After Installing new UBJ, LBJ, Bushings, and CV Axle? CV's binding

[TRevsRunner]

Hey guys, got a question for you all. Something does not feel right! So recently just got everything back together last night Sunday, Nov 1st after doing upper and lower ball joints, replacing all the bushings in the control arms uppers and lowers, also replacing CV axles. CV's are from Napa Auto parts and all other bushings and ball joints are OEM. So after finishing I still had my truck on jack stands and I spun my tires to check that they rotated ok. My passenger tire was having a tough time rotating and was binding up in the fully flexed position. On the truck I got the Toytec adjustable coilover shocks - 600lbs adjustable to 0"-3" and I don't think I have it fully adjusted up to 3". On the rear I have the Toytec rear superflex coils with stock weight lift says 3.75". So I've never had this problem before so I am curious if was I supposed to torque those upper control arms at regular ride height or weight? In other words should I have tightened those UCA's with the car not on jack stands? Because you know with new bushings and everything it makes those control arms harder to move. I guess the alternate solution would be to get the front diff drop kit. But I've heard that kit doesn't really do much. So my main question is when tightening everything back down are you supposed to tighten the UCA's with he truck on the ground? Also it's obviously out of alignment. Will an Alignment help the CV from binding? Will obviously help it from being all over the road since its out of whack. Or should I just suck it up and get that drop kit? I'm sure this has been asked before but what's the max recommended lift amount for 02 Toyota 4Runner?

 

[JayRolla]

Hey guys, got a question for you all. Something does not feel right! So recently just got everything back together last night Sunday, Nov 1st after doing upper and lower ball joints, replacing all the bushings in the control arms uppers and lowers, also replacing CV axles. CV's are from Napa Auto parts and all other bushings and ball joints are OEM. So after finishing I still had my truck on jack stands and I spun my tires to check that they rotated ok. My passenger tire was having a tough time rotating and was binding up in the fully flexed position. On the truck I got the Toytec adjustable coilover shocks - 600lbs adjustable to 0"-3" and I don't think I have it fully adjusted up to 3". On the rear I have the Toytec rear superflex coils with stock weight lift says 3.75". So I've never had this problem before so I am curious if was I supposed to torque those upper control arms at regular ride height or weight? In other words should I have tightened those UCA's with the car not on jack stands? Because you know with new bushings and everything it makes those control arms harder to move. I guess the alternate solution would be to get the front diff drop kit. But I've heard that kit doesn't really do much. So my main question is when tightening everything back down are you supposed to tighten the UCA's with he truck on the ground? Also it's obviously out of alignment. Will an Alignment help the CV from binding? Will obviously help it from being all over the road since its out of whack. Or should I just suck it up and get that drop kit? I'm sure this has been asked before but what's the max recommended lift amount for 02 Toyota 4Runner?

You said its only binding in full flex position makes me think you have the front lifted to high. The superflex coils should give you almost 1" higher rear and a good amount of rake. Is the truck sitting level front and back?

 

[9494runner]

Hey guys, got a question for you all. Something does not feel right! So recently just got everything back together last night Sunday, Nov 1st after doing upper and lower ball joints, replacing all the bushings in the control arms uppers and lowers, also replacing CV axles. CV's are from Napa Auto parts and all other bushings and ball joints are OEM. So after finishing I still had my truck on jack stands and I spun my tires to check that they rotated ok. My passenger tire was having a tough time rotating and was binding up in the fully flexed position. On the truck I got the Toytec adjustable coilover shocks - 600lbs adjustable to 0"-3" and I don't think I have it fully adjusted up to 3". On the rear I have the Toytec rear superflex coils with stock weight lift says 3.75". So I've never had this problem before so I am curious if was I supposed to torque those upper control arms at regular ride height or weight? In other words should I have tightened those UCA's with the car not on jack stands? Because you know with new bushings and everything it makes those control arms harder to move. I guess the alternate solution would be to get the front diff drop kit. But I've heard that kit doesn't really do much. So my main question is when tightening everything back down are you supposed to tighten the UCA's with he truck on the ground? Also it's obviously out of alignment. Will an Alignment help the CV from binding? Will obviously help it from being all over the road since its out of whack. Or should I just suck it up and get that drop kit? I'm sure this has been asked before but what's the max recommended lift amount for 02 Toyota 4Runner?

Install a diff drop!!

 

[A.Wilson013]

I agree that it sounds like you're too tall in the front... What is the measurement from the center of your hub to the fender? If it's over 23" and you're not running a body lift, you're probably running too much lift.

As for torquing of the UCA... It doesn't matter which position it is in. 82lbs (I think that's the spec off the top of my head) is 82lbs whether it's on the ground or off the ground.

Install a diff drop!!

Stop it.

 

[JayRolla]

Stop it.

I could slightly help his situation.

 

[9494runner]

Stop it.

Uh lol? Diff drop is a viable option if he only binds at full droop. Binding with just the truck weight would be a serious lift issue.

Had same issue after I did bj spacers. Did a 4crawler diff droop and now cvs are smooth as butter at full drop.

 

[A.Wilson013]

It could slightly help his situation.

Uh lol?

Had same issue after I did bj spacers. Did a 4crawler diff drop and now cvs are smooth as butter at full drop.

While it could help, a diff drop should not be NEEDED to run a Toytec coilovers. Countless folks run without them and experience no binding.

Something else is going on, in my opinion.


When my starter went out I had the same issue as when my wife ran her car out of gas. Unfortunately filling my tank didn't fix my starter =D

 

[9494runner]

While it could help, a diff drop should not be NEEDED to run a Toytec coilovers. Countless folks run without them and experience no bindings.

Something else is going on, in my opinion.


When my starter went out I had the same issue as when my wife ran her car out of gas. Unfortunately filling my tank didn't fix my starter =D

I didn't say it was needed... he asked for suggestions and I gave him one, you gave him another. Both are viable solutions

Unlike your gas and starter problems, both a diff drop and height adjustment will fix the same problem at hand

 

[A.Wilson013]

I didn't say it was needed... he asked for suggestions and I gave him one, you gave him another. Both are viable solutions

Well, if either of us had any reading compression abilities we would have noticed that he had the lift before he did the UBJ, LBJ, bushings, and CVs and didn't have this issue.

Shoot!

 

[JayRolla]

While it could help, a diff drop should not be NEEDED to run a Toytec coilovers. Countless folks run without them and experience no binding.

Something else is going on, in my opinion.


When my starter went out I had the same issue as when my wife ran her car out of gas. Unfortunately filling my tank didn't fix my starter =D

Lot of those toytec lifts are bought in the ultimate or boss kit. The kit always comes with diff drop.

Your right, most likely over adjusted coilovers.

 

[TRevsRunner]

From the looks of it, it seems like the front is sitting a little higher than the rear. When I first got them installed they said they put the fromt a half inch higher than the rear. They thought it would settle That was before I got the superflex's. The rear initially had 3"spacers before the superflex's went on. I am going to put a level on it tomorrow or Thursday and lower the front a tad. Also, sitting on a 2" body lift so that measurement above 23" would be 25" plus the body lift correct?

Also Toytec coilover shocks and rear superflex's were purchased separately. No diff drop was purchased. Have thought about getting one, but after reading how many people say that they are overrated, is the reason why I have asked.

I used to pay people to do my shit but after finding out how hard it is to trust a mechanic to do their job correctly, I started doing it all myself.

 

[A.Wilson013]

I am going to put a level on it tomorrow or Thursday and lower the front a tad. Also, sitting on a 2" body lift so that measurement above 23" would be 25" plus the body lift correct?

If you're level front to back with superflex's in the rear, your front will be too high.

Try to lower it to 25" MAX up front (figuring in the body lift) and see how it goes.

 

[JayRolla]

From the looks of it, it seems like the front is sitting a little higher than the rear. When I first got them installed they said they put the fromt a half inch higher than the rear. They thought it would settle That was before I got the superflex's. The rear initially had 3"spacers before the superflex's went on. I am going to put a level on it tomorrow or Thursday and lower the front a tad. Also, sitting on a 2" body lift so that measurement above 23" would be 25" plus the body lift correct?

Also Toytec coilover shocks and rear superflex's were purchased separately. No diff drop was purchased. Have thought about getting one, but after reading how many people say that they are overrated, is the reason why I have asked.

I used to pay people to do my shit but after finding out how hard it is to trust a mechanic to do their job correctly, I started doing it all myself.

Toytec coil overs if assembled when bought are set to recommended height and should only be adjusted if weight is added to get your ride height back.

I would measure hub to fender all around and adjust front 1" lower than rear. You will have some rake but will stop binding, save your other suspension components from failing prematurely and should greatly increase ride quality.

 

[TRevsRunner]

Pic I had from the past will have to measure what the current height is

 

[TRevsRunner]

Will have to measure it again with the new UBJ,LBJ, Bushing, an CV axle job.

 

[D Farms]

I would have it aligned, chances are that the old bushings were so bad that they had to way over compensate while doing the alignment. after i redid my front bushings my front tires were binding so bad that i couldnt drive down the street at all. are you even sure its the cv binding? also lify height has nothing to do with full droop binding, unless you are using a shock thats too long, or you are running a big top plate spacer. all this being said is it just binding at full droop? did you leave it in 4wd by accident?

 

[JayRolla]

Holy front lift Batman!!!!!!

Here is mine with 3" front and 1/5" buddy lift. Even from far you can tell you have inches on me.

 

[TRevsRunner]

Ok so I got my truck back today. So you said I should be at 25" from the top of the fender to the center of the hub at regular ride height. So looks lik a am a little high! Tell me what should the measurement be at full droop? I'm not working on a lift so finding level ground is sorta of difficult. Can you walk me through the steps on how to level your truck please?

 

[TRevsRunner]

This is where I'm sitting at now

 

[JayRolla]

This is where I'm sitting at now

You need to have or purchase a spanner wrench. Toytec website has a PDF on there suspension install and shows how to adjust the coilover.