ajohnson's 85 build

[ajohnson]

Please comment with questions or suggestions, I would love to hear some feedback from fellow T4r members.

I bought an '07 Tacoma Prerunner back in '09. After a couple years I was really kicking myself for not getting a 4x4. Two years ago I started researching and searching for parts for a SAS, but decided not to cut into my beautiful DD just yet.

I decided to get a 2nd vehicle for a trail rig. Something I could build into a capable rig, preferably a 1st gen 4runner which I have always loved. So I bought this '85, exactly what I was looking for; SFA and fuel injection.

The day I bought it.








unknown brand 4" lift with 5" rear lift blocks:flame:
22re; 240k miles, new headgasket and timing chain
5 spd swap w/ new clutch, top shift case
new 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's
clean almost complete interior
power steering

Parts list;
Softopper
4xinnovations tube doors
Addicted offroad front bumper
Booty fabbed sliders and rear bumper with rear fender bars
Roundeyes H4 headlamps
Zeus 18" lightbar
Hella 500 fog and driving lights
Vision-x rock lights
Blitz pro 6lz backup lights
100 amp gm alternator with trail gear mount
Diehard 31m battery
ARB air compressor
Blue Sea fuse block
Smittybilt xrc8 comp.
Dual cases w/ 4.7's and triple shifters
Trail gear dual case crossmember
4xinnovations engine and tcase mounts
High pinion front diff w/ Yukon zip locker & 5.29
Stock rear axle w/ spartan locker & 5.29
Trail gear 4" classic lifts w/ high steer
14" front 5125 and 12" rear shocks
Trail gear trunnion bearing eliminator, chromoly inner/outer hub gears
ARP steering and hub studs
Marlin backing plate eliminator
Longfield super axles
T100 brake booster
1" bore master cylinder
V6 calipers and vented rotors
Lspv delete w/ Summit manual prop. Valve
Pro comp series 52 17x9 2.5" b.s.
Trail gear 1" wheel spacers
Goodyear MTR 37x12.5r17

 

[ajohnson]

I put a Softopper on it and took it wheeling. The 5" rear blocks, stiff front springs and open diffs really sucked.

 

[ajohnson]

The first thing I had to change was the suspension. It rode like a wagon and didn't flex well at all. I had Carolina Truggies install Trail Gear 4" classic lifts front and rear w/ Bilstein 5125s.











I got a driveline e-brake from All-Pro


Then I picked up some 5.29's from a friend.

 

[Hyde802]

Looks sweet! I love the "I drive over stuff sticker"

I dont know about that tube around the fenders and such, seems if you really lean on it, it will just bend into the body....

 

[ajohnson]

I took it back to URE with the new suspension and it was amazing. I still had a long way to go.

My next issue to resolve was the brakes. I knew something needed to be done about the rear. The front already had V6 rotors and calipers.

My main upgrades were a dual diaphram brake booster and a 1" bore master cylinder. I believe DD boosters were introduced with the 3.0 models in '88, and became standard equipment in all models after 1990, '89 pickups, FJ's, as well as T-100's. Also introduced in '88 V6 models was the larger 1" bore master cylinder, as opposed to the 7/8" bore used in previous years.

Here are the parts I upgraded/replaced, most were sourced from rockauto.com

Rear brake rebuild; drums, shoes, hardware
T-100 brake booster
1" bore master cylinder
Manual proportioning valve from FROR
LSPV block off



The rear drums before




after


dual diaphram brake booster w/ 1" bore master cylinder vs. single diaphram booster w/ 7/8" bore master cylinder




Manual proportioning valve for the rear brakes (not being hooked to the front port!)


LSPV block-off, this bolt was the only correctly sized plug I could find locally

 

[ajohnson]

Looks sweet! I love the "I drive over stuff sticker"

I dont know about that tube around the fenders and such, seems if you really lean on it, it will just bend into the body....

Thanks! I get comments on that sticker all the time.

As for the tube, yeeeaaaaa. The P/O booty fabbed that crap, but it has actually saved my fenders every time I have taken it out.

 

[4-Ripcord]

That is an awesome 4runner. Cant think of a better weekend toy!
Must be an absolute blast to wheel.

Story on that 3rd gen back there?

 

[ajohnson]

The brake upgrade was a huge success. While I worked on the brake system I had taken the diffs out and sent them to ECGS with my 5.29's I had picked up.

It sucks not having a garage hwell:



















Here are the diffs, back from ECGS. 5.29's, Spartan for the front, spool for the rear.



Then I got some 35x12.5r15 BFG KM2's mounted on Pro Comp series 52 15x8 wheels w/ 2.5" backspacing. These wheels don't fit over the V6 calipers on SFA hubs :mad2:, so I installed some 1" Trail Gear wheel spacers.





Finally got it put back together on a Friday night and took it for a test drive. :driving:

 

[ajohnson]

That is an awesome 4runner. Cant think of a better weekend toy!
Must be an absolute blast to wheel.



Story on that 3rd gen back there?

Thank you! And yes it is a blast.

The 3rd gen is my friend's mom's 4runner.

 

[Hyde802]

Where can I find this plug? I need to block mine off..

 

[ajohnson]

I put in a Vision-X rock light kit, and took a break from wrenching and enjoyed wheeling it for a while. Everything worked great but of course I discovered some things I wanted to change.

Horunner on Rocky Mountain Loop - YouTube

horunner on Kodak - YouTube

 

[ajohnson]

Where can I find this plug? I need to block mine off..

The size is 10x1. I got the shortest bolt I could find. I couldn't find a plug in that size anywhere local.

 

[ajohnson]

Turning with a front locker is a real pain on tight trails, and I really wanted a high pinion front 3rd to help the driveshaft angle and keep the driveshaft out of the rocks. So I decided to upgrade along with many other parts. Here is what I have sitting around waiting for install now.

HP 3rd with 5.29's and Yukon Zip Locker




The HP 3rd, Longfield superaxles, TG chromoly inner/outer hub gears, TG trunnion bearing eliminators, backing plate eliminators, ARP hub studs, ARP steering arm studs


4xinnovations hd engine and transfer case mounts, TG dual case crossmember




I replaced my front 12" 5125 shocks with 14" units






And finally installed a CB radio. Uniden Pro 510XL, door jamb antenna mount, and Wilson 4'




Then I gave it a valve adjustment, and new valve cover gaskets. Everything looks pretty clean for 243k miles


So now I am waiting on my dual cases. 21 spline 2.28 front case, 23 spline 4.70 rear case w/ triple sticks :bluejump:

I'm going to start taking things apart tomorrow in preparation

 

[KidVermicious]

Love this build, and I love where you're going with it.

I got a kick out of your buddies giving you crap for taking the easy line. What are friends for, huh?

 

[ajohnson]

Love this build, and I love where you're going with it.

I got a kick out of your buddies giving you crap for taking the easy line. What are friends for, huh?

Thanks man it has been fun so far.

I knew I was going to drag on those rocks, so I stayed to the left, and Kyle got mad :rofl:

 

[ajohnson]

The weather stopped me from wrenching this evening. It should be nice tomorrow. Along with the nice parts pile I am putting in, I will be cleaning up the frame and coating it with POR-15.

Here are some good shots of the rock lights. It is a Vision-X kit. I don't have any detailed pics of the mounting. I used metal flashing trimmed to size, bent into an angle, and anchored the flashing with bolts. I am pleased with this setup so far but I would like to add more lights at some point.

 

[ajohnson]

I finally started tearing down the front axle today. I had to take a break in the middle of it to change the locks on my sister's house.

Here are some steps to tearing down a Yota front axle with high-steer.

Remove the 10mm hub assembly bolts, and remove the hub assembly.

Remove the Birfield snap ring with your snap ring pliers.

Remove the 12mm nuts holding the hub body. Hit the cone washers with a tapered punch. That was not working well for me so I busted out the hard rubber persuasion tool. Remove the hub body.

The star washer should be bent over the spindle retaining nut, and the spindle lock nut. Bend the tabs straight with a screwdriver.

Remove the spindle lock nut with your 54mm socket, and only your 54mm socket. Then slide off the star ring, and remove the spindle retaining nut with your 54mm socket, and only your 54mm socket. Remove the thrust washer.

Remove the brake line retaining clips. My brake line bracket is notched so I did not need to disconnect the brake line. If yours is not notched, you will need to disconnect the brake line.

Remove the 17mm brake caliper bolts, and tie the caliper up out of the way.

Remove the brake rotor and catch the outer bearing. Remove the 14mm bolts holding the brake backing plate, and remove the brake backing plate.

Remove the spindle. You can also slide the Birfield out of the housing at this point. I left mine in for now.

Remove the 10mm bolts holding the knuckle felt rings, and pull the felt, wiper, and ring off of the knuckle.

Loosen the 17mm steering arm nuts.

Remove the drag link and tie rod nut retaining clips, and remove the 19mm nuts.

Remove the drag link and tie rod ends with a puller tool.

Now here is the fun part!!! Get your drift punch and mini sledge, and started whacking the steering arm studs until the cone washers brake free and allow the steering arm to slide out. I like to leave the nuts barely sticking up above the top of the stud, to prevent my punch from slipping off and damaging the threads, but they will need to be removed as the steering arm pops up higher.

After 30 min. of beating the studs, my passenger side arm finally broke free. I will be using anti-sieze on the cone washers during reassembly! And off comes the knuckle.


So now I am almost ready for my new parts:
HP 3rd w/ 5.29's and Yukon Zip locker
Longfield 30 spline superaxles
TG chromoly inner/outer hub gears
TG trunnion bearing eliminators w/ knuckle rebuild kit
Marlin Crawler backing plate eliminators
ARP steering arm and hub studs

I need to get the new trunnion bearing eliminator steering pins pressed into the high steer arms. The new lower knuckle caps bolt into place.

Here is a comparison shot of the Longfield 30 spline Superaxle next to the stock 27 spline birfield. Note the thickness of the axle shaft where it enters the Birfield.

 

[KidVermicious]

Good writeup! I'll be tearing into my front knuckles shortly, that'll help for sure.

 

[ajohnson]

Good writeup! I'll be tearing into my front knuckles shortly, that'll help for sure.

Thanks! Having the right tools really helps. The hardest part by far IMO is getting the steering arms off. It took me 30 min. to get down to the bare knuckle, and then another 30 min. of beating on the steering arm studs :bash:

 

[Travolous]

Great info and build. I'm up the way from you in Raleigh currently undergoing my SAS and motor swap. I just tore down my axle and sandblasted everything for painting. It looks like it just came from the factory, completely rebuilt. Let us know the difference the rebuild feels like! Also, would love to meet up at URE sometime.