the great him
Elite Member
so as some of you may know, i replaced all of my IFS over the weekend, everything but the eibach coils, and upper control arms and upper ball joints -those will be replaced with LightRacing units later...
now the only thing i have changed from my old set up to this set up, is i dropped the collar setting on my tundra 5100s from the 4th setting down to the 2nd setting(i never wanted them on the 4th setting and dont ever put them up that high ill get into that later but i almost died and or could of killed other people), and i added a 3/4" top plate spacer, but the drop from 4th to second is at least 3/4" so their should be no change.
before taking things appart we marked and measured everything and its location.
anyhow so i bought a cheap pair of lower control arms off of Ebay figuring that id run them for couple months untill i could source another set of arms or reuse my old ones but just put in new OEM bushings in them and then reinstall them. anyhow i also installed a new Safari LTD steering rack, along with new outter tie-rods(the rack comes with inners and a boot kit for those that dont know), new lower ball joints and new cams and bolts... so got every thing put back together and hooked up tried the old tape measure alignment to get things looking/eyeballed strait and driveable to the dealer where my father inlaw work, so it could go up on their rack to get aligned. well we had some issues, started out that i forgot to tighten up two of the cams(both on the drivers side) so as soon as i started driving it it got some nasty toe out, bad toe out. so i turned around in the driveway still(thankfully its only gravel) and pulled it back into the shop and we had to try again(not knowing the cams were lose) so we then got massive toe in... so back into the shop, and then we found the cams to only be finger tight -ah this must be the issue -even though we could not see where they had been shifting but still. so we tightened them down as much as we could -we made sure that we put the cams back as close as we could to their original location/marks so that we wouldnt be far out if at all. we redid the tape measure alignment for the 3rd time rolled it back and forth in and out of the shop to allow for any stress or binding to free up and settle then double checked and we were good, took it for a little drive but still had some issues and its not what id call drivable. but no worries as we figured it would just need to be put on a rack and we could go from there.
the issue now is no one can seam to get it aligned, and im not talking about perfect, its not even really drivable. its been on and off the rack 3 time yesterday and took all day for them to do that(it was the only vehicle on the rack yesterday. today my father inlaw put the sway bar back on the truck(we left it off just for ease of working on things) the dealer can only put the truck back to stock specs, cause thats all they have, but the guy dont the alignment says he cant even get it into stock specs so... now it was aligned before i took it up there, and it would track fine and drive nice and strait -until you hit a bump and then with 3 busted or worn bushings in the LCA and bad bushings in the rack, a leaky rack, and blown shocks/struts it would jitter all over the place for the next 60'-100' down the road. so thats why all the new stuff, and i cant go back to the old stuff.
you can get it close, but the moment you go to drive it things start moving around. like under braking you get gobs of toe-in and negative camber, and just the opposite under acceleration. so what im thinking is cause i only paid like $40 per lower control arm loaded with new bushings, the bushings are just crap and are not holding things and allowing for too much movement. or the other thing is i put anti-size on the outside of the cams -the through shaft part and the bolt on the inside of the shaft, but not the threads, i made usre and sprayed brake/parts cleaner on the threads so they would not have any contaminants before threading them on tight. those are the only two things that i can think of that would be allowing this.
i did order a new set of polly bushings for a 97 4runner for the lower control arms so i guess if they can not get it figured out today then im stuck with out untill the new bushings come in and i can go install those. -they are gonna try once more this morning with it on their rack again and if they cant get it, then they will send it to a shop down the street that does a lot of 4wds and bigger trucks(lifted ect). and let them try to play with it.








so whats your guys thoughts on this?
now the only thing i have changed from my old set up to this set up, is i dropped the collar setting on my tundra 5100s from the 4th setting down to the 2nd setting(i never wanted them on the 4th setting and dont ever put them up that high ill get into that later but i almost died and or could of killed other people), and i added a 3/4" top plate spacer, but the drop from 4th to second is at least 3/4" so their should be no change.
before taking things appart we marked and measured everything and its location.
anyhow so i bought a cheap pair of lower control arms off of Ebay figuring that id run them for couple months untill i could source another set of arms or reuse my old ones but just put in new OEM bushings in them and then reinstall them. anyhow i also installed a new Safari LTD steering rack, along with new outter tie-rods(the rack comes with inners and a boot kit for those that dont know), new lower ball joints and new cams and bolts... so got every thing put back together and hooked up tried the old tape measure alignment to get things looking/eyeballed strait and driveable to the dealer where my father inlaw work, so it could go up on their rack to get aligned. well we had some issues, started out that i forgot to tighten up two of the cams(both on the drivers side) so as soon as i started driving it it got some nasty toe out, bad toe out. so i turned around in the driveway still(thankfully its only gravel) and pulled it back into the shop and we had to try again(not knowing the cams were lose) so we then got massive toe in... so back into the shop, and then we found the cams to only be finger tight -ah this must be the issue -even though we could not see where they had been shifting but still. so we tightened them down as much as we could -we made sure that we put the cams back as close as we could to their original location/marks so that we wouldnt be far out if at all. we redid the tape measure alignment for the 3rd time rolled it back and forth in and out of the shop to allow for any stress or binding to free up and settle then double checked and we were good, took it for a little drive but still had some issues and its not what id call drivable. but no worries as we figured it would just need to be put on a rack and we could go from there.
the issue now is no one can seam to get it aligned, and im not talking about perfect, its not even really drivable. its been on and off the rack 3 time yesterday and took all day for them to do that(it was the only vehicle on the rack yesterday. today my father inlaw put the sway bar back on the truck(we left it off just for ease of working on things) the dealer can only put the truck back to stock specs, cause thats all they have, but the guy dont the alignment says he cant even get it into stock specs so... now it was aligned before i took it up there, and it would track fine and drive nice and strait -until you hit a bump and then with 3 busted or worn bushings in the LCA and bad bushings in the rack, a leaky rack, and blown shocks/struts it would jitter all over the place for the next 60'-100' down the road. so thats why all the new stuff, and i cant go back to the old stuff.
you can get it close, but the moment you go to drive it things start moving around. like under braking you get gobs of toe-in and negative camber, and just the opposite under acceleration. so what im thinking is cause i only paid like $40 per lower control arm loaded with new bushings, the bushings are just crap and are not holding things and allowing for too much movement. or the other thing is i put anti-size on the outside of the cams -the through shaft part and the bolt on the inside of the shaft, but not the threads, i made usre and sprayed brake/parts cleaner on the threads so they would not have any contaminants before threading them on tight. those are the only two things that i can think of that would be allowing this.
i did order a new set of polly bushings for a 97 4runner for the lower control arms so i guess if they can not get it figured out today then im stuck with out untill the new bushings come in and i can go install those. -they are gonna try once more this morning with it on their rack again and if they cant get it, then they will send it to a shop down the street that does a lot of 4wds and bigger trucks(lifted ect). and let them try to play with it.








so whats your guys thoughts on this?
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