ToolmanJohn
New member
Well, I had to replace a rear rotor (drivers side) because of a chirping when applying the brake from higher speeds. It was warped just enough to cause the caliper to oscillate, which is what was causing the chrping noise. Repeated greasing of the caliper slide bolts would cause the noise to go away for a few months but it would always return.
So, for $70 I bought a rear rotor, and last night was trying to remove it, but the parking brakes were holding the damn rotor to tightly, and I could not remove it.
After searching the site and the web I decided to remove the center consloe to access the parking brake cable adjustment. Suprisingly !!, it's not hard to take the entire console off. Just six bolts, and disconnection of the wires for the console electrical (inverter, seat heaters, DAC, and console lighting).
SO, using two 12mm wrenches, I released all tension from the parking brake cables. GUESS WHAT!?!?! It doesn't do a THING for releasing the parking brake shoes!!
So, I used a flashlight and a lot of patience, and discovered something VERY important.
The rotor has 12 large holes drilled in it. Six of the line up witht the studs, but the other six appeared to do nothing, EXCEPT that there was a through hole behind the rotor at two locations!!
By carefully looking through the hole with a small flashlight, and slowly turning the rotor (rear end off ground, tranny in neutral), I finally caught sight of an adjustment wheel at the bottom of the wheel assembly, around the 5:50 position (looking at a clockface).
I couldn't get a picture through the hole, and unfortunately, I didn't have the foresight to have the camera with me when I did get the old rotor off.
I would have taken a good picture of the assembly, but trust me you can see the little toothed wheel adjustment bolt through the hole, and using a small screwdriver, turn the wheel to increase or decrease the distance of the brake shoe from the internal drum. I don't remember which way, I just turned until the rotor came of very easily. And turned the other way after the rotor was back on to tighten, then backed off a few teeth so the rotor turns easily again before mounting the wheel.
I readjusted the cable so the parking brake pedal had good firmness and held the truck extemely well. Reinstalling the consloe is easy. Reconnect the wires, slide the console down and forward, six bolts back in. Then snap everything else back on the console, no other screws or bolts. Adjusting the brake cable with the console on would be impossible, there simply is NO rooom to turn a wrench even though you can see the cable adjustment nuts.
The tools I needed. What a PITA. Torque for lugs is 83ft/lbs.
So, for $70 I bought a rear rotor, and last night was trying to remove it, but the parking brakes were holding the damn rotor to tightly, and I could not remove it.
After searching the site and the web I decided to remove the center consloe to access the parking brake cable adjustment. Suprisingly !!, it's not hard to take the entire console off. Just six bolts, and disconnection of the wires for the console electrical (inverter, seat heaters, DAC, and console lighting).
SO, using two 12mm wrenches, I released all tension from the parking brake cables. GUESS WHAT!?!?! It doesn't do a THING for releasing the parking brake shoes!!
So, I used a flashlight and a lot of patience, and discovered something VERY important.
The rotor has 12 large holes drilled in it. Six of the line up witht the studs, but the other six appeared to do nothing, EXCEPT that there was a through hole behind the rotor at two locations!!
By carefully looking through the hole with a small flashlight, and slowly turning the rotor (rear end off ground, tranny in neutral), I finally caught sight of an adjustment wheel at the bottom of the wheel assembly, around the 5:50 position (looking at a clockface).
I couldn't get a picture through the hole, and unfortunately, I didn't have the foresight to have the camera with me when I did get the old rotor off.
I would have taken a good picture of the assembly, but trust me you can see the little toothed wheel adjustment bolt through the hole, and using a small screwdriver, turn the wheel to increase or decrease the distance of the brake shoe from the internal drum. I don't remember which way, I just turned until the rotor came of very easily. And turned the other way after the rotor was back on to tighten, then backed off a few teeth so the rotor turns easily again before mounting the wheel.
I readjusted the cable so the parking brake pedal had good firmness and held the truck extemely well. Reinstalling the consloe is easy. Reconnect the wires, slide the console down and forward, six bolts back in. Then snap everything else back on the console, no other screws or bolts. Adjusting the brake cable with the console on would be impossible, there simply is NO rooom to turn a wrench even though you can see the cable adjustment nuts.
The tools I needed. What a PITA. Torque for lugs is 83ft/lbs.
Last edited:
.
