Alternator bearing replacement?

[Nelsonmd]

So I tightened my alternator pulley due to a nasty squeal, and it is now making horrifying grinding noises, so I need to get it fixed ASAP.

Has anyone just replaced the bearing rather than the whole alternator? I assume it's just the bearing that has gone out, and the bearing is about $10 as opposed to $120 for the crappiest alternator money can buy.

As much noise as it was making on the way to work, I'm not sure I'll get home at this rate...

 

[SilverRidgeRunner1]

I have a few times its not really all that hard to once u disassemble the alternator pressing out the bearing finding the correct size may be the hardest part of the job, I believe they sell rebuild kits on Rock auto that includes the bearing


Here is a visual

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah, I found a thread here where a guy listed a part number which is available on Amazon for $12 (6201NK). I may order that and see if I can rebuild the OEM one.

In the meantime, I just picked up el cheapo from advance with a $40 off coupon in case the current one goes and I have to replace it on the roadside... It only had a $24 core charge, so I still came out ahead even if I keep the OEM one.

 

[Drcoffee]

I replaced my alternator two years ago with the TYC 80A #270606216084 from rockauto. Its an OEM supplier and its brand new, not refurbished. $107 plus shipping

I'm sure you could bang out the old bearing and press in a new one if you feel comfortable getting the unit back together again.

 

[JayRolla]

I replaced my alternator two years ago with the TYC 80A #270606216084 from rockauto. Its an OEM supplier and its brand new, not refurbished. $107 plus shipping

I'm sure you could bang out the old bearing and press in a new one if you feel comfortable getting the unit back together again.

There is no such thing as an OEM supplied alternator from rockauto. It may be new, but its not OEM parts for $107.

If it was me get bearing OEM if possible. If not a used oem before any autostore crap. My stock alt has 260k miles on it. You can go through aftermarkets ones with a few years easy. Go OEM or go home. LOL.

 

[T4R2014]

TYC is not an OEM supplier. The factory unit is a Denso. TYC is known for substandard aftermarket parts.

 

[Drcoffee]

TYC is not an OEM supplier. The factory unit is a Denso. TYC is known for substandard aftermarket parts.

TYC Part # 213794 Click for more information about this part
{#270606216084} One of our most popular parts
w/ OE Manufacturer Denso; Amps: 80A; Pulley Type: w/ 4 Groove Pulley
Part Image
$106.79

 

[Drcoffee]

Go take it up with rockauto then.

There are so many uninformed know it alls around here.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1962912&cc=1357455

"100% brand new components inside & out, produced by an OE supplier and performance tested. Rotors, rectifiers, stators, regulators, and other components are built with durability and performance comparable to OE:
High temperature resistant & high RPM bearings
Durability-tested carbon brushes
H-class copper stator coil
High temperature soldered connection with silicone coating for waterproof protection
Premium quality regulators & rectifiers manufactured in Japan/USA, diodes 100% performance tested
Each unit ships with test report inside box"

 

[Drcoffee]

Anybody want to tell me what crow tastes like? Or are you going to just quietly slink back under the rock you came from.

 

[T4R2014]

So... the TYC is comparable to OE. The factory alternator is a Denso.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I have a legit used Toyota alternator for our truck, bought from a parts dealer, less than 100K miles on it; originally off a compatible Tacoma.

I bought it when I was having power issues but never used it.

I still have the receipt although the warranty has passed.

$75 + shipping and it is yours. Otherwise I will just keep for when mine finally goes.

 

[Doc2012]

Just do the CS144 swap and be done with it......lol

 

[Nelsonmd]

Ok, I don't want any personal attacks in my thread, so cut that crap out. Nothing in here deserved that.

I am confident that I can do the disassembly and reassembly myself, so I am going to order the bearing and try to rebuild, but in the meantime, I'm not sure if I'm going to make it to and from work tomorrow with the crazy grinding i am now getting from the thing. I may swapping the thing out on the side of the highway... I would have preferred to get a better one from rock auto or somewhere else, but I may not have time to wait for shipping.

I think I'll risk driving to work tomorrow, and change it out tomorrow evening. I'll let y'all know how the rebuild goes.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Soooo, major bummer...

 

[poleclimber63]

bummer!

Wow, that housing is really corroded! Hence the failure.... I've had several ALT's fail over the years, but only one bearing failure. Two with stator/rectifiers failures, and 3 with brushes (just replaced them!). In fact, the ALT out of my 4Runner failed after my engine replacement so I just dropped the JDM unit in. I replaced the brushes when I had the engine out so I expect the rectifier/reg failed...
When I went to the parts store when my alt went on the Corolla, and they quoted me $160 for a Bosch, I went to the wreckers and picked up OEM units for my Corolla and Mazda 626 (because I was there!) for $15 each, plus brush kits for each, for $28. Used both!

 

[Drcoffee]

The good news is...

Your bearings are fine.

The bad news is...

The guts of the alternator are rubbing the coil.

Are you a glass half empty or half full type of person?

 

[SilverRidgeRunner1]

I would say heck take it apart and have that mess welded but u have to draw the line in the sand somewhere. I would just replace it.

 

[Sherwood4Runner]

CS144 and call it good. Did it when my alternator went to crap. Never looked back.

 

[Nelsonmd]

The good news is...

Your bearings are fine.

The bad news is...

The guts of the alternator are rubbing the coil.

Are you a glass half empty or half full type of person?

I hope that isn't the case. I would think that if the stator were rubbing, I would have gotten some diminishing of performance, but I have been monitoring the voltage, and it was strong at 14.4V right up until I took it out last night. The new one is only reading 14.1-14.3V, so unsurprisingly, the cheapo alternator I bought out of desperation in't as good as OEM. Oh well. I didn't have time to wait for shipping.

I will definitely take it apart this weekend to confirm what ultimately failed. I peered into the crack and it looks like there is corrosion within the crack, so it may have been cracked for quite a while, which might suggest the bearing failed, hence the recent sudden downturn. The other possibility is that it cracked when I recently tightened the belt. We'll see what I find this weekend...

 

[nevada]

Soooo, major bummer...

you said that happened after adjusting the belt?
you over tightened it, or somehow damaged it in the process.

although, based on how that case looks, it may have failed on its own before too long anyway.