Alternator Brush Replacement Question...

Any reason to replace bearings and regulator? I would figure mine would be fine since it doesn't make any noise on it's own (bearings) and never had any voltage spikes (regulator).



Just get the brush holder assembly for your amp alt at the dealer. Was around 22 dollars I think. My 70a had a bad diode bridge (which was a bugger to locate)

Now that my rig is inspected it's time to put the repaired 70a in and see if the whine is gone and if it no longer falls on its face turning on the headlights.


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If you end up replacing, don't forget the cs144. I picked up a cs144 alt from amazon for $60 few years back. 140amp alternator that only needs 3 washers to install.

simple search found this at Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/NEW-Alte...6460&wl11=online&wl12=147418857&wl13=&veh=sem

I bought mine(ac-delco) open box from amazon for $60 shipped

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QBQJHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I forgot about the cs144. Thought about it a while ago when I upgraded my sound system, now I have an e-fan and I think that's why my alt failed since it pulls 20 amps. I might pick one up soon and have my old stocker as a backup. Thanks.
 
Another word of advice....if you own a Japan made motorcycle use your took kits Phillips screwdriver.

Don't use an American Phillips if you don't have to.


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Another word of advice....if you own a Japan made motorcycle use your took kits Phillips screwdriver.

Don't use an American Phillips if you don't have to.


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I have a bunch of different kinds of screwdrivers, so I'm sure one is up to the task. Thanks for the tip.
 
The Japan Phillips #2 is different than a USA #2.
To be more pedantic, there is no such thing as a Japanese Phillips screw/screwdriver. They are JIS cross-head fasteners. Just enough different to cause problems...

Phillips where DESIGNED to cam out to avoid over-torquing. JIS cross-head fasteners are designed to apply max torque (driver and fastener lock together better). A nice set of JIS cross-head screwdrivers will go a long way to avoiding problems on Japanese vehicles (cars/trucks/bikes), and they also work well on Phillips screws in other applications.

-Charlie
 
To be more pedantic, there is no such thing as a Japanese Phillips screw/screwdriver. They are JIS cross-head fasteners. Just enough different to cause problems...



Phillips where DESIGNED to cam out to avoid over-torquing. JIS cross-head fasteners are designed to apply max torque (driver and fastener lock together better). A nice set of JIS cross-head screwdrivers will go a long way to avoiding problems on Japanese vehicles (cars/trucks/bikes), and they also work well on Phillips screws in other applications.



-Charlie



Ok........


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I asked this question in my build/maintenance thread, but I thought I would also ask in a separate thread too.

My charging system stopped working properly yesterday and my ODB Fusion app that is connected to a VeePeak bluetooth odb2 reader indicated that my system was at about 11.3 volts and dropping.

I did a little research on t4r.org and watched Tim and Sean's brush holder replacement video and found that a lot of people replace the brushes rather than going with a whole new alternator. So, I pulled the alternator last night to see 1) what type of alternator I have and 2) to inspect the brushes. I found that I have a Denso and it might be the original. I also found the brushes to be severely worn down.

2VS9IEN.jpg


It looks like the style of my brush holder is different than most others I've seen. Here's the one I see referenced in most of the DIYs. It's part number 27370-75060.

31Bi9HKoVxL.jpg


When I do a parts search for my '97 V6 on camelback's site, it says I need part number 27371-70300 and it looks like it's just the brushes, not the brushes and the brush holder. I assume there's some soldering involved to install the brushes in the brush holder?

q5KEbj6.jpg


Does anyone know which would be the correct one for me to order?


Hi, I had the same type of alternator brush in my 97 4Runner 2wd at 239k.
It was super worn down.
The part# is 27370-35060.

I bought it from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo..._3?keywords=27370-35060&qid=1573858346&sr=8-3
 

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I used my very US screwdriver with a fresh bit. Worked great... I mean at the end of the day a screw is a screw.

No, they're not. Listen to Charlie. Keep using American Phillips drivers on JIS screws and you WILL strip them if it won't come out easy. Small ones are more dangerous. The little ones that hold the MAF in are VERY easy to strip this way. Ask me how I know.
 
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No, they're not. Listen to Charlie. Keep using American Phillips drivers on JIS screws and you WILL strip them if it won't come out easy. Small ones are more dangerous. The little ones that hold the MAF in are VERY easy to strip this way. Ask me how I know.

I finally broke down a while back and decided to get myself a JIS screwdriver. This is the one I bought for myself: https://amzn.to/31nlP0f
 
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That small set looks good. I think I might have to get myself one. Thanks for the suggestion.


If you have a motorcycle tool kit (Japan) the Phillips in them are the two sizes most common I’ve ran across.

Stripping Phillips heads with the wrong screwdriver sucks. Learned that years ago on my motorcycles. I also learned to have a good impact driver.


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Thanks for the tips shared in this thread! Same as others, started getting intermittent battery warning lights and would watch the voltage in my Ultragauge start dropping while it was illuminated. Ordered OEM through Amazon: Toyota Alternator Holder - 27370-35060 for my 1997 4Runner. $34 and half an hour and it's good as new again.

I just ordered the Vessel JIS set [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] shared. One of the holder screws almost stripped on me. :eek: Cheap insurance for the next sketchy screw.
 
Highly UNlikely that is a genuine part... but it will last for a while.

-Charlie

Yes I agree with Charlie. Rarely are amazon and ebay have genuine. The exceptions is when they are from actual dealers trying to get rid of old stock. Plus if the cost is extremely low you can almost guarantee they are counterfeit.

Another exception was in my case, when I many OEM parts for sale from a Camry I used to have that I could prove came from the dealer as I had the bags and they invoices showing they were original. Sold a pair of discontinued front dust shields this way. The purchaser was not only grateful I had a set as they were discontinued. I could prove they were oem with the invoice with them on it from a dealer as my Camry was totaled in an accident.

The last exception is members on eBay that have kits for sale. Members of forums have gotten and verified the parts are oem mfg or oem. You see folks say I bought this kit of of this member with many members agreeing that this person sales good parts.

That is about it.
 

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