After Market Speaker Wiring

Hello all,

I am getting ready to replace the stock speakers and head unit. Through research I have learned that that the rear doors and rear hatch door speakers are wired in a series connection. I will be running new speaker wire as part of this project and am looking for some advice.

Should I wire the new speakers in a serial or parallel wiring configuration?

Thanks!
Dubbz
 
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I am installing a 5 channel amp as well. Was planning on using new 16g wire from the amp to the speakers.

I took the lazy route with an under seat sub/amp and "T- harness", but I wasn't looking for glass shattering bass. Shouldn't be all that difficult to follow the factory wires after the interior is pulled. Getting to the hatch would be the worst.
 
Depends on how you want to run your amp to speakers.

Front stage (dash and door)
Rear stage (rear door and hatch)
Sub

Depending on amp rms rating, using factory wiring might be easier to run for the rear and hatch

What speakers are you planning to run. Coax or components (passive I'm assuming)

Right now, I'm running a passive set of front door and custom sail panel tweeters on one channel, dash on another, sub for 5th and the factory deck running the rear and hatch for fill.
 
Depends on how you want to run your amp to speakers.

Front stage (dash and door)
Rear stage (rear door and hatch)
Sub

Depending on amp rms rating, using factory wiring might be easier to run for the rear and hatch

What speakers are you planning to run. Coax or components (passive I'm assuming)

Right now, I'm running a passive set of front door and custom sail panel tweeters on one channel, dash on another, sub for 5th and the factory deck running the rear and hatch for fill.

I am planning just as you indicated. I purchased JL Audio C5-650 for the front & dash, and JL Audio C2-650x for the rear and hatch. I also got the JL Audio XD700/5v2 for the Amp. The head unit is the new Alpine iLX-F309FRN.

I have the interior torn out currently doing a sound deadening treatment to the whole vehicle. I decided while I have it out, I might as well do the audio system.
 
For non-jbl units, all speakers are 4 ohms. Dash and front doors are wired together, as are rear doors and hatch. Head unit sees 2 ohm load. I'd recommend you tie into factory wiring with an amp that can handle 2 ohm load and using factory wiring to keep it simple. Most amps will make a little more power at 2 ohms.
 
For non-jbl units, all speakers are 4 ohms. Dash and front doors are wired together, as are rear doors and hatch. Head unit sees 2 ohm load. I'd recommend you tie into factory wiring with an amp that can handle 2 ohm load and using factory wiring to keep it simple. Most amps will make a little more power at 2 ohms.

I was able to run new wire to all locations, except for the passenger doors. They have a switch that is connected inside the vehicle and the plug is just inside the boot that transfers the wires into the door.

Driver side rear door wires are Black & Yellow in the vehicle and passenger side rear door are Red & White. All the other doors were fairly easy to route through the wire boot.

It helped that I had the full interior out for installation of sound dampening material.

I have to run the RCA cables to the amp today and then will be able to test it all out.

Regards,
Dubbz
 
Should I wire the new speakers in a serial or parallel wiring configuration?

Thanks!
Dubbz

Both could be the right answer... This is entirely dependent on your equipment.

The reason to chose one over the other is for the operational impedance.

Two 4 ohm speaker in series is 8 ohm load on the amp.
Two 4 ohm speaker in parallel is a 2 ohm load on the amp.

If you have 8 ohm speakers and a 4 ohm amp, then parallel is your answer.

You can also use a combination of the two provided you have enough power... I did this with a 4 driver sub woofer array at home.
 
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