaged, Rod ends known for rotating.
It's my understanding parts need to be in correct sequnce/position, pic in post shows it search it.
From factory bar is parallel with frame rails at ride height. As you lift keep it parallel with frame, same with Panhard designed level keep it level.
 
TRD 4RNR said:
I'm running the same Endlinks without any problems.

Have you adjusted them so that the Swaybar is parallel to the ground?

Are the jam nuts tight?
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Yes and yes. I'm wondering if maybe my bushing arent tight enough? How tight/squished should they be?
 
Devbot said:
I thought about taking it off but I'm not sure about the body roll.
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As easy as it is to remove the front links, I say take them off and go for a test drive. I did this and I'm very glad I did. The IFS really takes bumps in the road better with it off, and rides smoother. Less vibration in the steering wheel, and the suspension is actually able to move independently.

Now, as far as body roll, it's going to be a personal preference, and it'll depend on your front spring rate.

I hardly noticed roll at all. Yes, it's there, but it's not like driving a tractor or something. In a way its more predictable.
 
96RedRunner said:
I've torqued them to spec and beyond, beyond has worked better.
With whatever it takes to grab them I tighten till they won't turn, have yet to break one they stay in place.
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Duly noted, will tighten them down before I leave work

WeakSauz said:
As easy as it is to remove the front links, I say take them off and go for a test drive. I did this and I'm very glad I did. The IFS really takes bumps in the road better with it off, and rides smoother. Less vibration in the steering wheel, and the suspension is actually able to move independently.

Now, as far as body roll, it's going to be a personal preference, and it'll depend on your front spring rate.

I hardly noticed roll at all. Yes, it's there, but it's not like driving a tractor or something. In a way its more predictable.
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I might give it a try one of these days. Currently I rub a little bit on my front fenders with a little recoil, so I might wait until I put my bumper on or else I'll really hit them
 
Tightened them up, not sure if it really made a difference. Currently my fender rubs my tire ever so slightly when bouncing/dipping hard through a turn, so it can be tricky to tell. I definitely still had some very strong, hearty pops driving home though, just not sure it they were any better than before.
Here are pics of the length they're set at and how parallel the bar is to the road. Or should it be tilted to match the upsweep in the frame, is that what you guys are saying? Perfectly flat ground here
Update: maybe these pics work?
 

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What brackets are holding the inner part of the Swaybar to the 4Runner? Can you post a pic of those? I had some crazy sounds with the Energy Suspension brackets and when I switched them out for (Dorman 928-361) and got them good and tight that quieted things down a lot.
 
TRD 4RNR said:
What brackets are holding the inner part of the Swaybar to the 4Runner? Can you post a pic of those? I had some crazy sounds with the Energy Suspension brackets and when I switched them out for (Dorman 928-361) and got them good and tight that quieted things down a lot.
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They're just OEM. People actually replace the goddamn brackets for aftermarket parts?? That's just silly
 
Bad Luck said:
Not sure about the bracket itself but people change out the sway bar bushings where the sway bar attaches to the frame.
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Oh my bad, my mind was still on the end links. That makes loads more sense. I was actually looking at those bushings possibly being egged out because of some shit I watched on motortrend a couple years back. Maybe I'll give them a shot if they're cheap enough.
I'm about to do an oil change in an hour or so, so I'll snag a picture if you'd like one. The bushings looked fine to me, but you never know. Might even disconnect it and go for a drive around the block, I got jack shit to do today anyways lol
 
:keyboard: Bumping, still looking for experiences
I went to re-adjust the links and found a happy medium where they like to sit freely, and feels like it's dead center as shortening/lengthening the links immediately begins to feel tight both directions. It seemed like the answer, but now my car pops more than EVER before - hard and loud on every little turn, shift or bump. I'm determined to make these things work as advertised.
 
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