Airbag light, ABS light, Slip light, O MY!?!

[adio3x]

Greetings T4R, it has been quite awhile since I posted on here, haven't been driving the runner a whole lot since I got my duc. Anyways I went to Moab in mid July, haven't been able to really look at things after getting back, but I've noticed a couple lights come and go since then.

1. My red airbag light (symbol of the little guy with seatbelt and airbag) turned on about 3 weeks ago and has stayed on.

2. Sometimes my slip light will turn on & my scan gauge II will turn off. Won't turn back on until I turn the car off and back on. I've had the issue of slip light/abs on (it was a broken abs sensor), but the scan gauge never turned off.

3.Something weird happened the other night, was driving through my neighborhood (going up hill), the abs/slip light/power steering light turned on, scan gauge turned off, speedo stopped working, car was still working. Got back to my house, let it run for a few more seconds, shut it off, turned it on and everything was fine.

4. I ran the scan gauge for codes but nothing is coming up. My TPMS light is on and has been on since moab (driving on a full size spare, got a 6 inch gash from White Rim lol) but I don't think that has any correlation.

Any Toyota Gods out there? Anyone possibly run into the same issues? Trying to save $90, if all fails I suppose I'll head to the stealership.

Thanks all!

~Andrew

 

[jrandom]

Since you said you haven't driven it in a while the first thing I would look for is a mouse nest, or chewed up wiring harness courtesy of some other rodent.

Ask me how I know this : If you park it for any length of time you should throw air fresheners, moth balls, or even better an electronic deterrent under the hood.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Disconnect the Scangauge from the vehicle and run it a week or two and note if the issues persist. The fact that there was an oddity with ABS/VSC system turning the light on and the Scangauge powering down makes me wonder if it's mucking up communication on the network bus.

 

[rigtec]

Greetings T4R, it has been quite awhile since I posted on here, haven't been driving the runner a whole lot since I got my duc. Anyways I went to Moab in mid July, haven't been able to really look at things after getting back, but I've noticed a couple lights come and go since then.

1. My red airbag light (symbol of the little guy with seatbelt and airbag) turned on about 3 weeks ago and has stayed on.

2. Sometimes my slip light will turn on & my scan gauge II will turn off. Won't turn back on until I turn the car off and back on. I've had the issue of slip light/abs on (it was a broken abs sensor), but the scan gauge never turned off.

3.Something weird happened the other night, was driving through my neighborhood (going up hill), the abs/slip light/power steering light turned on, scan gauge turned off, speedo stopped working, car was still working. Got back to my house, let it run for a few more seconds, shut it off, turned it on and everything was fine.

4. I ran the scan gauge for codes but nothing is coming up. My TPMS light is on and has been on since moab (driving on a full size spare, got a 6 inch gash from White Rim lol) but I don't think that has any correlation.

Any Toyota Gods out there? Anyone possibly run into the same issues? Trying to save $90, if all fails I suppose I'll head to the stealership.

Thanks all!

~Andrew

Hi Andrew,

I've been through it... trust me on this one! My dashboard notification center lit up like it was Chinese New Year on the 4TH of July in Times Square; not good! Not only did my Speed-o-meter and Tach-o-meter stop working, but on occasion, I'd be taking my sweety out on a date and all of my dashboard back-lighting would just shut-off while driving at night... couldn't see the instrument cluster at all! What made matters worst was no one was willing to work on it; Toyota wouldn't touch it cuz they saw that I had a few aftermarket "amenities" on the truck e.g., Fog-lights, LED on the bull-bar, DC Power Engineering 270-XP under the hood...etc!

And none of the independent diagnostic shops in the area knew how to trouble-shoot an ECU problem where the ECU wasn't communicating, meaning that the ECU 'itself' was the problem! As it turned out... I was on my own! So I understand where you are right now. And if you haven't found out what it means to have even the dealerships shut their bay doors on you when you're still under warranty... you'll find out lol! Okay, here's what has likely happened. Your Main Body ECU COMPU Network has lost one of it's power sources, meaning, one of the two 10A ECU fuses in the Driver-side junction/fusebox or the 10A ECU-B fuse in the Engine Room, Main Relay/Fusebox under the hood has become blown or (more than likely) dislodged to the point where the contacts aren't making proper connection with the prongs on the fuses or the Short Pin in the main Relay/fusebox is not making proper connection with the contacts that secure it in it's slot; hence, a power supply loss!

Okay, here's what you do: Try pulling out each ECU fuse from the driver-side fusebox. Check it for an OPENED CIRCUIT. If it checks out, return it to it's slot and move to the next one; I could have sworn that there were three ECU fuses in the D/S fuse box alone, but I just checked it before posting and I saw only two, but... it's been a long day! Next, move to the Main fusebox under the hood. Remove the cover and find the '10A Fuse labeled ECU-B'; that's the HOT AT ALL TIMES fuse that keeps the Main Body ECU COMPU Network energized so that it is capable of storing temporary files/history logs and trouble codes for future reference! Test the fuse and if it checks out, return it to it's slot, making certain that it's pushed firmly in it's slot...

Now do the same with the 'SHORT PIN'; it's not a fuse but just an electrical buss bar, joining two different sections of the main box, so you don't need to check it for an opened circuit like you would with a fuse, but only that it's pushed securely into it's contact slot! PS: Please double check that there aren't any other fuses marked ECU before closing the two boxes up! Once you're certain that you've checked that all ECU fuses are not blown and are pushed securely into their contact slots, you're done, now button it up! Start it up and those instrument cluster notification icons should be gone. Also, your OBD-ll portal should be communicating as it was prior to this system failure! Please be sure to let us know if this did or did not resolve your problem(s), but I'm sure that the MB-ECU has lost a portion of it's power supply. If this procedure hasn't resolved the trouble then we'll need to approach this a different way, so "don't be discouraged"..., Best to you,

rig