Alternator Dead. 4 days after Warranty Ended.

[SR5Bart]

Weird that they want to charge diag on top of the repair. Usually if there is a diagnosis charge it gets applied towards the work being done if you chose to get it done. You would only pay diag once they give you an estimate on whatever is wrong and you say no.

 

[osideplayer]

Doesn't seem to bad to do it yourself

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8YQBWo7zN0&feature=youtu.be

 

[Jernik]

It's amazing how precise engineers can work! 4 Days past warranty - that's damn near perfect! Who at Toyota will step up and improve their part to fail at 3 days past?

Joking aside, that sucks OP. Hopefully it's just a freak failure of the alt and nothing else is underlying/contributing to the issue.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Not on a 5th gen, but the water pump started leaking on my 3rd gen at 181k.
It's due every 90k and was done on time the first time, so it was only 1k past due (for 180k).
I guess the engineers know what they're talking about with their replacement intervals.

OP, if you do decide to just DIY it, consider an LKQ replacement like this:
2015 Toyota 4Runner Alternator OEM 40K Miles (LKQ~214331915) | eBay
Factory OEM, 40k miles, $65 with a 6 month warranty.

I'm assuming the 2010 alternator matches the 2016.

I did one from LKQ for my wife's Sequoia and was pleased. Just don't expect the part to be clean.

 

[pointman]

It is unfortunate that it failed 4 days after the warranty ran out but Toyota should not be expected to pay for it now. Toyota said it would cover it up to the time stated on the contract and they did that.

Doesn't seem that anyone thinks Toyota is expected to pay for said claim.

 

[thennen]

It's been a while since I've posted. I've been low on funds to do fun stuff in the 4Runner, and it's been running perfectly.

Last week, I was out of town. When I returned, I had to have the 4Runner jumped, which was a bit of a surprise. Granted, it was cold, but I've never had an issue. I drove about 1/2 mile. The turn signals didn't work. That was odd. Then, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree, the audio screen blacked out and I limped back home to my driveway where the thing died.

I hoped it was a dead 3 year old OEM battery, but assumed it was something else.

I put the battery on a charger, and six hours later it was charged. The 4Runner fired right up, all systems GO except for the turn signals. (Hazard lights work, and the 15A fuse is not blown) - I also visually inspected the 140A Alternator fuse - looks solid.

Anyhow, the battery, fully charged, was at 12.7v right off the charger. When running, the battery dropped immediately to 12.4. I let it idle for a few minutes and it was down to 12.2. All accessories were turned off. So, pretty clearly there's no charge.

I looked at the Alternator. It looks like a pretty serious PITA to R&R the thing, so, thinking I was under warranty @ 32K miles, I called the dealer.

Dealer reminded me that I bought the vehicle on 10/3 of 2016, so Warranty is done and I can have it towed in and diagnosed for $140.00. I asked about the fact that it was sitting for 10 days prior. Tough nuts.

This certainly does not make me happy. I've made no mods in over 10,000 miles. The last thing done was dealer changed out a rodent eaten wiring harness a year and 8,000 miles ago. Not warranted (not expected)

I guess I'm *****ing and have a few questions:

1) Turn Signals? WTF there. Maybe something killed the relay?
2) Is swapping the alternator as bad as it looks from the engine compartment?
3) Is there a process to formally ***** about the warranty?
4) I was supremely unimpressed with the "Service Advisor" I got on the phone. He did not seem to understand or care. He just kept repeating that I'd have to pay $140 to have it diagnosed. He told me that at least 3 times.

It's scheduled at the dealer on Thursday - Kendall in Bend. I don't need this. As noted, finances have not been marvelous. I'd actually discussed an extended warranty, but money was tight and frankly, the thing was working so well, I didn't bother.

I am expecting to be reamed.

Thinking about this. 32000 miles is not enough to wear out the brushes. I typically replace those at 200,000. I would think the only thing left to fail is the voltage regulator. You should be able to replace both once you wrestle the alternator out. No way the entire alternator is bad, IMO. No clue what electrical mods you’ve done, but maybe something there, or more damaged wiring than first discovered? Have you checked for parasitic drain?

 

[motioneffects]

My alternator went out last year around this time on my 2011 @76k. I ordered a reman denso unit from Carid for $140. About an hour to r&r. If you are handy and have some basic tools, it should be fairly easy.

 

[shearn]

Very minor mods. Nothing weird all plug and play and nothing for 10k miles

I just got off phone with another service person they kept reminding me that I have to pay diagnostic no matter what.

Bye dealer

 

[progress4m]

Very minor mods. Nothing weird all plug and play and nothing for 10k miles

I just got off phone with another service person they kept reminding me that I have to pay diagnostic no matter what.

Bye dealer

I am not saying it is not a bad alternator, but two things you have mentioned (1. dealer changed out a rodent eaten wiring harness and 2. turn signals are not working) may be indicating that you have wiring issues…
Any signs of wire (s) damage… rodents?

 

[jmf_tracy]

Indeed. Mostly just *****ing. And *****ing about the tight access. I can change an alternator, but this one looks like I need stretch-armstrong arms.



And frankly the service advisor's attitude really surprised me. He was really unpleasant. A little less attitude would have been nice.This has zero to do with the warranty or the cost. The guy was just a prick.

Out of warranty, I'll be moving on.

Just do it yourself, it is not hard at all.
I will tell you one thing though:
Our alternators have an additional screw in the back that is difficult to reach.
In order to get to that screw you will need to remove the front driver's side wheel and use a bunch of extensions on your ratchet and come in from where the tire was. It took me a few minutes to realize that when i swapped out my OEM 130 amp alternator for a 250 amp alternator.

 

[Deep_palancar]

I'd do some diagnostics before making the leap to an alternator replacement.
First brush and clean the battery terminals and check the ground lug.

I'm not sure what 15A. fuse you are referring to. Check the 7.5 IG1 in the foot-well box and the 7.5 Alt S in the engine bay box.

Then eliminate the battery as a problem. Any parts store can load test it. A failed battery may take a charge and show a good no load voltage but not have enough storage to function under load.

Amp. clamp the B lead and see what's coming out of the alternator.

If you've got to pay someone to fix it, I'd take my chances on a mercy coverage from Toyota if it's really a failed alternator.

 

[shearn]

I went ahead and went three deep at the dealership, just for fun. No coverage, and they won't cover it (warranty) if they don't diagnose it. So, in otherwords, if I want them to do it, I pay the diagnosis charge.

The alternator has zero output. Maybe voltage regulator, but either way the thing has to come out.

Now, do I upgrade or not?

 

[gp55445]

I'd fo, but that's just me...

 

[Cndnmax]

Just call the corporate customer service line and ask for a goodwill repair.

The headliner on my VW started peeling a couple months out of warranty with very low miles and I ended up getting a completely free replacement. Corporate will call the dealership and ask them if they think it should be covered and whether or not they want to do the work. It helps to have a dealership that will back you.
6months later I found out they damaged the wiring for some of the dome lights when they swapped it. Called corporate and got that fixed for free as well.
Hopefully Toyota would be just as helpful.

 

[Grug556]

87 :flock:

 

[Bjohnson425]

87 :flock:

 

[og556]

@OP did you FO?

This happened because you put beans in your chili.

 

[catrains]

I went ahead and went three deep at the dealership, just for fun. No coverage, and they won't cover it (warranty) if they don't diagnose it. So, in otherwords, if I want them to do it, I pay the diagnosis charge.

The alternator has zero output. Maybe voltage regulator, but either way the thing has to come out.

Now, do I upgrade or not?

I am no Toyota runner expert .. I do know a load of info on 40yrs with GM electrical systems and other electronic work on transportation vehicles. bought my 2016 runner in july 2016 .. have had no problems with it ..

WHAT I FOUND IN THE SCHEMATICS IS THE IG1 FUSE 7.5AMPS FEEDS THE ALTERNATOR REGULATOR AND THE TURN SIGNAL ASSY .. CHECK THAT FUSE.
RODENT WIRE DAMAGE OR A LAMP BLEW OUT .. POST BACK HOPE THIS WILL SAVE YOU $$$.

 

[DeltaWhiskey]

I am no Toyota runner expert .. I do know a load of info on 40yrs with GM electrical systems and other electronic work on transportation vehicles. bought my 2016 runner in july 2016 .. have had no problems with it ..



WHAT I FOUND IN THE SCHEMATICS IS THE IG1 FUSE 7.5AMPS FEEDS THE ALTERNATOR REGULATOR AND THE TURN SIGNAL ASSY .. CHECK THAT FUSE.

RODENT WIRE DAMAGE OR A LAMP BLEW OUT .. POST BACK HOPE THIS WILL SAVE YOU $$$.

[MENTION=147062]shearn[/MENTION] did you read this???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shearn]

[MENTION=147062]shearn[/MENTION] did you read this???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well damn. Yup, I just did. Lol, I'll call tomorrow.