Advice needed (console, rear cargo wall, etc.)

[jkeith.w]

So I bought our 4runner almost 10 years ago and my wife has been using it daily, until 4-5 months ago when she bought herself a 1st. gen.

Now I have the 96 to myself, so I'm going about fixing all the things ($).

I pulled a console and rear cargo sides from an '01 at a junkyard today, only to realize that the cupholder console does not have rear heat, whereas my truck does.

So what are my options here?

1. Swap consoles for one with rear heat
2. Remove the rear heater stuff from the truck

Pros/cons of rear heat deletion? Third option?



Similarly, I grabbed the rear side panels to take advantage of the larger smugglers box and the accessory port; but now am concerned that my '96 may not have the front mount tabs under the retractable cargo cover mounts - is there a thread on this?

Of course, I didn't realize the color change between '96 and '01 until I loaded the panels in the back of my truck.. :/ (I have the old dark oak panels, the '01 has the lighter beige bits)

Any wisdom on either of these would be appreciated; rear axle housing year differences questions coming up next...

 

[jkeith.w]

And rear end: I'm chasing a vibration between 60-80mph (I've already replaced the rear u-joint, with no effect) and determined that the right rear wheel bearing was bad.

During the repair I discovered that the axle had been replaced at some point with a later model axle due to some previous collision damage, requiring different parts than would have been used on the '96. I can't recall whether it was a seal or bearing difference. The bearing repair made quite a improvement in the vibration, but did not resolve it.

I bring this up because I'm going to replace the third member to eliminate it as a possible source of the vibration, and am going to install an e-locker at that time, requiring axle housing work. To keep from being unable to use the truck, I'm going to get a spare axle to modify, and if there are improvements to the later trucks in this area, I'd like to know before buying an axle housing!

 

[jkeith.w]

OK, (since I'm talking to myself here, lol) I'm leaning toward just deleting the rear heat - I'll hang onto it in case I regret that decision - but I'd like some input from whomever has experience with this:

once deleted will I essentially have a non-rear heat 4runner, or are there different contours to the floor panels between the non-rear heat and with-rear heat models?

can I use non-rear heat carpet (replacing that also) once I complete the deletion?

what is the factory part in the engine bay for properly deleting the heat? (there has to be a manifold somewhere up there to send coolant to the back, correct?)

 

[Cree]

I don't know the answer to any of your questions, but at least it's not a one man convo any more. Welcome to the board.

 

[amatuerfisher]

While I don't have rear heat in my 96, I do have rear HVAC in my Challenger. That system is actually just a continuation of the front HVAC system of ducts.

Hope that helps!

 

[JBurt]

Before you throw note money at the rear axle, if you have 4wd, pull the rear driveshaft (not axle) and drive around in front wheel drive. That will tell you if it's driveshaft related.

You could probably sell your non heat console and buy a rear heat console, or swap out straight across. Check the classifieds section.

 

[jkeith.w]

thanks guys!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Lots of questions!

Removing the rear heat is more complicated than you might think. The hoses continue through the heater core in the dash to the rear. If you just hack off the hoses and plug them you run the risk of a leak (has happened) and you'll never know it's leaking until your vehicle overheats. The contour of the floor is different too because there's a fan under the passenger's side seat.

All this just to fit a center console. Also, you're going to have to cut the e-brake handle bracket and re-weld it at an angle or that won't fit either. A lot of work just to get a center console to fit! If it were me, I'd just return it for credit and wait for another one from a 96-98 with rear heat.

About the vibrations: I'd rotate the tires before buying a new axle just to make sure it's not a specific wheel/tire that's causing the vibration. Oh and don't take out the AXLE and drive around, take out the driveshaft. Make sure you mark it and put it back in the same spot. Kind of hard to drive without a rear axle lol!

 

[JBurt]

Oh CRAP! Yes, don't pull your axle, pull your driveshaft. That probably some of the worst advice I've ever given.

 

[Red Monkey]

Don't know about a 96 but on the 90 I had it was EZ to do away with the rear heat. Just cut the two lines under the hood going to the rear heater then plug them. I don't know your mechanical ability but you should be able to modify your rear axle for a e-locker in one weekend. I've done three and the tricky part is drilling the extra holes for the extra studs. I used a SPDT switch to control the lock-unlock of the diff.

 

[jkeith.w]

Before you throw note money at the rear axle, if you have 4wd, pull the rear driveshaft (not axle) and drive around in front wheel drive. That will tell you if it's axle related.

You want me to drive 60-80mph on the front axle?!? :fear:

(vibration occurs between those speeds)

 

[jkeith.w]

Removing the rear heat is more complicated than you might think. The hoses continue through the heater core in the dash to the rear.

Thanks for the reply! I had the heater core out a couple of years ago (thought it was clogged, keeping the heat from working - but in my '96 the temp slider cable had simply come unclipped and the flap wasn't opening - smh) - and I don't recall additional lines on the core?

The contour of the floor is different too because there's a fan under the passenger's side seat.

I pulled the carpet out of the 4runner that donated the console today - the floor under the passenger seat had a ridiculously deep depression in it - certainly for the rear heat assembly, no? - I'm thinking the floorpans are the same, save from some holes for the coolant lines to penetrate, possibly?

Also, you're going to have to cut the e-brake handle bracket and re-weld it at an angle or that won't fit either.

I grabbed the ebrake assembly and mounting stuff at the same time, so I'm set for install (other than the rear heat conundrum)

About the vibrations: I'd rotate the tires before buying a new axle just to make sure it's not a specific wheel/tire that's causing the vibration.

Thanks for bringing this up - I'm inclined to agree; I don't have the lug-centric adapter for my Hunter balancer (we don't do toyotas at our shop) so my wheels may very well all be "perfectly" mis-balanced.
However, I've wanted a locker for this truck (and I picked up both a 4.10 e-locker third and a complete V6 axle assembly from a '97 today, so...)

 

[jkeith.w]

You could probably sell your non heat console and buy a rear heat console, or swap out straight across. Check the classifieds section.

Thanks - I listed the console for a swap out in the classifieds, thanks for the tip!

 

[JBurt]

You want me to drive 60-80mph on the front axle?!? :fear:

(vibration occurs between those speeds)

Yeah that was a bad post. You can safely completely remove the rear driveshaft and drive 60-80 in 4wd high (now rendered 2wd). I've done it and it handled just fine for diagnostic purposes.

 

[jkeith.w]

Yeah that was a bad post. You can safely completely remove the rear driveshaft and drive 60-80 in 4wd high (now rendered 2wd). I've done it and it handled just fine for diagnostic purposes.

whaa? really? I learned something today!

(still shocked this is possible - my other truck [M715] would be a molten piece of metal after that)

 

[Cree]

whaa? really? I learned something today!

(still shocked this is possible - my other truck [M715] would be a molten piece of metal after that)

A 715 won't go 80 down hill with a tailwind with a rocket strapped in the back over the side of a cliff, so it's a learning curve from here out my friend.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the reply! I had the heater core out a couple of years ago (thought it was clogged, keeping the heat from working - but in my '96 the temp slider cable had simply come unclipped and the flap wasn't opening - smh) - and I don't recall additional lines on the core?


I pulled the carpet out of the 4runner that donated the console today - the floor under the passenger seat had a ridiculously deep depression in it - certainly for the rear heat assembly, no? - I'm thinking the floorpans are the same, save from some holes for the coolant lines to penetrate, possibly?


I grabbed the ebrake assembly and mounting stuff at the same time, so I'm set for install (other than the rear heat conundrum)


Thanks for bringing this up - I'm inclined to agree; I don't have the lug-centric adapter for my Hunter balancer (we don't do toyotas at our shop) so my wheels may very well all be "perfectly" mis-balanced.
However, I've wanted a locker for this truck (and I picked up both a 4.10 e-locker third and a complete V6 axle assembly from a '97 today, so...)

Looks like you've done your homework! Sound like it's more than just the rear heater you want to swap and have a plan for it. I just didn't want you jumping in and realizing how much work it would be.

 

[jkeith.w]

Well thanks!

Following up on the rear heat info; it looks like deletion is fairly simple - an oblong plug in the floor pan, and a couple of hoses in the engine compartment, I'm thinking (haven't checked the OEM parts yet, but will.)

Going back and forth between swapping the console and just deleting the rear heat at the moment...

 

[jkeith.w]

So another forum member has offered to swap consoles with me, thanks mattt4r!

For what it's worth, it looks like deletion would be fairly simple, if someone decided to go that route. Here are some photos I swiped from other threads showing the components and carpet changes (I'm not sure I'm going to be able to get my non-heat replacement carpet to work, though):

 

[jkeith.w]

I grabbed the rear side panels to take advantage of the larger smugglers box and the accessory port; but now am concerned that my '96 may not have the front mount tabs under the retractable cargo cover mounts

For future reference; I checked out another truck (a '97) and now am almost positive that the front retractor mounts simply bolt to the inner steel body wall, so retrofitting a cover won't be an issue. I'll confirm this after I do mine.