Advice on 1st gen
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KidVermicious
New member
Hey, I was going to work on a thread for this. Thanks for the reminder. 
On the pavement, the manual is indisputably better. The chain drive in the automatics sucks so much power you'll think you're driving a slug. Offroad, the automatic is undeniably easier to operate, but an aftermarket set of 4.7 transfer case gears makes the manual nearly as smooth and adds much more capability. Go with the stick shift and you won't regret it.
Engine choice is a little tougher. The 22RE is 116 horsepower of raging fury, but it's 116 horsepower of reliable raging fury, and can pull down 25 mpg in the right conditions. The 3VZE is comparatively much more powerful at 150 horsepower, but is vulnerable to cooked headgaskets and doesn't get nearly the same gas mileage. Both motors are known to regularly run 200,000+ miles without serious trouble, so it's hard to go wrong with either.
On the pavement, the manual is indisputably better. The chain drive in the automatics sucks so much power you'll think you're driving a slug. Offroad, the automatic is undeniably easier to operate, but an aftermarket set of 4.7 transfer case gears makes the manual nearly as smooth and adds much more capability. Go with the stick shift and you won't regret it.
Engine choice is a little tougher. The 22RE is 116 horsepower of raging fury, but it's 116 horsepower of reliable raging fury, and can pull down 25 mpg in the right conditions. The 3VZE is comparatively much more powerful at 150 horsepower, but is vulnerable to cooked headgaskets and doesn't get nearly the same gas mileage. Both motors are known to regularly run 200,000+ miles without serious trouble, so it's hard to go wrong with either.
RiFF RaFF
New member
Hey, I was going to work on a thread for this. Thanks for the reminder.
On the pavement, the manual is indisputably better. The chain drive in the automatics sucks so much power you'll think you're driving a slug. Offroad, the automatic is undeniably easier to operate, but an aftermarket set of 4.7 transfer case gears makes the manual nearly as smooth and adds much more capability. Go with the stick shift and you won't regret it.
Engine choice is a little tougher. The 22RE is 116 horsepower of raging fury, but it's 116 horsepower of reliable raging fury, and can pull down 25 mpg in the right conditions. The 3VZE is comparatively much more powerful at 150 horsepower, but is vulnerable to cooked headgaskets and doesn't get nearly the same gas mileage. Both motors are known to regularly run 200,000+ miles without serious trouble, so it's hard to go wrong with either.
My advice is to find one that is in excellent shape. No (or little) body rust. Don't forget to check the frame for rust also.
Both drive trains have their pluses and negative. The main thing is - what condition is the body/frame in. You can always find either the 4 or 6 engine to swap out.
I don't have a 1st gen (2 Gen here), but so far my 3VZE has been rock solid reliable - both on and off road. I trust it so much we are leaving soon from WV to Moab Utah.
Good luck on your search.
:driving:
89FourRunner
New member
My 3VZE has 312,000 miles on it. I cannot take credit for them however, but the last owner made head gaskets part of his regular maintenance plan and it has worked out in the long run. Doesn't burn a drop of oil, and no coolant goes missing to this day.
Thanks for your insight guys. I am looking at 89 4runner right now that's a v6 and is stick. He said that the engine has never been rebuilt and it has 213,000 miles. Does this mean I will most likely have engine trouble soon if I get it? The body looks great on pictures I'm going to look at it later today. What are key points to look for rust on it?
The problem with that is I live in California and emissions are so strick here that I don't think I can swap another motor in this and still keep it street legal.
fourwd1
Moderator
Yeah, 213K is a lot of miles for any engine, and it would be reasonable to expect problems of some sort in the future.
Depending on where you are frame rust is the biggest problem, and it isn't always noticeable until it's really bad.
fourwd1
Moderator
The problem with that is I live in California and emissions are so strick here that I don't think I can swap another motor in this and still keep it street legal.
You can certainly swap another (rebuilt) 3.0 in.
If I do buy it should I just replace the head gasket on it just in case or more like as needed.
Pyroboy
New member
Check:
-frame rails just in front of the rear wheels, where it turns up
-between the fuel tank and rear spring hanger on the right side
-the cross tube above the rear axle
-the back of the frame, above where the spare tire lives.
Tap at it with a sharp hammer if the owner will let you.
-frame rails just in front of the rear wheels, where it turns up
-between the fuel tank and rear spring hanger on the right side
-the cross tube above the rear axle
-the back of the frame, above where the spare tire lives.
Tap at it with a sharp hammer if the owner will let you.
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ToyoTech
New member
i would go as need. the key would be to make sure your cooling system is working 100%. correct toyota red/pink coolant. good clean grounds. water pump working. radiator isnt leaking. radiator cap is working. fan clutch working. next would be making sure engine is running good. timing set correctly and a tune up.
i have a 88 v6 auto with 235xxx miles and on original HG but it helps that my parents was the original owner.
with my auto 4runner i still fly up 5-7% grade hills at 55-65mphs compared to my buddies with trucks- 22re and 5speed trying to maintain 40-50mph lol
Well after looking and test driving the 4runner I decided not to buy it. There were many interior parts missing, the passenger window wasn't working as well as the lift gate window. It had an exhaust leak and the engine was sputtering so much that it was struggling to pick up speed. The only good thing is it had no rust but the truck would have required too much work right off the bat just to make it decent. I had to pass on it. So my search continues!
RiFF RaFF
New member
You did what you thought was right. Very commendable.
Hang in there - the right girl (4Runner) will come along, and take you for a ride!
:hug:
nicnmike
New member
I always find it hard to say no! I finally figured out a way to over come that by spending more time looking at the vehicle and re-looking. Then I start thinking about all the effort it's going to take to fix any of the obvious issues I see. Then I think about all the hidden stuff and the full tune up and the stuff that needs to be replaced on a 20 year old vehicle. If you're good at wrenching (or not afraid of it), you might find a truck with a bad head gasket, but in great shape otherwise and with a bunch of new parts on it, for a really great price.
Yeah I really liked the truck right when I saw it and I even made the guy an offer.(I think because I was in the moment) but the engine was bad and he said he would have his mechanic look at it. After I slept on it, in the morning I was able to think about it with a clear mind and I was like, holy crap that car is trashed what the hell am I thinking. That's when I call the guy and told him I no longer was going to buy it. Long story short DONT LET YOUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS GET THE BEST OF YOU 
bobthebuilder
New member
My biggest issue is that all first gens in my area are crusty. I've been hunting for one on and off for 4-5 years (mainly after selling my 83 lifted LC and 94 lifted 4rnr) and have found that the "good" ones are out of state.... That makes checking them over pre purchase difficult at best. Oh well, the search continues
