jaredking733
New member
I will read your post to them. Thank you for this.
Alignment issues. Sanity check please!
- Thread starter jaredking733
- Start date
I will read your post to them. Thank you for this.
jaredking733
New member
I don't know the current set specs, but I have zero lift. Totally stock.
What did it cost to replace the bushings?
nevada
Senior Member
it sounds like maybe the rack bushings are bad, and the rack is moving side to side a bit.
whoever you take it to, have them check for that. its easy, engine off, and steer the wheel back and forth slightly while someone watches the rack.
jaredking733
New member
Steering rack was replaced with a brand new one about a year ago.
Would the bushings still be bad?
Edit: Just saw the rest of your post.
They've done that. No movement found.
jaredking733
New member
Didn't have a chance to go by the shop yesterday. Ran late at work.
By in large, it seems straight now, except for a few different places throughout my commute.
I'm starting to think it really is the crown of the road???
By in large, it seems straight now, except for a few different places throughout my commute.
I'm starting to think it really is the crown of the road???
jaredking733
New member
Alright guys, my schedule finally allowed me time to run it by the alignment shop.
Here are the results. They are...surprising to say the least.
Left Front
Camber: -0.1 degrees
Caster: 2.4 degrees
Toe: 0.11 degrees.
Right Front
Camber: 0.0 degrees
Caster: 3.1 degrees
Toe: 0.15 Degrees
Left Rear
Camber: -0.3 degrees
Toe: 0.17 degrees
Right Rear
Camber: -0.1 degrees
Toe: -0.09 degrees
Needless to say, I'm done messing with it. Obviously, there's nothing wrong with the alignment. All of the measurements are well within the green on the sheet.
Now, with all of that said, what would possibly cause the steering wheel to still be to the right at times, and is it worth messing with? I'm leaning towards no, but curious what you all have to say.
Here are the results. They are...surprising to say the least.
Left Front
Camber: -0.1 degrees
Caster: 2.4 degrees
Toe: 0.11 degrees.
Right Front
Camber: 0.0 degrees
Caster: 3.1 degrees
Toe: 0.15 Degrees
Left Rear
Camber: -0.3 degrees
Toe: 0.17 degrees
Right Rear
Camber: -0.1 degrees
Toe: -0.09 degrees
Needless to say, I'm done messing with it. Obviously, there's nothing wrong with the alignment. All of the measurements are well within the green on the sheet.
Now, with all of that said, what would possibly cause the steering wheel to still be to the right at times, and is it worth messing with? I'm leaning towards no, but curious what you all have to say.
IBallEngineer
New member
I don't see a thrust angle reading, has anyone looked at rear arm bushings? Bad thrust angle will steer the vehicle one way or another, causing unlevel steering wheel to go straight.
http://allentireco.com/info/images/thrust_angle.jpg
A positive thrust angle could cause steer to the left, inducing wheel off to the right, especially if the bushing allows movement, then corrects. You need to drive it till it fails then remeasure, or do a REALLY good inspection.
:couch2:
jaredking733
New member
There is a thrust angle. Standby for it.
jaredking733
New member
IBallEngineer
New member
No, you'd need more than 2 or 3 degrees. But was the steering off when they measured it? You need to see of the rear axle is shifting on one side or the other. This may be a dynamic occurrence, like under power or under braking.
Damn why are there so many piss poor alignment shops, makes me want to start my own!
jaredking733
New member
Well, just to check the alignment is free so it didn't cost me anything so that's good. :bounce:
No, the steering wheel was level when sitting on the machine. The tech asked how much off the steering wheel was when I noticed the problem. I held up a straight edge and showed him (it's not off much) and he said that he can't understand why that would be because it should be straight as an arrow.
I notice it is more prevalent on the interstate than anywhere else. It could partially be road crown, but combined with something else. Worn suspension maybe? Would the tires be enough to do what I'm talking about? They seem to be worn evenly across the entire tread.
jaredking733
New member
They didn't have to touch anything. All of the measurements were well within the "green."
IBallEngineer
New member
Road crown would make the vehicle go right, so your steering wheel would be to the left.
Since I'm not driving your car, it's hard to "get" the issue. But road crown drift and an un-level steering wheel are NOT EVEN CLOSE to the same symptom.
Sorry to flame here, but I'm thinking you aren't really paying attention to what people are telling you about bushings. LCA bushings, rack bushings, and rear link bushings. :flame:
That said, it doesn't matter if the alignment check is free. They don't know how to fix your car, so that makes them piss poor in my book. But at least they have a lot of company.
I'm done here, good luck! My last bit of advice for you is to find a PROFESSIONAL alignment shop.
:flamethrwoer2:
jaredking733
New member
I listening, just trying to rule out simple things before I start spending $$$. No offense taken. I appreciate all of your help, along with everyone else's thus far. It's time to start digging a little deeper now, into things like what you've mentioned.
You guys are great and I appreciate your help!
ajonesnv
New member
Occasionally I miss Tennessee...spent 11 years there as a kid. Lived out to the edge of Davidson and Rutherford County. That area has gone way down hill.
jaredking733
New member
There is great advice here. As I said, I'm thankful you all are willing to help me.
I'm online looking for a good shop right now that can identify the issue and replace that part, rather than taking one shot in the dark after another. Don't want this to start racking up cash any faster than necessary.
:banana:
jaredking733
New member
Yeah, it's such a shame too.
That area almost resembles a 3rd world country now more than anything else.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
This is another indication that something is shifting the faster you go. It is more noticeable because your covering more ground. It pretty obvious to me that a toe angle is changing as your moving. In some cars, this is normal but not drastic enough to cause problems, and manufacturers compensate by specs being toed in ( wheels slightly pointed inward) because as a vehicle moves forward most suspensions (at least ones with positive caster, which is almost every vehicle) try to force the wheels outward.
The obvious reason it's not showing up on the rack is because the vehicle is not moving. The tech needs to do his due diligence and check each component that would cause this problem. Things that need to be looked at have been mentioned but I'll mention them again. LCA bushings, Inner and outer tie rods, steering rack bushings, and the rear lateral control arm bushings.
One other thing, just because the specs are in the "green" doesn't mean it's right. This drives me absolutely crazy. For example the spec for our truck's caster angle is 1.7 to 3.3 degrees. Now if the left side is 1.7 and the right is 3.3 it will show as green but the cross caster is 1.6 degrees and the vehicles will pull to the side with the least amount of positive caster, which in this case would be to the left. I always trained guys to get the spec within .5 degrees or better on the cross caster and camber to eliminate pulling caused by those angles. Also, to compensate for road crown, you want to set your caster a little higher on the right side. Ideally, for our trucks, the front caster should be 2.8 degrees on the left side and 3.3 degrees on the right side.
Can you upload your alignment printout? That would help a lot. Good luck!
EDIT: I just saw your specs on a previous page. They look ok except for the cross caster (.7 degrees) and really should be pulling slightly to the left, which would make you want to turn the wheel to the right, on a flat surface, to compensate, which is what you said the problem is correct?
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