Aftermarket Stereo System Planning Help

Inv4drZm

Inv4drZm

Senior Member
I want to upgrade the stock non-JBL system in my 2005 4Runner to something respectable but am pretty much a complete noob when it comes to car audio. Will these components work? My brother's FJ with it's OEM sub sounds decent to my untrained ears so this would destroy it right? Wasn't really looking to spend $1000, but if you guys want to pitch-in some $ for my graduation next month this and a set of 35's would make nice presents, haha.

I'd like a touchscreen HU for the look and so I can easily change songs on a connected USB drive. I've already completely sound-deadened the interior and I have an OEM sub box waiting to be installed in the back. I mainly listen to rock/metal but never cranked up super loud.

  • Kenwood eXcelon DDX594 $400 Crutchfield
  • Rockford Fosgate R600X5 Prime 5ch Amp $240 Amazon
  • Alpine SPR-69 6x9" 2-Way Coax Type-R Speakers $107 Amazon
  • Alpine SPR-60 6.5" 2-Way Coax Type-R Speakers $110 Amazon
  • Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Sub $100 Amazon
Total: $960
 
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I think you can do better with the head unit itself! I'm not the seller of this particular item but I do have the same one installed in my '07 Sport. It's a nav unit as well - however it is discontinued. As long you locate a $30 software/maps upgrade to 2015 version off eBay, it will last you a long time. If you end up going this route, do not purchase the upgrade through Pioneer as they retail for approx. $100 I think?

Feel free to consider this one!

Pioneer AVC-Z110BT CD/DVD GPS Navigation Bluetooth | eBay

However I'm biased as I have everything Pioneer in my Sport haha


Edit: no easy access for USB output - would need to resort to AUX or you can find an upgraded version of Z series for a cheaper price than the one mentioned above that includes USB!
 
those items look good to go. it will sound good and better then an OEM system but it wont sound the same as an OEM system because usally the engenieers set up the sound to fit the vehicle. and the only way to do that with an aftermarket system is with a DSP
 
I did my entire system myself and have tuned it and improved it over the past year. If you want it to sound good you have to take a few steps before you install. I have linked below the adapter from tacotunes so you can fit the 6x9 and the rear 6..5 speakers aftermarket speakers. Then you need to do some sound deadening to reduce the rattling and vibration in the doors. I can't stress enough how much better the sound is when you sound deaden. The material you need linked below. Its a foil self adhesive vinyl rubber that will make your door speakers sound much better and reduce rattling. Its a night and day difference and its not that expensive. You can save alot if you do it all your self. The next thing that you need is the FAST rings. I linked below. These rings will have a huge impact its not just a ring it also has a foam plug that goes behind the speaker against the door and it will absorb a very good amount of vibration and makes the mid bass sound MUCH better. There is an epic thread that shows a full high level sound deadening of the entire truck sound deadening. You do not have to go way overboard like this guy but if you do the doors correctly it will be an amazing sounding system. I also linked to the headunit I use Its android based and has navigation, rear camera, OBD connectivity etc. Not a huge fan of Sony for car audio at all. You can do way better for less $. If you have any questions about how to do any of this, PM me. You can see some pictures in my signature of how my headunit turned out. You also need good heavy duty wiring for power to the amps and a fuse block. I also noticed you have coax speakers specd for the doors. You want to make sure you can split them into components. You want to swap the tweeters with new ones. I have CDT audio I am happy with, also consider mb quart cheap and decent or image dynamics for a bit more $. Dont cheap out on the front door speakers make sure you get good ones as those are the ones you hear the most. just make sure they are components. You also need to think about what kind of box you are going to put the sub in, lots of choices.

http://amzn.to/2oynfEV

http://amzn.to/2p30NoP

http://amzn.to/2pAYe9O

http://amzn.to/2oyauKm

https://i2.wp.com/tacotunes.com/wp-...x9-Front-6_5-Rear-Door-Kit.jpg?resize=212,139

https://i0.wp.com/tacotunes.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/06/1227927254520279578954.jpg?resize=212,139
 
Last edited:
bassmacka said:
I did my entire system myself and have tuned it and improved it over the past year. If you want it to sound good you have to take a few steps before you install. I have linked below the adapter from tacotunes so you can fit the 6x9 and the rear 6..5 speakers aftermarket speakers. Then you need to do some sound deadening to reduce the rattling and vibration in the doors. I can't stress enough how much better the sound is when you sound deaden. The material you need linked below. Its a foil self adhesive vinyl rubber that will make your door speakers sound much better and reduce rattling. Its a night and day difference and its not that expensive. You can save alot if you do it all your self. The next thing that you need is the FAST rings. I linked below. These rings will have a huge impact its not just a ring it also has a foam plug that goes behind the speaker against the door and it will absorb a very good amount of vibration and makes the mid bass sound MUCH better. There is an epic thread that shows a full high level sound deadening of the entire truck sound deadening. You do not have to go way overboard like this guy but if you do the doors correctly it will be an amazing sounding system. I also linked to the headunit I use Its android based and has navigation, rear camera, OBD connectivity etc. Not a huge fan of Sony for car audio at all. You can do way better for less $. If you have any questions about how to do any of this, PM me. You can see some pictures in my signature of how my headunit turned out. You also need good heavy duty wiring for power to the amps and a fuse block. I also noticed you have coax speakers specd for the doors. You want to make sure you can split them into components. You want to swap the tweeters with new ones. I have CDT audio I am happy with, also consider mb quart cheap and decent or image dynamics for a bit more $. Dont cheap out on the front door speakers make sure you get good ones as those are the ones you hear the most. just make sure they are components. You also need to think about what kind of box you are going to put the sub in, lots of choices.

http://amzn.to/2oynfEV

http://amzn.to/2p30NoP

http://amzn.to/2pAYe9O

http://amzn.to/2oyauKm

https://i2.wp.com/tacotunes.com/wp-...x9-Front-6_5-Rear-Door-Kit.jpg?resize=212,139

https://i0.wp.com/tacotunes.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/06/1227927254520279578954.jpg?resize=212,139
Click to expand...

Thanks, yes I have fully sound-deadened my truck already and have an OEM sub box I bought so I tried to find an 8" diameter less than 4" deep woofer.

I'm not really wanting to go much cheaper on the HU if I would only save $100 or so. It isn't that much of savings if I'm going to spend $1100 anyway.

I think this is the parts list so far:

  • Kenwood eXcelon DDX594 HU $400 Crutchfield
  • Rockford Fosgate R600X5 Prime 5ch Amp $240 Amazon
  • Kenwood XR-1800P 7" 2-Way eXcelon Component Speakers $140 Amazon
  • Kenwood KFCX174 Excelon 6.5-Inch 2-Way Speakers $72 Amazon
  • Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Sub $100 Amazon
  • Various wiring components and accessories $100
Total: ~$1100
 
Good choice on the Alpine speakers. I have them in mine and I love them. I got the coaxials and then ran separate tweeters to the stock location. So I basically have 4 tweeters in the front and it sounds excellent. Be careful replacing the sub that you don't break the clips back there because it will rattle a lot. I've got to get in and sound deaden mine soon because it's been driving me crazy.

Also I was able to fit my 6x9's in the stock location without aftermarket brackets. I just pushed the stock speakers out of the plastic outer rings and then dropped the alpines right in. Then all I had to do was trim the plastic oval on the inside of the door panel so it doesn't touch the speaker. I just did that with an exacto knife.
 
Dude trust me, just order all of the components and amps in my sig. Pretty much the best systems you can create for around $1,000. I've had it for a few years now and still sounds great!
 
Or this:
(Last one?)

  • Kenwood eXcelon DDX594 HU $400 Crutchfield
  • Rockford Fosgate R500X1D 1-Channel Amp $120 Amazon Powers Sub
  • Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amp $120 Amazon Bridged to power 6x9s
  • Jl C2-690tx 6x9 3 Way Speakers $145 Amazon
  • Jl C2-350x 3.5" 2 Way Speakers $72
  • Alpine SPS-610 6.5-Inch 2-Way Type-S Speakers $58 Powered off HU
  • JL 8W1v3-4 8" Sub $130
  • Various wiring components and accessories $100
Total: ~$1150

I have the stock 8" sub enclosure with a few broken mount tabs which I could fabricate new tabs and sound-deaden the enclosure even further. Or I could make my own enclosure to fit a 10" instead.
 
jfry008 said:
Here is mini amp I was looking at, kenwood KAC-M3004. It would be nice to mount it up front some where so you don't have to run wires to the back. Are you going to try and mount the 3.5" in the upper front doors?
https://youtu.be/99tiyWuuAGM
Click to expand...

Yes, I'll probably have to mod the mounts, make my own, or dent the inside of the doors or something but I'm pretty thrifty. I guess the question is will they work well in that location as a tweeter?
 
Have you thought about the Joying 200x100 head unit for Toyota on Amazon? I have one in mine. I love it. Drops right in with no brackets and looks OEM. Only thing I don't like about it is that when it fires up it always goes back to a certain home screen. And if you're streaming you have to push the BT/AD2P button. Other than that...solid and has all the bells and whistles the others have.
 
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