Airbox inlet instead of deckplate mod?

crespoh69

Member
Hey guys, was reading up on the deckplate mod and with the advent of 3D printing I got to wondering why, instead of making a hole and possibly affecting emmisions testing, has anyone tried to do an inlet that attaches to the airbox instead similar to this? From my understandng the deckplate mod channels incoming air as the car moves forward right? So would it be safe to assume you could open the airbox, plop this on the top and still get the benefit of the inrushing air without real modification to your box or am I missing something?

Has anyone tried this? Any concerns or issues you ran into? From my understanding some users also just run with the airbox just open but I believe this just sucks in warm engine air, right?
 
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A big snorkel out the top of the airbox is a lot more visible than a deck plate (that you can get in black!) on the front of the box. There's also nowhere to go other than right in front of the airbox - there isn't clearance to run to a cool air location. I have passed California emissions testing with a deckplate. Any mods 'before' the air filter are generally ok. Mine is black and I put the cap on during testing to minimize questions.

The reason for the deckplate mod is that the stock intake snorkel behind the fender necks down to around 1.5" diameter and is the major restriction on the intake. Stock, there isn't much horsepower gain - but supercharged engines breath much better with a more open airbox. It also adds a lot of intake noise stock or supercharged, if that's your thing.

If you want low-key flow improvements, replace the elbow in the fender with a bell mouth / velocity stack. I modified the stock elbow in the fender to hold one to get improved flow when the deck plate is closed. I happened to just have it leftover in the garage from a long ago project - so I don't have any specs.

-Charlie
 
A tiny bit of power (less than a small lawnmower amount) can be had be removing the Whole air dampner which is after the MAF and before the plenum.

More noise too which is the purpose of the crazy shaped 'box'. "straight tube" it between the MAF and plenum - supposedly adds about 5-7 hp, which is not much but for an engine that only out 183 at Peak, that can be Felt.

Luck and enjoy the Runner.
 
A big snorkel out the top of the airbox is a lot more visible than a deck plate (that you can get in black!) on the front of the box. There's also nowhere to go other than right in front of the airbox - there isn't clearance to run to a cool air location. I have passed California emissions testing with a deckplate. Any mods 'before' the air filter are generally ok. Mine is black and I put the cap on during testing to minimize questions.

The reason for the deckplate mod is that the stock intake snorkel behind the fender necks down to around 1.5" diameter and is the major restriction on the intake. Stock, there isn't much horsepower gain - but supercharged engines breath much better with a more open airbox. It also adds a lot of intake noise stock or supercharged, if that's your thing.

If you want low-key flow improvements, replace the elbow in the fender with a bell mouth / velocity stack. I modified the stock elbow in the fender to hold one to get improved flow when the deck plate is closed. I happened to just have it leftover in the garage from a long ago project - so I don't have any specs.

-Charlie

I wish someone would 3D Print the TRD Elbow that came with the superchargers...

As far as the deckplate adding noise, that seems to really matter when you remove the intake silencer and have the deckplate open. With the silencer in place, I don't really notice much difference with the deckplate open. Also, according to my scan tool, the intake air temp is ambient with the deckplate open since it draws from right behind the headlight. At least, that was/is my experience.
 
I get that, but what I meant by the 3D print is that it would either be friction fit or something similar where modification to the current box would be unecessary.
 
I get that, but what I meant by the 3D print is that it would either be friction fit or something similar where modification to the current box would be unecessary.
Pull the stock elbow out and match the design where it interfaces to the stock airbox and how it bolts to the fender, then 'add' what you need. Definitely no need to mod the stock airbox to go from a ~1.5" diameter inlet to a ~2.5-3" inlet.

I did it with old school manual methods (hack saw, files, grinder, etc.) but a 3d printer would be cleaner (though not faster!).

-Charlie
 

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